Wiring the winch
03-24-2008 | 09:23 PM
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JK Newbie
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 80
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From: Gretna, VA
Wiring the winch
The bumper install and winch mount are written up here:
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modified-jk-tech-2/bumper-winch-less-than-%24600-32647/
In order to mount the reversing starter (solinoid) behind the bumper I had to fabricate longer wires! I used welding wire which is slightly more expensive but much more flexible. Adding the terminations can be a daunting task without the proper tool. Traditionally one would use a crimping tool costing several hundred dollars:
Fortunately there is a $10 tool (available at your local welding shop) that does the job almost as well. Here you see the punch type tool, a finished cable, and an unused terminal. The shrink wrap is important to keep water from entering the cable assembly! The heat gun is available at your local Harbor Freight for $10 when on sale.
To provide proper clearance for the cables I fabricated new spacers from 1/4" galvanized pipe. Be sure to degrease and paint after cutting:
I mounted the assembly near the end of the bumper so I can use the stock control cable. This does leave a corner of the plastic cover exposed. When it gets knocked off the first time I will replace it with one of steel:
This is the completed install. The cables are routed so they will not interfere with the removal of the grill:
I am in the process of designing a replacement for the stacked factory battery terminal bolt! I already have too much under those bolts. That project deserves its own write up when it is done. The license plate holder was meant to be temporary, but after seeing how this discourages tampering with the exposed hook (the gearbox can be easily disengaged and the cable unwound) I think I will dress this one up and retain it.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modified-jk-tech-2/bumper-winch-less-than-%24600-32647/
In order to mount the reversing starter (solinoid) behind the bumper I had to fabricate longer wires! I used welding wire which is slightly more expensive but much more flexible. Adding the terminations can be a daunting task without the proper tool. Traditionally one would use a crimping tool costing several hundred dollars:
Fortunately there is a $10 tool (available at your local welding shop) that does the job almost as well. Here you see the punch type tool, a finished cable, and an unused terminal. The shrink wrap is important to keep water from entering the cable assembly! The heat gun is available at your local Harbor Freight for $10 when on sale.
To provide proper clearance for the cables I fabricated new spacers from 1/4" galvanized pipe. Be sure to degrease and paint after cutting:
I mounted the assembly near the end of the bumper so I can use the stock control cable. This does leave a corner of the plastic cover exposed. When it gets knocked off the first time I will replace it with one of steel:
This is the completed install. The cables are routed so they will not interfere with the removal of the grill:
I am in the process of designing a replacement for the stacked factory battery terminal bolt! I already have too much under those bolts. That project deserves its own write up when it is done. The license plate holder was meant to be temporary, but after seeing how this discourages tampering with the exposed hook (the gearbox can be easily disengaged and the cable unwound) I think I will dress this one up and retain it.