New member. New to jeeps. ? On lifts for a 2010 jk 4 door
#12
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Make pavement life easier how is that? Again I’m learning about these jk’s
i contacted rough country asking if I needed anything else with the lift I purchased. . An I was told nothing else is needed. No control arms,track bar, anything. I know they are just customer service or sales rep. But are the brackets and or control arms absolutely needed. If so I don’t mind purchasing them. Just don’t want to spend money where it isn’t needed or going to gain annything unless I have to.
i contacted rough country asking if I needed anything else with the lift I purchased. . An I was told nothing else is needed. No control arms,track bar, anything. I know they are just customer service or sales rep. But are the brackets and or control arms absolutely needed. If so I don’t mind purchasing them. Just don’t want to spend money where it isn’t needed or going to gain annything unless I have to.
#13
JK Jedi
if you're just using that thing as a hunting rig, whatever, no. you can build an awesome rock crawler and ignore most stuff that other jeeps have to focus on cuz it's gonna be moving 15mph off road only, so nothing on the pavement matters, if that makes sense. If you're using that for hunting and getting to/from hunting locations off the pavement, none of it matters. if you're using it as a DD, or you're driving hours on the pavement to get to where you're going on long hunting trips, then it starts to matter a bit more......but if you threw a set of 2.5" spring, shocks, and 4 little brack line drop brackets on it and nothing else, you're far from control arm brackets being some magic component.
I still can't quite figure why you think those 4 springs and 4 shocks you bought are better than what you had on there to start with. money would have been better spent on a couple different components. what you purchased is literally not going to make any difference at all performance wise. if anything, might net you a bit more lift which will make your front driveshaft angle at the transfer case steeper. What i think doesn't matter though.
not sure what backspace those wheels have but you're going to want 4.5" BS, 5" at a minimum, for 35s. you may need to get some wheel adapters if you have clearance issues at full turn or with tires stuffed in the wheel well.
here's the logic in flattening control arm angles. excuse the rudimentary sketch. when you lift, the control arm angles get steeper. when you hit bumps or potholes or things in the road, the forces are more jarring as they are transferred up into the frame at that steep angle. when you can flatten them out more the control arms are able to transfer that energy into the frame in a bit more comfortable manner. the bigger thing however is control arm brackets also allow you to rotate that axle back and raise your caster, which has a significant impact on the quality of your steering. if you don't understand caster, there are all sorts of YouTube videos with good explanations. The bicycle examples are the best cuz they are simple things and it is easy to see the huge difference changing the angle of the front forks (caster angle) makes to the rideability of the bike.
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D.cain83 (08-21-2024)
#14
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Yes the jeep will be used for hunting. No massive articulation or flexing it. and it’s not my dd but i will cruise in it some the kids like it !!!
I’m looking at buying wheels for it now. With the minimum of 4.5 backspacing .
even with the 2.5 lift caster correction is needed.
#1 drop bracket being the easier cheaper way
#2 adjustable control arms being lil more expensive an longer to install. But better of the 2 options
#3 now that I need the caster correction which is better for my application bracket/adjustabkes or is it just personal preference?
#4 will the rear need anything to correct pinion angle?
#5 will the axles be off center enough to need track bars to correct them. Or will it be fine. With the lift.
I do want it to drive a ride descent well overall be safe since my children will be in it also at times.
I believe I’ve made a mistake buying the rc lift but I’m going to run with it a see how i like it. I can always change it out later to something else.
I’m looking at buying wheels for it now. With the minimum of 4.5 backspacing .
even with the 2.5 lift caster correction is needed.
#1 drop bracket being the easier cheaper way
#2 adjustable control arms being lil more expensive an longer to install. But better of the 2 options
#3 now that I need the caster correction which is better for my application bracket/adjustabkes or is it just personal preference?
#4 will the rear need anything to correct pinion angle?
#5 will the axles be off center enough to need track bars to correct them. Or will it be fine. With the lift.
I do want it to drive a ride descent well overall be safe since my children will be in it also at times.
I believe I’ve made a mistake buying the rc lift but I’m going to run with it a see how i like it. I can always change it out later to something else.
#15
JK Jedi
on the 4dr wheelbase, that rear DS angle is more accommodating. with a CV joint at both ends the rear pinion angle isn't near as important as the front. what happens in the front is the boot that protects the CV joint at the TC side will rip, spew grease under the tub, and allow the joint to dry out. you'll hear the common clicking and you'll see the line of grease under the tub. this is just a thing. seen it happen on jeeps that haven't left pavement even. doesn't mean it WILL happen to you ever, but it could so just be aware. if you ever do hear some clicking from the DS you have a plenty of time to get it addressed. It's not an urgent thing.
if you like the wheels on it, there is nothing wrong with a quality set of adapters like a spidertrax that would allow you to fit the tire you want. saves a lot of money over different wheels. you may just want a different look though, idk.
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D.cain83 (08-21-2024)
#16
JK Newbie
Thread Starter
Thanks for all the info. I will get the bracket a drive it like u mentioned a see how it goes.
The wheels I’m going to order some pro comp series 1069 wheels in 17x9 with the back spacing.
eventually I will get all the proper parts for a comfortable ride.
idk this jeep thing was so expensive an a bad bug to get.. it all started out wanting a 2500-3500 dollar hunting rig nothing fancy. But yet here I am now. I’ve owned the jeep maybe 3 weeks. So if I sound very uneducated with jeeps it’s because I am lol.
are the Hooke off-road bumper an step bars any good .
The wheels I’m going to order some pro comp series 1069 wheels in 17x9 with the back spacing.
eventually I will get all the proper parts for a comfortable ride.
idk this jeep thing was so expensive an a bad bug to get.. it all started out wanting a 2500-3500 dollar hunting rig nothing fancy. But yet here I am now. I’ve owned the jeep maybe 3 weeks. So if I sound very uneducated with jeeps it’s because I am lol.
are the Hooke off-road bumper an step bars any good .
#17
JK Jedi
when it comes to steps or rocker "bars" you have 2 different things. you have things that are hardcore "sliders" which are beefy, high quality, and expensive protection for those that play in big rocks and do technical offroading, and then there is everything else. In the "everything else" category, quality is all about the same, primarily a functional step with various aesthetics that are subjective to the owner. I'd put Hooke right there with "everything else", but for what your use that is just fine. I would just pick something that you like the look of and you find priced to your liking. Certainly not saying that the "everything else" category will crumble if hit on something, but typically they are thinner wall tubes that will take a dent if come down hard on a rock. you might even check facebook marketplace or craigslist around you. nothing wrong with 2nd hand if it fits the bill.
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D.cain83 (08-22-2024)