Will I end up spending more money than I think?
10-25-2011, 04:08 PM
#11
JK Super Freak
So if I decided to change the gears what should I go to? 5.13's or 5.38's? I have been reading and I guess 5.38's haven't been around long? The RK lift does come with quick disconnects for the front sway bar.
Would adding an exhaust and intake make up for the lost power when I put bigger tires on or will I still noticed a big difference in loss of power until I change the gears?
Would adding an exhaust and intake make up for the lost power when I put bigger tires on or will I still noticed a big difference in loss of power until I change the gears?
Also gears are the only way you will truly feel the power come back after you put on bigger tires.
For reference here is a picture of my stock 3.73 gears for the D30 versus D44. Imagine if you put 5.38s on that small D30. Also I attached a chart from the FAQ section about performance.
10-25-2011, 04:35 PM
#12
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You have a D30 on your Sahara so 5.13s esp with 35 inch tires. If you had a D44 then 5.38s for 37 inch tires, though you can do 5.13s with 37 inch tires. But in the end it is up to you.
Also gears are the only way you will truly feel the power come back after you put on bigger tires.
For reference here is a picture of my stock 3.73 gears for the D30 versus D44. Imagine if you put 5.38s on that small D30. Also I attached a chart from the FAQ section about performance.
Attachment 228397Attachment 228398
Also gears are the only way you will truly feel the power come back after you put on bigger tires.
For reference here is a picture of my stock 3.73 gears for the D30 versus D44. Imagine if you put 5.38s on that small D30. Also I attached a chart from the FAQ section about performance.
Attachment 228397Attachment 228398
10-25-2011, 05:14 PM
#13
After reading many posts and doing "a little" research, I really like the 3.5 mid arm flex lift from Rock Krawler.
Other than new wheels/tires what am I going to end up dropping money on if I go with that lift? Will I need a new drive shaft, etc? I really don't mind spending some money but I am really just curious what I am going to have to get with that lift.
Any information that you can provide would be awesome. Thanks
Other than new wheels/tires what am I going to end up dropping money on if I go with that lift? Will I need a new drive shaft, etc? I really don't mind spending some money but I am really just curious what I am going to have to get with that lift.
Any information that you can provide would be awesome. Thanks
Anyways I have a 4" with ZERO problems in the drivelines, though I expect i will find them eventually. Most kits are pretty complete, just do your research on the level of kit you buy.
My 35" MT has been fine over the past two years on the factory gate.
I've had more steering issues than anything else
10-25-2011, 05:27 PM
#15
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You are going to want a rear tire carrier as a 35 on that gate is not a good idea.
Gears have been discussed... I have an auto and will most likely go with 5.13's as I don't want 37's which will require 5.38's. 37's come with a hefty price and mods that should be done with them. As one poster stated, sleeves and gussets etc... Guy I was wheeling this weekend said his MPG went from 14 to 17 MPG with the gear swap. He has an auto too.
New front bumper as well. Why? your 35's will now rub and chew up your front bumper. Used that as an excuse to get one, BAM... SWMBO'ed approved.
Can't remember if you stated shocks... Like my bilstein 5100's but like everything else there are personal preferences.
Re-programmer for when you go 35's or more. Need to inform the computer what you are doing.
This lift will give you enough flex to stuff 35's into the stock fender wells to the point they will start chewing off the plastic.
If you can swing D44's, you should do them as well.
I am sporting stock driveshafts with no problems at this time.
Gears have been discussed... I have an auto and will most likely go with 5.13's as I don't want 37's which will require 5.38's. 37's come with a hefty price and mods that should be done with them. As one poster stated, sleeves and gussets etc... Guy I was wheeling this weekend said his MPG went from 14 to 17 MPG with the gear swap. He has an auto too.
New front bumper as well. Why? your 35's will now rub and chew up your front bumper. Used that as an excuse to get one, BAM... SWMBO'ed approved.
Can't remember if you stated shocks... Like my bilstein 5100's but like everything else there are personal preferences.
Re-programmer for when you go 35's or more. Need to inform the computer what you are doing.
This lift will give you enough flex to stuff 35's into the stock fender wells to the point they will start chewing off the plastic.
If you can swing D44's, you should do them as well.
I am sporting stock driveshafts with no problems at this time.
I was looking at the LOD front and rear bumpers. The fronts have the fog like hook ups and the rear adds two more lights. I kind of like that. Also, the LOD rock sliders are pretty sweet. Poison Spyder has an awesome set of sliders but they want close to $1000. Just a little steep if you ask me.
10-25-2011, 05:30 PM
#16
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CDA Idaho? I went to CHS and bought the Jeep from dave smith motors... Small world...
Anyways I have a 4" with ZERO problems in the drivelines, though I expect i will find them eventually. Most kits are pretty complete, just do your research on the level of kit you buy.
My 35" MT has been fine over the past two years on the factory gate.
I've had more steering issues than anything else
Anyways I have a 4" with ZERO problems in the drivelines, though I expect i will find them eventually. Most kits are pretty complete, just do your research on the level of kit you buy.
My 35" MT has been fine over the past two years on the factory gate.
I've had more steering issues than anything else
good to know about not having any problems with the drivelines or 35 on your gate. What is causing your steering issues? Are you just out of alignment or is it something else?
10-25-2011, 05:37 PM
#17
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If you trim your fenders you'll be able to run 37's on that lift, there may be some slight rubbing in which case you just need to extend your bumpstops. Regearing is a definite, 5.13's and 37's are fine, rear tire carrier and bumper can be had for around 800 bucks the two brands that are the best bang for the buck are the Smittybilt XRC and the new Besttop one ( I don't have a lot of info on that one) As for a front bumper you can just stubby your stocker for now and run it that way till you have some more loot on hand. The main concern would be to sleeve and gusset that front axle before you throw those bigger tires on. Also you will need a new front driveshaft, the rear is fine for now. If your having that stuff welded up you may as well get the Lower Control Arm skids welded on too. All in all I think with labor your in the ballpark of around 3 grand or so for everything buttoned up then add on the price of the tires.
10-25-2011, 05:40 PM
#18
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My rule of thumb when building a vehicle is add up the cost of everything you want, then double it and thats about how much it will cost. Your always going to spend more then you think you will
10-25-2011, 05:46 PM
#19
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I am not made of money and things will get done slowly.
Would a big, heavy front bumper be more of a priority than a rear bumper/carrier?
Pressing the OD Off button when you start your jeep will get you by until you get around to gears. (divide the rpm number from the chart by .69)
Chopping the stock fenders is a whole lot cheaper than buying flats.
Chopping the front bumper to a stubby, same thing.
Taller tires = incorrect Speedo/Odo/Mileage. You might put this toward the top of the list. (a tuner will give a better boost than a programmer).
Just because a few people have not had driveshaft issues, has no bearing on whether or not you will. Keep an eye on them and plan accordingly.
Research gusstes/sleeves/lockers/gears so you can decide where, or if, they fit into your build plan.
Get a handle on what all of the steering/lift components do so you have an idea of what to expect. (ex. - 4" lift with stock control arms = flighty handling. You can live with it, but will you want to?)
With your current usage, how high on the list should extra armor be placed?
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