MTNBKR

I've been running a 1310 front Adams for quite some time now. No problem and easy install too

donjuan79

I’m looking at that same one. I’ve never had an air ratchet but I’m really thinking about it for this job just because of those stupid Rzeppa bolts lol. I’ve got a Metalcloak front control arm relocation bracket coming to get the front geometry in spec rather than getting four front arms and the shaft is for up to 4.5 inches which is what I’ll be at so I think everything should be perfect as far as the driveline. I’ve heard nothing but good things about these shafts, just wanted to talk to some actual people that are using them. Thanks for the input brother 🍻

donjuan79

ease of install is exactly why I figured I’d just get the shaft rather than the stupid exhaust spacer kit and new CV. I would have broken those flange bolts and been up shit creek without a paddle lol. And having to put together the TF high angle CV wasn’t looking too fun either lol. This is a couple hundred more, but looks like a much easier job. I’m pretty sure it’s the one I’m gonna go with at this point. Thanks for the input brother 🍻

Mark Doiron

I have one. I like it. Replaced my OEM one at perhaps 150,000 miles when it started to spit grease. Don't look for too much help on those long bolts: The only thing I can get on mine on the transfer case is a 12-sided wrench. Not even a ratcheting wrench. But don't worry: You'll get real good at pulling those since you have to do it every few months to grease the CV joint. Or like me, you can not realize that there is a grease joint hidden in there (in addition to several others readily visible), and get to send the driveshaft back to Tom Woods because your local drive line shop doesn't have the tools to work on their proprietary fittings. Fortunately they only charged me parts and return shipping, so total bill was under a $100.

TheDirtman

I recommend running a flange at the Transfer case. Depending on your set up and driveline angles you may not even need the double Cardone shaft. Most people don't take the time to measure and spend the extra $150 on a super maintenance item. Its nice to run a DC on rock crawlers to keep the pinion higher but on an overlanders, beach runner, fire road, daily driver a single u-joint end should work fine. Rear 2 doors might have angle issues.

resharp001

This is good advice. Most people do not consider having to hit that grease zero in the DC, and what a pain it is to access. If someone didn't need a DC, that is a big headache that is eliminated.

TheDirtman

Single ended driveshafts are also only around $300-400 depending tube size and U-joint.

tjkamp

I used an 18v daily 1/2in impact with a universal joint and about 18in of extensions to get at those bolts.

I did break one of the exhaust flange bolts on the drivers side when I put my spacers in. Luckily for me, it was the drivers side, so I just ordered a loop delete that came with a new flange and went about my business.

barongan

Nice share.

stevedolce

have both front and read 1310s. they're OK I guess.
my front drive shaft came loose at the transfer case. it shook one day on the highway that it grenade my transfer case. not trying to place blame on Adams, just stating the facts.

I guess I need to add that to my torque check list.

sent it back to Adams, they rebalanced it and fixed the u joint for a pretty penny.

again, just stating the facts...