So after owning my jk for 7 months I couldn't wait to get some wider wheels an tire. So I went with 33 12.50 17s before I put them on I did notice the jeep not driving at all like a new one ( its a 2013 with 50,000 miles) turns out the junk stock TRE's were shot replaced with moog then came teraflex 2 inch level kit looks lots better thought it would help get rid of walk nope. Any proven solutions to correct this problem also has play in steering wheel before lift and tired as well Was thinking of buying a teraflex track bar but don't know if it would help my problem since I'm not lifted that much any ideas??

 

I recommend checking to see if all your suspension bolts are torqued to spec at ride height. The bolts should have been loosened when the lift was put in. Then tightened at ride height.

How off center are your axles?

 

When you go to a 12.50" wide tire, even with the tightest of steering parts you are going to get pull. Are you sure that your not getting the normal "wide tire pull" that follows the road contours and pulls you left and right?

 

I guess that could be some of it the roads are pretty bad with ruts from trucks. Next time I get on some good pavement I will see how it handles. So how do I get the play out of the steering wheel?

 

The wheels and tires I put on are very heavy so is a different beast. I will just have to adjust I guess. How would I check if the axles are out of wack?

 

You have to first determine what part or parts are worn.


You will need to get someone to sit in the jeep with it running, and gently turn the steering back and forth (just a few inches: just enough to make the front tires wiggle a little bit). While they are doing this, crawl under the front end and watch your steering components, tie rod, and drag link, and look to see what has play. You said you replaced the tie rod ends, assuming these are the ends on the tie rod, I would suspect the rod ends on the drag link (sometimes also referred to as tie rod ends) are shot as well.

Whether you find play here or not, move on to checking the ball joints and wheel bearings. You'll need a floor jack (or jack of some sort to lift one front wheel at a time) and a medium to large pry bar. Cut off the jeep, put on the hand brake and jack up one front wheel at a time. Grab the tire and try to wiggle it (like it turns when you turn the wheel). Any movement in this direction means you need new wheel bearings. Next put the pry bar under the tire, and have a friend gently pry upward against the tire. While they do this take a look at your ball joints. Any movement in the ball joint (up or down) means you ball joints are shot.

The only remaining thing that could have play is the steering box itself. The easiest way I know to check this is the jack up the front drivers tire and remove the tire/wheel. With the Jeep turned off, reach past the inner fender liner, and grab the steering column, twist the steering column back and forth (like turning the wheel) right where it goes into the steering box. While doing this take a look at the pitman arm, any amount that you can turn the steering column without it turning the pitman arm is considered play. Some play in the steering box is normal. Most people never replace their steering box, it will last forever, but will slowly develop more and more play as the miles stack up. How much play you can tolerate is a personal preference. The wider tires will make this play more apparent, that's just how it is. You can buy a replacement box, exchange yours for a rebuilt replacement, or pay to have yours rebuilt.

How this helps.

Happy Jeeping.

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The stock track bar will have some flex with the wider tires, replacing it with a more sturdy adjustable tack bar will remove a little bit of the side to side sway when hitting bumps and ruts in the road. Whether it is a noticeable amount depends on your lift and tire size and weight.

Watch the video on the Teraflex website that demonstrates replacing the stock track bar with their version. It shows the axle shift I am describing. I wouldn't think it would be nearly as dramatic with 33in tires though.

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Thanks for all the post! This all helps to give me a clear idea what to do I checked the trackbar vid. Really helped explain what you are talking about. I have yet to change ball joints after 50xxx mile I'm sure the stockers are bad thinking about ordering some any ideas?

 

I've got just shy of 80,000 miles on mine, and they are still good. I wheel in the rocks about 3 times a year. I would check them before you replace. Unless you just really want to replace them. Good ones will run you around $200 - $250 bucks for a set.

Most people go with Synergy (at least on this forum), but there are a few other good ones out there. I will replace with Synergy whenever mine go bad.

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