Originally Posted by Northernmedic

As far as the RCV shafts go I firmly believe that it Is important to run 1310 and not 1350 driveshafts. You'll blow out one of these U-joints before damaging the R&P. Going to D60 is ultimately the best solution as WOL indicated but, now you have stronger axels, shafts and R&P, where is your weak point now? We are starting to se tcase failures. We ALL know that wheeling hard has it's price, be prepared to pay regularly to play occassionally.

Originally Posted by Northernmedic

Fair enough, my thoughts here are that I would prefer to break a driveshaft joint and just remove it if need be. You could still drive home safe without a replacement. If you break an Axel shaft U-joint and don't have a replacement you're SOL. I'm not looking to argue here with anyone, just atopic for debate and discussion. Like I said before a D60 is ultimately your best option.

Originally Posted by wayoflife

if there are actually people out there who claim are really wheeling super hard with 40" tires and supposedly have no problems with their dana 44's, i'd have to say they are full of it or have no idea what wheeling really hard is. running 37" toyo's on my dana 44's, i have gone through 2 rear lockers, 1 front locker and broke a front chromoly drive shaft at the shaft - NOT the u-joint. this break ultimately ruined my entire front axle and that's when i upgraded to a dynatrac prorock 60 front axle and 40" toyo's. unfortuantely, i could not afford to upgrade the rear yet and this proved to be a mistake as in no time at all, i ended up blowing out my rear ring gear, in the freezing rain and with 10 miles of the dusy ershim left to go.

now, if there is any hype going on, it's with all the people thinking that beefing up their axle tubes with sleeves is gonna make everything okay. and, no offense meant to those of you running CV joint front shafts but, while these are super strong, i personally would prefer to break a u-joint than an axle shaft. at least a broken u-joint is easy to fix and won't do any additional harm to your axle.

if you are seriously thinking about running 40" tires or, really do wheel your jeep hard, i would highly recommend getting a set of 60's. trust me, i speak from experience.



exactly

Originally Posted by Phimosis

This is obviously an old post, but I just wanted to say thank you to Wayoflife for all the info you post and for running this site. When I went to Google, the info I needed popped up...... Boom! And I gues I won't be doing 40's on Dana 44's! For others that search and find this thread in the future like I did, I have been successfully running 38.5x15.0x15 Boggers on a 2012 Rubicon auto, 5.13 gears, sleeved and gusseted front with RCV's, Ten Chromoly's in rear and Tom Wood drive shafts, with no problems. I've ran Rubicon, Dusy, lots of mud and snow, and no significant breakage. My driving style is: take the easy line through an obstacle, play it smart, use only as much throttle as needed to get through, but if hammering it what it takes to make it, I'm not scared to hammer it. I was thinking of going to 40's, but in a radial hybrid like MTR's or SS M-16's, but I think this thread makes it pretty clear. I'm already pushing my luck with 38x15.0 Boggers. Thanks again, -Phim

Originally Posted by JE8154

He isn't involved with this forum anymore.

Originally Posted by Phimosis

Oh wow. Good to know. I haven't been on the forums for well over a year because my Jeep has been working nicely. :-)

Have the posting rules changed, or are things still overly strict?