Should I just replace the wiring?
#1
Should I just replace the wiring?
2012 Sahara. I bought the jeep a year ago, and have had problems on and off. I replaced the rocker arms/lifters, that solved my tick. I then had some codes that lead me to replacing the oil pressure sensor and the coolant temp sensor. Everything was fine, until some washboard road caused the radiator fan to blow as hard as possible, the RPM to be limited, long turning over to start the engine, no reading to the temp guage, CEL, throttle control warning light (two red lines with a red lightning bolt between them), and the traction control light were all on solid. Long story about throwing parts at a problem to no avail short, I discovered the wiring to the coolant temp sensor was 2 strands from being fully severed. I replaced the wiring lead, and that has been the fix for 7 months.
While on an easy dirt road with my son, the Jeep went into that same "limp" mode with dash lights. Throwing these codes:
0345 - Camshaft position sensor A circuit bank 2
0390 - Camshaft position sensor B circuit bank 2
0113 - Intake air temp sensor 1 circuit high
0523 - Engine oil pressure sensor/switch high
0340 - Camshaft position sensor 1 or single sensor
06DA - I think this one is an oil pressure control circuit error
0198 - Engine oil temp sensor high
0118 - Engine coolant temp sensor 1 circuit high
0108 - Manifold absolute pressure/barometric pressure circuit high
0365 - Camshaft position sensor B circuit bank 1
0304 - Cylinder 4 misfire
060E - Throttle Pedal Position Sensor Low Input
This all seems to me like there is a wiring issue going on, so I've been tracking down wiring that looks especially bad at the connectors, and replacing them. In this process I discovered a leaky oil cooler and replaced it with an aluminum one. After hours of butt connectors and multiple dis/reassemblies, I get the same behavior, same codes (yes, I cleared them). I even get that list of codes with the key in accessory. I'm at a complete loss, as I've replaced so many bits of wiring, so many sensors, I've checked grounding straps, and I wonder if I need to just replace all the wiring in the engine, or replace the PCM maybe?
Thanks for any help you can offer!
While on an easy dirt road with my son, the Jeep went into that same "limp" mode with dash lights. Throwing these codes:
0345 - Camshaft position sensor A circuit bank 2
0390 - Camshaft position sensor B circuit bank 2
0113 - Intake air temp sensor 1 circuit high
0523 - Engine oil pressure sensor/switch high
0340 - Camshaft position sensor 1 or single sensor
06DA - I think this one is an oil pressure control circuit error
0198 - Engine oil temp sensor high
0118 - Engine coolant temp sensor 1 circuit high
0108 - Manifold absolute pressure/barometric pressure circuit high
0365 - Camshaft position sensor B circuit bank 1
0304 - Cylinder 4 misfire
060E - Throttle Pedal Position Sensor Low Input
This all seems to me like there is a wiring issue going on, so I've been tracking down wiring that looks especially bad at the connectors, and replacing them. In this process I discovered a leaky oil cooler and replaced it with an aluminum one. After hours of butt connectors and multiple dis/reassemblies, I get the same behavior, same codes (yes, I cleared them). I even get that list of codes with the key in accessory. I'm at a complete loss, as I've replaced so many bits of wiring, so many sensors, I've checked grounding straps, and I wonder if I need to just replace all the wiring in the engine, or replace the PCM maybe?
Thanks for any help you can offer!
#2
Welcome to the Forum Given all your efforts and repairs, IMO going after an engine wiring harness would be the 1st choice, Call Salvage Yards and get Availability and Price before the PCM.. Have seen on TV shows companies that also sell wiring harness; that might be worth investigating. Good luck and keep the forum updated on your success. FYI.. for our 13 manual trans is below: IF IT IS Still Available from Mopar
Wiring, Engine Chrysler Usage: JEEP - 4WD [J]; SPORT UTILITY 2-DR TYPE #2 [72], SPORT UTILITY 4-DR TYPE #4 [74]; 3.6L V6 24V VVT Engine [ERB]; 6-Speed Manual NSG370 Transmission [DEH]; X86 Callout: 1 –List Price: $2,870.00
#3
This is an absolute shot in the dark, but considering the slew of issues that are all likely electrical, have you pulled the fuse box (TIPM) up and just checked all the connections at the bottom of that? it's a real hassle cuz there's hardly no room to work with, but that is the one location all these wiring harnesses have in common. it might be worth pulling that, disconnecting the harnesses, just doing quick general inspection and reconnecting. it could also be a massive waste of time, but who knows. if you do go that route, know that the plastic tabs that SHOULD push the harness out of the connection almost always break at their plastic hinges. you can still get them out carefully though. don't go thinking if you replace those harnesses that it's any better. LOL. I replaced 2 with replacements from Mak's and THEY broke the first time I tired to remove them too. smh.
I'd say it's a low probability to find anything wrong there, but it's also "free" to check.
I'd say it's a low probability to find anything wrong there, but it's also "free" to check.
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MuffinChunk (10-13-2024)
#4
This is an absolute shot in the dark, but considering the slew of issues that are all likely electrical, have you pulled the fuse box (TIPM) up and just checked all the connections at the bottom of that? it's a real hassle cuz there's hardly no room to work with, but that is the one location all these wiring harnesses have in common. it might be worth pulling that, disconnecting the harnesses, just doing quick general inspection and reconnecting. it could also be a massive waste of time, but who knows. if you do go that route, know that the plastic tabs that SHOULD push the harness out of the connection almost always break at their plastic hinges. you can still get them out carefully though. don't go thinking if you replace those harnesses that it's any better. LOL. I replaced 2 with replacements from Mak's and THEY broke the first time I tired to remove them too. smh.
I'd say it's a low probability to find anything wrong there, but it's also "free" to check.
I'd say it's a low probability to find anything wrong there, but it's also "free" to check.