Woohoo, LOD Sliders are in the house
03-31-2010 | 07:10 PM
#52
Thread Starter
JK Freak
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 770
Likes: 0
From: Orange County, CA
My kit came with
14x 7/16 fine 1" bolts
2x 1/2 coarse 4" bolts with nuts
all bolts were grade 5 coated with a wierd green anti-rust coating
It also came with one tap 7/16 fine
If you did not get any hardware here is what you need:
Shopping list:
Orchard Supply & Hardware:
2x grade-8 1/2" x 4" bolt with a matching nut
14x grade-8 7/16" x 1" bolt to replace the grade 5 fastners provided (optional)
2x 2"x2" square washers with a 1/2" hole
1/4" x 3" npt brass nipple
3/8" drill bit for wood with a brad point
2x 1/8" quality drill bit for metal
2x 3/8" quality drill bit for metal
1x 25/64" quality drill bit for metal
2x 7/16 fine thread tap
Pep Boys:
Silicone gasket sealant
7mm 12 point socket
Check out my sort-of write up for what to do with all of this stuff, please let me know if you have any questions. pm or e-mail if I don't respond quickly. Good Luck!!
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...&highlight=lod
Last edited by dadgummit; 03-31-2010 at 07:12 PM.
03-31-2010 | 07:18 PM
#53
Eternal ***erator
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 18,270
Likes: 3
From: Niagara, New York
Thank you for the reply, I appreciate the list. I have hardware missing and was trying to figure out the count but gave up.
I read your write-up of sorts and it seams easy enough to me, just need to get time to do it when it is warm and I am not worn out. Soon, very soon. I have had these since Christmas thanks to my wife
but no time or good weather yet to install tem, but it is finally here.
I read your write-up of sorts and it seams easy enough to me, just need to get time to do it when it is warm and I am not worn out. Soon, very soon. I have had these since Christmas thanks to my wife
but no time or good weather yet to install tem, but it is finally here.
05-30-2010 | 08:33 PM
#54
JK Newbie
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
I must be the only one who had difficulty with this install. I'll outline what I had trouble with and maybe others who were able to avoid these issues can comment to help others.
I have an LOD rear bumper and front Stinger and love them both. Just got the rails and installed them this weekend.
First of all, there is minimal room to see where to mark the center of your hole to punch. You can see the hole, but it is at an angle and it has to be extremely accurate. Once marked it still has to be center punched perfectly because there is no room for error. Mine shipped with 1/2" fine threaded bolts instead of the 7/16" that most people indicate in earlier threads and there is no tap provided. Once center punched, I used a 1/8" bit to a 3/16" to a 3/8" and finally 29/64" required for the 1/2" tap. By the way, I bought the Cobalt bits for steel and I used drill oil and it still burned through 3 bits in the largest size, two in the next size down and 1ea. in the two smallest. I haven't done the two bottom bolts on each side yet either. Once I put the rail back up to bolt it in, some of these holes were off by minute amounts, but enough that the bolt will not align with the tapped hole. On the first side I had two that wouldn't line up perfectly (it was a miracle that I got the rest on). For the two that did not line up I had to take a Dremel to the hole in the rail to make it wide enough to align. You have to be careful here with the Dremel because you don't want to nick your tapped holes, but you need to bur far enough to get through all the metal on the rail and again you are working at an awkward angle.
I thought the second side would go better. At first I tried to make a template, but that didn't seem to be very accurate once I had the rail up for the test fit. Then I spray painted a quick splash in the holes to mark them. I proceeded to center punch and drill from there. I was much more accurate on this side, however I ended up with 3 of the holes off center. I mean off by the smallest amount, but enough to prevent 3 bolts from going in the newly tapped holes. Tomorrow I will be breaking out the Dremel again to bore the holes in the rail out a little more.
I love my LOD products, but for rails I might look elsewhere or save myself the time and aggravation and pay someone to install them.
I have an LOD rear bumper and front Stinger and love them both. Just got the rails and installed them this weekend.
First of all, there is minimal room to see where to mark the center of your hole to punch. You can see the hole, but it is at an angle and it has to be extremely accurate. Once marked it still has to be center punched perfectly because there is no room for error. Mine shipped with 1/2" fine threaded bolts instead of the 7/16" that most people indicate in earlier threads and there is no tap provided. Once center punched, I used a 1/8" bit to a 3/16" to a 3/8" and finally 29/64" required for the 1/2" tap. By the way, I bought the Cobalt bits for steel and I used drill oil and it still burned through 3 bits in the largest size, two in the next size down and 1ea. in the two smallest. I haven't done the two bottom bolts on each side yet either. Once I put the rail back up to bolt it in, some of these holes were off by minute amounts, but enough that the bolt will not align with the tapped hole. On the first side I had two that wouldn't line up perfectly (it was a miracle that I got the rest on). For the two that did not line up I had to take a Dremel to the hole in the rail to make it wide enough to align. You have to be careful here with the Dremel because you don't want to nick your tapped holes, but you need to bur far enough to get through all the metal on the rail and again you are working at an awkward angle.
I thought the second side would go better. At first I tried to make a template, but that didn't seem to be very accurate once I had the rail up for the test fit. Then I spray painted a quick splash in the holes to mark them. I proceeded to center punch and drill from there. I was much more accurate on this side, however I ended up with 3 of the holes off center. I mean off by the smallest amount, but enough to prevent 3 bolts from going in the newly tapped holes. Tomorrow I will be breaking out the Dremel again to bore the holes in the rail out a little more.
I love my LOD products, but for rails I might look elsewhere or save myself the time and aggravation and pay someone to install them.
05-31-2010 | 04:35 PM
#55
JK Junkie
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,070
Likes: 0
From: Kzoo, MI
What is everyone torquing the bolts in the drilled and tapped holes to? I talked to LOD but they didn't have a concrete suggestion. I installed mine last year and torqued them to around 30 or 35 ft-lbs. They are still solid and have landed and slid on them a few times. Just not much thread there.
05-31-2010 | 05:17 PM
#56
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 487
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach, VA
I must be the only one who had difficulty with this install. I'll outline what I had trouble with and maybe others who were able to avoid these issues can comment to help others.
I have an LOD rear bumper and front Stinger and love them both. Just got the rails and installed them this weekend.
First of all, there is minimal room to see where to mark the center of your hole to punch. You can see the hole, but it is at an angle and it has to be extremely accurate. Once marked it still has to be center punched perfectly because there is no room for error. Mine shipped with 1/2" fine threaded bolts instead of the 7/16" that most people indicate in earlier threads and there is no tap provided. Once center punched, I used a 1/8" bit to a 3/16" to a 3/8" and finally 29/64" required for the 1/2" tap. By the way, I bought the Cobalt bits for steel and I used drill oil and it still burned through 3 bits in the largest size, two in the next size down and 1ea. in the two smallest. I haven't done the two bottom bolts on each side yet either. Once I put the rail back up to bolt it in, some of these holes were off by minute amounts, but enough that the bolt will not align with the tapped hole. On the first side I had two that wouldn't line up perfectly (it was a miracle that I got the rest on). For the two that did not line up I had to take a Dremel to the hole in the rail to make it wide enough to align. You have to be careful here with the Dremel because you don't want to nick your tapped holes, but you need to bur far enough to get through all the metal on the rail and again you are working at an awkward angle.
I thought the second side would go better. At first I tried to make a template, but that didn't seem to be very accurate once I had the rail up for the test fit. Then I spray painted a quick splash in the holes to mark them. I proceeded to center punch and drill from there. I was much more accurate on this side, however I ended up with 3 of the holes off center. I mean off by the smallest amount, but enough to prevent 3 bolts from going in the newly tapped holes. Tomorrow I will be breaking out the Dremel again to bore the holes in the rail out a little more.
I love my LOD products, but for rails I might look elsewhere or save myself the time and aggravation and pay someone to install them.
I have an LOD rear bumper and front Stinger and love them both. Just got the rails and installed them this weekend.
First of all, there is minimal room to see where to mark the center of your hole to punch. You can see the hole, but it is at an angle and it has to be extremely accurate. Once marked it still has to be center punched perfectly because there is no room for error. Mine shipped with 1/2" fine threaded bolts instead of the 7/16" that most people indicate in earlier threads and there is no tap provided. Once center punched, I used a 1/8" bit to a 3/16" to a 3/8" and finally 29/64" required for the 1/2" tap. By the way, I bought the Cobalt bits for steel and I used drill oil and it still burned through 3 bits in the largest size, two in the next size down and 1ea. in the two smallest. I haven't done the two bottom bolts on each side yet either. Once I put the rail back up to bolt it in, some of these holes were off by minute amounts, but enough that the bolt will not align with the tapped hole. On the first side I had two that wouldn't line up perfectly (it was a miracle that I got the rest on). For the two that did not line up I had to take a Dremel to the hole in the rail to make it wide enough to align. You have to be careful here with the Dremel because you don't want to nick your tapped holes, but you need to bur far enough to get through all the metal on the rail and again you are working at an awkward angle.
I thought the second side would go better. At first I tried to make a template, but that didn't seem to be very accurate once I had the rail up for the test fit. Then I spray painted a quick splash in the holes to mark them. I proceeded to center punch and drill from there. I was much more accurate on this side, however I ended up with 3 of the holes off center. I mean off by the smallest amount, but enough to prevent 3 bolts from going in the newly tapped holes. Tomorrow I will be breaking out the Dremel again to bore the holes in the rail out a little more.
I love my LOD products, but for rails I might look elsewhere or save myself the time and aggravation and pay someone to install them.
"For marking the holes I took a 1/4" x 3" npt brass nipple which has a 1/2" OD and 3/8" ID (you can find them in the plumbing section). Then take a 3/8" drill bit for wood with a brad point and slip it through the nipple, It fits rather snug perfect for our uses. You can now place the nipple into the hole in the slider and tap on the drill bit with a hammer. Presto a perfectly centered mark for drilling."
05-31-2010 | 06:35 PM
#57
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 487
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach, VA
Also LoD doesn't supply the tap any longer. I would think it normal to go through two drill bits per size, one per side. But your sizes are different than what I used, 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 were my starter sizes. And 25/64 for the final size for a 7/16 tap. Come to think about it that was also adding to your lining up issue you had. The holes in the sliders are 1/2" and you were taping a 1/2" into the frame, so everything had to be right on. I used 7/16 bolts giving me a 1/16 play. I hope that was just a error on their part by suppling you with 1/2" bolts.
The holes in the sliders are 1/2" and you were taping a 1/2" into the frame, so everything had to be right on. I used 7/16 bolts giving me a 1/16 play. I hope that was just a error on their part by suppling you with 1/2" bolts.
06-03-2010 | 07:18 PM
#59
JK Newbie
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 41
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
When I did my install a few months back I only had one hole not line up to the point of not working as is. Had to also enlarge the hole on the slider to make it work. I had to just keep all the bolts loose until I could get all of them in. There was a post elsewhere on the forum about a tool you could make and use to help with marking a center. This seemed to be your main issue, not having marked the center well. Here is a copy of that post.
"For marking the holes I took a 1/4" x 3" npt brass nipple which has a 1/2" OD and 3/8" ID (you can find them in the plumbing section). Then take a 3/8" drill bit for wood with a brad point and slip it through the nipple, It fits rather snug perfect for our uses. You can now place the nipple into the hole in the slider and tap on the drill bit with a hammer. Presto a perfectly centered mark for drilling."
"For marking the holes I took a 1/4" x 3" npt brass nipple which has a 1/2" OD and 3/8" ID (you can find them in the plumbing section). Then take a 3/8" drill bit for wood with a brad point and slip it through the nipple, It fits rather snug perfect for our uses. You can now place the nipple into the hole in the slider and tap on the drill bit with a hammer. Presto a perfectly centered mark for drilling."
I actually read this prior to install but since my bolts supplied were a different size, I didn't think it would work. Now, rereading your post I see that the brass Nipples are 1/2" OD which would have worked. I highly suggest trying this to future installers to eliminate difficulties.
Also LoD doesn't supply the tap any longer. I would think it normal to go through two drill bits per size, one per side. But your sizes are different than what I used, 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 were my starter sizes. And 25/64 for the final size for a 7/16 tap. Come to think about it that was also adding to your lining up issue you had. The holes in the sliders are 1/2" and you were taping a 1/2" into the frame, so everything had to be right on. I used 7/16 bolts giving me a 1/16 play. I hope that was just a error on their part by suppling you with 1/2" bolts.
The holes in the sliders are 1/2" and you were taping a 1/2" into the frame, so everything had to be right on. I used 7/16 bolts giving me a 1/16 play. I hope that was just a error on their part by suppling you with 1/2" bolts.Next time, without a doubt, I will do what you are suggesting.