Yukon Hardcore Hubs installation
08-04-2014 | 07:05 AM
#1
Thread Starter
JK Freak
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 928
Likes: 0
From: Victorville Ca
Yukon Hardcore Hubs installation
With the Jk's production run coming to an end there are a lot more people taking the plunge and installing junkyard axles in their rigs. On my rig I went with a 1979 Ford Dana 60 Kingpin axle. It's a great donor axle but as with everything it has its weaknesses. Ford went with a necked down 30 spline outer shaft and well they just cant handle a ton of abuse. To address two of the key weak areas I'll be installing Yukons Hardcore locking hubs along with Yukons 35 spline outer shafts.
Here are a few reasons why I felt Yukon is a much better choice than Warn:
Yukon
· Lifetime Warranty
· Low profile design to reduce impact with obstacles
· All steel construction, with 4130 chromoly internals for added strength
· Only 1/3 turn needed to engage
· Defaults to locked position in the event of failure.
Warn
· Lifetime Warranty (used over and over again due to failures)
· Metal and plastic construction, with aluminum internals
· 9/10 turn needed to engage
· Does not default to locked position when failure
The install of these two products is pretty straight forward.
As with any install make sure you raise and support your Jeep safely.
Next your going to remove the wheel on the side you are going to be working on. and drain the gear fluid.
This is a great time to check your front differential for any odd wear or possible chipped teeth.
Next your going to remove your brake caliper and place it up out of the way. DO NOT LET THE CALIPER HANG BY THE BRAKE LINE!
Once you have your caliper up and out of the way now its time for the fun part!
Remove the 6 small Allen bolts that hold the old locking hub in.
Once the bolts are removed all you have to do is lightly pull and the unit will pop off. Be careful as there is a spring and a small gear that will pop out once the cover is removed. With the cover removed and the other parts placed to the side your hub should resemble this. For the next step you need to remove the snap ring on the axle shaft as well as the full circle retaining clip on the outer edge of the hub. Once those two clips are removed I find the easiest way to pull the rest of the locking hub is to thread two of the bolts back into the portion that's left and give them a slight tug and it should pop right out.
Now if your not upgrading you outer shafts or perhaps you already have at this point your ready to install your new locking hubs. For this write up we need to go deeper and change the outer shafts as well.
You need to remove the spindle nuts in order to pull the hub off.
Make sure you take note in the order they come off so you know how to put them back. This is also a great time to inspect your wheel bearings and repack if needed or replace.
Once the spindle nuts are off you will be able to remove the entire Hub/Rotor assembly from the spindle. Remove the 5 nuts that hold the spindle to the knuckle to gain access to the axle shaft.
Withe the spindle removed go ahead and slide your axle shaft out being cautious not to damage the inner axle seals.
Now its time to replace the outer shafts and u-joints. I plan on using Yukons super joints when I upgrade the inner shafts later on but for now I choose to go with Spicer U-joints until then.
Here are a few reasons why I felt Yukon is a much better choice than Warn:
Yukon
· Lifetime Warranty
· Low profile design to reduce impact with obstacles
· All steel construction, with 4130 chromoly internals for added strength
· Only 1/3 turn needed to engage
· Defaults to locked position in the event of failure.
Warn
· Lifetime Warranty (used over and over again due to failures)
· Metal and plastic construction, with aluminum internals
· 9/10 turn needed to engage
· Does not default to locked position when failure
The install of these two products is pretty straight forward.
As with any install make sure you raise and support your Jeep safely.
Next your going to remove the wheel on the side you are going to be working on. and drain the gear fluid.
This is a great time to check your front differential for any odd wear or possible chipped teeth.
Next your going to remove your brake caliper and place it up out of the way. DO NOT LET THE CALIPER HANG BY THE BRAKE LINE!
Once you have your caliper up and out of the way now its time for the fun part!
Remove the 6 small Allen bolts that hold the old locking hub in.
Once the bolts are removed all you have to do is lightly pull and the unit will pop off. Be careful as there is a spring and a small gear that will pop out once the cover is removed. With the cover removed and the other parts placed to the side your hub should resemble this. For the next step you need to remove the snap ring on the axle shaft as well as the full circle retaining clip on the outer edge of the hub. Once those two clips are removed I find the easiest way to pull the rest of the locking hub is to thread two of the bolts back into the portion that's left and give them a slight tug and it should pop right out.
Now if your not upgrading you outer shafts or perhaps you already have at this point your ready to install your new locking hubs. For this write up we need to go deeper and change the outer shafts as well.
You need to remove the spindle nuts in order to pull the hub off.
Make sure you take note in the order they come off so you know how to put them back. This is also a great time to inspect your wheel bearings and repack if needed or replace.
Once the spindle nuts are off you will be able to remove the entire Hub/Rotor assembly from the spindle. Remove the 5 nuts that hold the spindle to the knuckle to gain access to the axle shaft.
Withe the spindle removed go ahead and slide your axle shaft out being cautious not to damage the inner axle seals.
Now its time to replace the outer shafts and u-joints. I plan on using Yukons super joints when I upgrade the inner shafts later on but for now I choose to go with Spicer U-joints until then.
08-04-2014 | 07:05 AM
#2
Thread Starter
JK Freak
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 928
Likes: 0
From: Victorville Ca
Here is a shot of the new outer shafts married to the inners.
Now you just have to put it all back together.
Slide your Axle shafts back into the housing.
Reinstall your spindle, Hub/Rotor assembly. Make sure you properly set the bearing pre-load on your wheel bearings.
Now its time to install the new locking hubs.
You want to start by installing the spring retainer first. Take note that its very important you install it the right way. The flat Side needs to be facing out.
This is a shot of the inner portion of the ring. Make sure it goes toward the inside of the hub.
Installed it should look like this.
Now is a good time to put a good coat of grease on the axle splines and the splines of the hub.
Take your spring and place it in the hub and compress it a few times to make sure it clears everything. Id does not matter what direction you install the spring.
Take some of your grease and coat the spacer and slide it onto the splines of the axle shaft.
Make sure you coat all moving parts with grease. Don't be stingy on the grease your hubs will thank you for it.
Its now time to install the locking portion of the hub. Like I said before don't be greedy with the grease!
Once these two gears are greased make sure you place them back together and ensure the teeth are locked in place.
Now you just have to put it all back together.
Slide your Axle shafts back into the housing.
Reinstall your spindle, Hub/Rotor assembly. Make sure you properly set the bearing pre-load on your wheel bearings.
Now its time to install the new locking hubs.
You want to start by installing the spring retainer first. Take note that its very important you install it the right way. The flat Side needs to be facing out.
This is a shot of the inner portion of the ring. Make sure it goes toward the inside of the hub.
Installed it should look like this.
Now is a good time to put a good coat of grease on the axle splines and the splines of the hub.
Take your spring and place it in the hub and compress it a few times to make sure it clears everything. Id does not matter what direction you install the spring.
Take some of your grease and coat the spacer and slide it onto the splines of the axle shaft.
Make sure you coat all moving parts with grease. Don't be stingy on the grease your hubs will thank you for it.
Its now time to install the locking portion of the hub. Like I said before don't be greedy with the grease!
Once these two gears are greased make sure you place them back together and ensure the teeth are locked in place.
08-04-2014 | 07:06 AM
#3
Thread Starter
JK Freak
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 928
Likes: 0
From: Victorville Ca
This is where its nice to have about 6 extra hands HAHA. Take the gears and slide them over the axle shaft and into the hub assembly. While maintaining pressure install the full circle clip on to the end of the axle shaft and that will hold the internals in place.
Now install the cam spacer into the retaining plate. These parts also need to be greased before installation.
Press them into the hub slightly past the groove to allow you to put your large full circle clip.
Now all that left to do is lubricate the orings on the selector cover and turn it to the locked position. You will then line up the cut out portions of the hub selector with the cam ears and install the 6 retaining bolts. If you have ANY issue installing the selector cover STOP! Take it apart and verify you followed each step. The cover will install with minimal effort.
And thats it your done! Fill the front diff back up with a good quality gear fluid and your ready to hit the trail!
Now install the cam spacer into the retaining plate. These parts also need to be greased before installation.
Press them into the hub slightly past the groove to allow you to put your large full circle clip.
Now all that left to do is lubricate the orings on the selector cover and turn it to the locked position. You will then line up the cut out portions of the hub selector with the cam ears and install the 6 retaining bolts. If you have ANY issue installing the selector cover STOP! Take it apart and verify you followed each step. The cover will install with minimal effort.
And thats it your done! Fill the front diff back up with a good quality gear fluid and your ready to hit the trail!
08-04-2014 | 07:06 AM
#4
Thread Starter
JK Freak
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 928
Likes: 0
From: Victorville Ca
Now for some parts comparison.
Stock 30 spline Vs Yukon 35 spline
This is not the first vehicle I have had issues with Warn Premium hubs on. The internals on them just aren't strong enough to hold up the the constant abuse. For me the cast aluminum portion is what usually fails.
Here are a few comparison pictures to show you the low profile design of the Yukon.
A huge selling point on Yukons hubs for me is that as long as they have been on the market they have had a zero failures. If by some chance they do fail the default to the locked position allowing you to continue wheeling and allowing you to get off the trail.
One more thing I really like is the 1/3 rotation from free to lock. The Warns have a 9/10 rotation to lock and were a pain.
Stock 30 spline Vs Yukon 35 spline
This is not the first vehicle I have had issues with Warn Premium hubs on. The internals on them just aren't strong enough to hold up the the constant abuse. For me the cast aluminum portion is what usually fails.
Here are a few comparison pictures to show you the low profile design of the Yukon.
A huge selling point on Yukons hubs for me is that as long as they have been on the market they have had a zero failures. If by some chance they do fail the default to the locked position allowing you to continue wheeling and allowing you to get off the trail.
One more thing I really like is the 1/3 rotation from free to lock. The Warns have a 9/10 rotation to lock and were a pain.