What would you do?!
12-04-2011, 02:56 PM
#1
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
What would you do?!
Hey all, I'm stuck here on what mods to do next and the order I should do them in, so u thought I would ask the fellow jeepers. Here is a list of my next set of mods and if you would tell me what order you would do them in. I will be getting a Christmas bonus at work in 2 weeks and I am going to spend 1k of it because it's time to move to the next step with my rig.
Current set up: running 33's w/2.5" Rubicon express lift and rigged ridge flat fenders
What order should I do these in?
1. Full traction 3" lift with teraflex 1" front spacer (to remove factory rake) and bilstein shocks
2. Aussie locker with C gussets and Procal
3. Front and rear coast driveshafts ( no issue with my current lift but know will need them with new lift)
-please help me out with which order. I have been racking my brain for two months on this and not sure which order o should do these in. Post up your numbers in order from first to last to help me out! Thanks in advance!
Current set up: running 33's w/2.5" Rubicon express lift and rigged ridge flat fenders
What order should I do these in?
1. Full traction 3" lift with teraflex 1" front spacer (to remove factory rake) and bilstein shocks
2. Aussie locker with C gussets and Procal
3. Front and rear coast driveshafts ( no issue with my current lift but know will need them with new lift)
-please help me out with which order. I have been racking my brain for two months on this and not sure which order o should do these in. Post up your numbers in order from first to last to help me out! Thanks in advance!
12-04-2011, 03:52 PM
#4
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by ECHO
Lift - Driveshafts - Locker
12-04-2011, 05:01 PM
#6
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by tslewisz
I can't see everything since I'm on my phone, but what about gears?
Trending Topics
12-04-2011, 05:17 PM
#9
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by nthinuf
With 4-4.5" inches and flats, you should skip the 35's and go straight to 37's. And then do gears/lockers/gussets/sleeves/etc at the same time.
12-05-2011, 04:55 AM
#10
JK Junkie
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by planman
You won't need driveshafts on your 2 dr even with a 3" lift for a long time. Skip those.
The incremental performance gain of doing a 3" lift over what you have now isn't worth it until you have done other upgrades first.
With a 2 dr X, you are not heavy enough to have to worry about C gussets--even with 35s--unless you beat the crap out of your rig.
On a 2 dr X on a budget, I'd do:
Front springs off a 4 dr Rubi hardtop to remove the front rake (free, or a beer/pizza).
If you have RE twin tube shocks, they are too stiff. Sell them and buy softer, longer shocks. On a budget, buy Skyjacker H7037 and H7035 for $37 each.
With longer shocks, you need rear brakeline extention brackets. You can use fence menders from your local hardware store.
Sell your 33s and wheels now and buy a set of 35x12.50R15s with 15x8 steel wheels. The tires are about $200-$220 each and the wheels are about $40-$50 each.
Skip the 37s, and just do 35s. With 37s, you will need many more expensive upgrades (if you offroad it) that you don't need with 35s. 35s on a 2 dr works great.
Skip the ProCal. It gives you no performance gains because it is not a tuner, only a calibrator. Instead, buy a used Superchips Flashpaq for $200. Just make sure it has been returned to stock and that the tire size has also been returned to stock.
If you run 35s, you will need rear extended bumpstops. You can make your own with hockey pucks or buy some 2" extended rear bumpstops.
When it comes time to regear, sell your axles and buy a pair of Rubicon take off axles that have already been regeared and come with lockers. You can buy a used pair already regeared for around $3500, and sell your axles to offset the cost.
Until then, run an Aussie front locker, keep your stock gearing, and be used to turning off the OD as soon as you get in your rig.
The incremental performance gain of doing a 3" lift over what you have now isn't worth it until you have done other upgrades first.
With a 2 dr X, you are not heavy enough to have to worry about C gussets--even with 35s--unless you beat the crap out of your rig.
On a 2 dr X on a budget, I'd do:
Front springs off a 4 dr Rubi hardtop to remove the front rake (free, or a beer/pizza).
If you have RE twin tube shocks, they are too stiff. Sell them and buy softer, longer shocks. On a budget, buy Skyjacker H7037 and H7035 for $37 each.
With longer shocks, you need rear brakeline extention brackets. You can use fence menders from your local hardware store.
Sell your 33s and wheels now and buy a set of 35x12.50R15s with 15x8 steel wheels. The tires are about $200-$220 each and the wheels are about $40-$50 each.
Skip the 37s, and just do 35s. With 37s, you will need many more expensive upgrades (if you offroad it) that you don't need with 35s. 35s on a 2 dr works great.
Skip the ProCal. It gives you no performance gains because it is not a tuner, only a calibrator. Instead, buy a used Superchips Flashpaq for $200. Just make sure it has been returned to stock and that the tire size has also been returned to stock.
If you run 35s, you will need rear extended bumpstops. You can make your own with hockey pucks or buy some 2" extended rear bumpstops.
When it comes time to regear, sell your axles and buy a pair of Rubicon take off axles that have already been regeared and come with lockers. You can buy a used pair already regeared for around $3500, and sell your axles to offset the cost.
Until then, run an Aussie front locker, keep your stock gearing, and be used to turning off the OD as soon as you get in your rig.