Dana 30 Beefing
10-22-2019, 08:42 AM
#1
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Dana 30 Beefing
Context:
So I have a stock JK Sport with the front Dana 30 and am going up to 35s and a 3.5 in lift. I run trails in Michigan so nothing too hard or intense. In the spring I am planning on getting a regear and locker install.
Question:
Will trussing and upgrading axle shafts be enough to strengthen the Dana 30 with 35s or should I just upgrade to a Dana 44/try to find one from a Rubicon?
Really wish I would've gotten a rubicon to start with haha
So I have a stock JK Sport with the front Dana 30 and am going up to 35s and a 3.5 in lift. I run trails in Michigan so nothing too hard or intense. In the spring I am planning on getting a regear and locker install.
Question:
Will trussing and upgrading axle shafts be enough to strengthen the Dana 30 with 35s or should I just upgrade to a Dana 44/try to find one from a Rubicon?
Really wish I would've gotten a rubicon to start with haha
10-22-2019, 08:57 AM
#2
Super Moderator
If you're not doing anything hard or intense then why waste money for a locker? I've been on 35's for a while with very little added to my d30 but I also treat it though I've added very little. Upgraded all steering, heavy duty ball joints, C gussets (because they were cool at the time) and lower control arm bracket skids because I've seen them taco'd quickly.
The other response you'll get a lot of is "why the 3.5 lift with 35's?" and it's accurate, is there a reason you're looking at 3.5" lifts?
The other response you'll get a lot of is "why the 3.5 lift with 35's?" and it's accurate, is there a reason you're looking at 3.5" lifts?
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nick160225 (10-22-2019)
10-22-2019, 09:37 AM
#3
JK Jedi
I've been down this road. IMO, C gussets are the best thing on the D30 or even Rubi 44 axles, and some lower control arm skids are nice too as they get scraped up. A truss and/or sleeves ain't worth the money. I'd rather put that money into good ball joints. In regards to locker and regearing....you need to know you'll never get your money back out of that axle. If you're ok with that, sure, regear and lock it. You've got an '11 with the 3.8L, so I'm guessing you're going to be looking around 5.13 gearing....just know those teeth are getting smaller and smaller on that pinion and that's going to be one of the larger weak points when locked.
We all have different wheeling styles. Have you wheeled that jeep pretty good and run across things where lockers would have made the difference, or are lockers just something you think you might need? Nobody will ever say locking a D30 is worthwhile, but I also understand many people can't pony up for a PR44 or put money in to a Rubicon axle that isn't monumentally better. If you're ok with a non-selectable locker and can keep the cost down, might be worth the fun times. That D30 isn't going to crumble like a toothpick, but you need to keep the costs in check.
We all have different wheeling styles. Have you wheeled that jeep pretty good and run across things where lockers would have made the difference, or are lockers just something you think you might need? Nobody will ever say locking a D30 is worthwhile, but I also understand many people can't pony up for a PR44 or put money in to a Rubicon axle that isn't monumentally better. If you're ok with a non-selectable locker and can keep the cost down, might be worth the fun times. That D30 isn't going to crumble like a toothpick, but you need to keep the costs in check.
The following users liked this post:
nick160225 (10-22-2019)
10-22-2019, 09:40 AM
#4
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
If you're not doing anything hard or intense then why waste money for a locker? I've been on 35's for a while with very little added to my d30 but I also treat it though I've added very little. Upgraded all steering, heavy duty ball joints, C gussets (because they were cool at the time) and lower control arm bracket skids because I've seen them taco'd quickly.
The other response you'll get a lot of is "why the 3.5 lift with 35's?" and it's accurate, is there a reason you're looking at 3.5" lifts?
The other response you'll get a lot of is "why the 3.5 lift with 35's?" and it's accurate, is there a reason you're looking at 3.5" lifts?
10-22-2019, 09:44 AM
#5
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
I've been down this road. IMO, C gussets are the best thing on the D30 or even Rubi 44 axles, and some lower control arm skids are nice too as they get scraped up. A truss and/or sleeves ain't worth the money. I'd rather put that money into good ball joints. In regards to locker and regearing....you need to know you'll never get your money back out of that axle. If you're ok with that, sure, regear and lock it. You've got an '11 with the 3.8L, so I'm guessing you're going to be looking around 5.13 gearing....just know those teeth are getting smaller and smaller on that pinion and that's going to be one of the larger weak points when locked.
We all have different wheeling styles. Have you wheeled that jeep pretty good and run across things where lockers would have made the difference, or are lockers just something you think you might need? Nobody will ever say locking a D30 is worthwhile, but I also understand many people can't pony up for a PR44 or put money in to a Rubicon axle that isn't monumentally better. If you're ok with a non-selectable locker and can keep the cost down, might be worth the fun times. That D30 isn't going to crumble like a toothpick, but you need to keep the costs in check.
We all have different wheeling styles. Have you wheeled that jeep pretty good and run across things where lockers would have made the difference, or are lockers just something you think you might need? Nobody will ever say locking a D30 is worthwhile, but I also understand many people can't pony up for a PR44 or put money in to a Rubicon axle that isn't monumentally better. If you're ok with a non-selectable locker and can keep the cost down, might be worth the fun times. That D30 isn't going to crumble like a toothpick, but you need to keep the costs in check.
10-22-2019, 09:47 AM
#6
JK Jedi
Based on your response to Karl, I think the rear end is more viable in the longer run and not going to be money thrown away like the front would be. Know that building towards 37s can run up to ~$10k. Sounds like a lot, but start breaking it down and you can see how easily it is to get there.
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nick160225 (10-22-2019)
10-22-2019, 09:53 AM
#7
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Based on your response to Karl, I think the rear end is more viable in the longer run and not going to be money thrown away like the front would be. Know that building towards 37s can run up to ~$10k. Sounds like a lot, but start breaking it down and you can see how easily it is to get there.
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10-22-2019, 09:58 AM
#8
JK Jedi
Well, a Rubicon isn't the end all be all so don't feel too bad. Outside of the transfer case, you'd be replacing about the same things. You'd still have to regear, and rubi lockers aren't the most reliable in the long run.
10-22-2019, 10:05 AM
#9
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
What type of locker should I go with? I was thinking an e-locker bc it seems more straightforward and I don't really want to do an air locker bc I don't want to install a compressor and that just sounds like a rabbit hole of expenses. And from what I've heard from hearsay it seems like auto lockers can be equally effective and ineffective. But I also heard there is like a kind where you just like twist a knob on your diff that locks up the axle? I couldn't find a name of that one.
10-22-2019, 10:54 AM
#10
JK Enthusiast
Originally Posted by nick160225
I don't want to install a compressor and that just sounds like a rabbit hole of expenses..