What would you do?!
#11
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
Hey planman, I know you are a guru on this forum and I thank you for the help. So you think I would be ok with 35's and no gussets? I do rock crawl but I'm not out in Moab or anything. I do not wheel let's say hardcore, but I do push my rig. I was worried about installing the new lift and jumping to 35's w/o gussets. You are not the first person to tell me that 35's are great on a 2 door. With your prior post, I think I'm going to do the lift, tires, and then gussets and locker until I buy another 4 door for my fiancee and put that on 37's. Also, how long do you think my driveshafts will last at 3.5"?
#12
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by planman
35s are fine without gussets unless you bounce or jump your jeep, or get bound up in the rocks with lockers.
Gussets are fairly inexpensive. The Teraflex upper C gussets are an easy install. So it doesn't hurt to do them.
Shocks long enough for a 3.5" lift will end up allowing the the front driveshaft to drag on the exhaust.
With a 3.5" lift, you should have front and rear adjustable trackbars, front lower adjustable control arms, extended brakelines, and will eventually need driveshafts on a 2 dr. When you add the rear driveshaft, you will need rear upper arms, rear coil correction wedges or perches, and rear lower coil retainers.
With a 2.5" lift and appropriate length shocks, you don't need new driveshafts on a 2 dr 6 spd. You don't need the trackbars, brakelines, or front lower arms. That is $2000+ that can be used for other upgrades--if you are on a budget.
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Gussets are fairly inexpensive. The Teraflex upper C gussets are an easy install. So it doesn't hurt to do them.
Shocks long enough for a 3.5" lift will end up allowing the the front driveshaft to drag on the exhaust.
With a 3.5" lift, you should have front and rear adjustable trackbars, front lower adjustable control arms, extended brakelines, and will eventually need driveshafts on a 2 dr. When you add the rear driveshaft, you will need rear upper arms, rear coil correction wedges or perches, and rear lower coil retainers.
With a 2.5" lift and appropriate length shocks, you don't need new driveshafts on a 2 dr 6 spd. You don't need the trackbars, brakelines, or front lower arms. That is $2000+ that can be used for other upgrades--if you are on a budget.
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#13
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by planman
Coast driveshafts are great. I've run Coast, Tom Wood, Tatton, Teraflex, and Rubicon Express driveshafts on our different jeeps. I have no hesitation recommending Coast through David (northridge4x4).
You absolutely must adjust the axle pinion angle to run them. So, you absolutely must do front lowers and rear upper control arms at the same time as the driveshaft upgrades.
Your jeep will handle very poorly with a 3.5" lift on stock arms with no cambolts. Cambolts are a bad idea if you offroad. Too little or too much caster (alignment spec adjusted with front lower control arms) is a very common trigger for Death Wobble when other components are worn or loose.
Here is my explanation about control arms (feels funny quoting myself):
At close to 4" on a 2 door, you will eventually want all 8 arms in order to regain lost wheelbase and adjust pinion angles.