ddh

Am in the middle of replacing front drive shaft with this one from Adams:

https://www.extremeterrain.com/adams...8-wrangle.html

The front yoke nut is stubborn - impact driver wont get it to budge, tried everything. one to the transfer case came loose without nearly as much trouble. Any suggestions beyond seeking a more powerful impact driver?

Thx in advance.

Sixty4x4

What I do is have one wheel off the ground so it can turn, put a large pipe wrench on the yoke so that it contacts the ground or a board. Then I rotate the yoke and pipe wrench till it contacts the ground and use a breaker bar on the nut. Of course you chock the rear wheels. Worked for me. Be careful around the seal unless you are replaciing it and put a thin film of grease on the sealing surface of the new yoke. I did this on the rear with new seal and no oil leaks 2.5 years later. When you torque back up don't go too high to the point where you will crush the crush sleeve more or you are looking at a diff setup again. I simply went to 105lbs/ft and used blue loctite on the threads. Again 2.5 years later and no issues. Also don't drive after torquing for at least overnight in order to let the loctite dry.

resharp001

Milwaukee M18 1/2" high torque impact has always been my solution to those things.

XJRefugee

A 1/2 inch drive breaker bar may be not strong enough when using with a cheater bar. I suggest a 3/4inch drive breaker bar with a long cheater bar(tube) that fits over the end of breaker bar .Arrange yourself under your rig so that you are pulling the cheater towards you when lying on your back (passenger side) - at least till you break torque. Don't use adapters if possible (safety). I have never had much luck with crush sleeves and if any opportunity arises I will replace with solid shim, works better for me. Good advise from Sixty4x4 not to torque so much as to start crushing the sleeve again. Its a one and done type of deal. Just pay attention to the pinion for awhile (after your are finished) to see how it seals up or any unusual wear.

Sixty4x4

Actually XR raises a good point - Dana 44's are not really strong but they are not weak. A solid spacer and shim setup on the pinion bearing makes the diff withstand some much higher torque. What happens in extreme situations of wheeling requiring immense torque on the diff is the sleeve will actually crush further (bit like retightening the pinion nut too much) and make the pinion gear "walk" away from the ring gear which makes the diff explode. This all happens fairly quickly. The spacer prevents this but does not make the gears stronger. But the sleeve makes the diff a platform for those that drive carefully with 37's on IMO. Still does not replace D60/80's though.

Junkyard junkie

IMHO replacing the pinion yoke without removing the carrier is a huge mistake. You will never get the pinion preload correct, even if you get the pinion nut exactly in the same place. The slightest difference in the two yokes will make a huge difference in the preload.
Reason for removing the carrier is so you can check preload as you tighten the yoke. And you will need to replace the crush sleeve, unless you have spacers. If you already have spacers then it's all good.
If you haven't already got the nut off and don't have spacers, I wouldn't do it.
Out of curiosity why is it necessary to remove the yoke? Will the new DS not fit the yoke already there?

On a side note I just got this impact. It is not the big name, super high dollar one, but will get the job done.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

XJRefugee

Junkyard you are correct there is a risk in retorquing the pinion nut . However, it is a fairly accepted method and if you move slow and deliberate you can get it done "good -E-nuff" . You have quoted proper method but there is always another way. I have a couple of Aircat air tools and find them to be of great value. High RPM and strong torque.

Sixty4x4

Hey Junkyard I agree with you but what I did was use my inch/pound torque wrench on the pinion nut prior to undoing it and measured the breakaway torque then retorqued back to the same setting. Was a bitch though to adapt up to 1/2" drive but like I said - over 2 years later no leaks, overheating at the diff or vibrations. I was a bit simple on my explanation earlier on but it turned out to be 105ft/lbs on the nut to get the same breakaway setting.