Wheel Spacers And Locktite........
#11
JK Jedi
Thread Starter
My whole point with this was to bring the point back up for discussion that many have made....but we've not really discussed much. When you do re torque and you've applied Locktite, if you move the lug nuts, the Locktite bond is broken. It makes absolutely no sense whatsoever to remove all of the nuts, clean them off, reapply Locktite and torque them back to spec. In essence, they would never get re torqued. They would always be torqued upon assembly....over and over. I think the companies that "recommend" Locktite, do so at the their own liability, because they are banking on the customer NOT re torquing to begin with. I've been at this a long time and I have YET to see a properly torqued acorn lug nut back off and none had Locktite applied. The factories have never required or even recommended Locktite on wheel studs and they use the same type fasteners as these wheel spacers do. I've not seen any of the aluminum spacers yet, but the Teraflex ones I have are very high quality so I suspect the same is true for aluminum....although I still would not use aluminum in that application. Just personal preference. Does it "hurt" to use Locktite? No, I guess not. But why then have yall not used it before? I'm sure yall had vehicles with acorn lug nuts before. Your Jeep was before the spacers. I mean, for decades, no one has ever recommended Locktite for lug nuts and all of a sudden makers of aluminum wheel spacers say to use it. That kinda throws up a red flag to me.
Last edited by RedneckJeep; 06-24-2009 at 04:48 AM.
#12
JK Super Freak
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I torqued my Spidertrax to 100ft/lbs with red loctite. I then torqued the wheels onto the spacers at 95ft/lbs. Each time I've rotated my wheels I re-torque the spacers to 95ft/lb so I don't break the seal (theoretically at 100ft/lbs). I put the wheels back on at 95ft/lbs once again. I've rotated every 3k miles now for almost 15k miles and have never felt the spacer nuts loose.
I plan to get new wheels and tires, along with a lift this summer, so I'll have to take the spacers off. Let's see how easily they come off! I'm hoping that I don't damage the studs due to the loctite.
I plan to get new wheels and tires, along with a lift this summer, so I'll have to take the spacers off. Let's see how easily they come off! I'm hoping that I don't damage the studs due to the loctite.
Last edited by nclehmann; 06-24-2009 at 05:02 AM.
#13
JK Junkie
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My take on this is for peace of mind. I applied loctite and torqued to spec. I, too have never seen a wheel come off when it's properly torqued but I'm anal and look my vehicle over routinely. I can't see the nuts holding the spacer on behind the wheel so the loctite gives me a little pice of mind.
Here's a little sumthing extra for anyone to ensure that the torgue isn't broken. Redneck, you've prolly dun this but I'm going to throw it out there for others. Get a marker or equivalant and run a line over the nut and end of bolt. If the nut is backing off, it's a very clear visual as the marked line will be off. Does this makes sense?
Here's a little sumthing extra for anyone to ensure that the torgue isn't broken. Redneck, you've prolly dun this but I'm going to throw it out there for others. Get a marker or equivalant and run a line over the nut and end of bolt. If the nut is backing off, it's a very clear visual as the marked line will be off. Does this makes sense?
#16
JK Junkie
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#18
JK Jedi
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Right. I'm not arguin that. I'm just sayin that Teraflex does NOT recommend it anywhere in their instructions, AND that no auto manufacturer ever required it on similar lug nuts. I'd still like to hear Teraflex's input, though.
#19
I wonder if it's the difference between using aluminum and steel. If it's steel like the TF, then the material is very similar to the axle hub. If aluminum like the Spidertrax, there will probably be different rates of expansion contraction. For what it's worth, the Superior Chromoly rear axles recommend using Loctite on the lug nuts even without spacers.
#20
JK Jedi
Thread Starter
As I remember, the nuts holding the spacer to the wheel are flat, not cones on the Spidertrax. So, less surface area for the friction hold as explained by RedneckJeep.
Rubicon Express recommends thread lock on the quick release posts (and I still lost one). Rancho shocks says to use red Loctite on the shock mounts. Any place that sees vibration plus stress probably benefits from a little extra. You still need to recheck torque. Loctite is not a replacement for proper installation and maintenance, only a help (?). And if you are tightening down your wheel nuts with an air or electric impact wrench until they don't move anymore, you are going to stretch and break your studs. Use a torque wrench.
Rubicon Express recommends thread lock on the quick release posts (and I still lost one). Rancho shocks says to use red Loctite on the shock mounts. Any place that sees vibration plus stress probably benefits from a little extra. You still need to recheck torque. Loctite is not a replacement for proper installation and maintenance, only a help (?). And if you are tightening down your wheel nuts with an air or electric impact wrench until they don't move anymore, you are going to stretch and break your studs. Use a torque wrench.