crazybones340

I don't know how to weld currently, but I want to learn. I am planning on getting scrap steel to practice on. My question is what would be the ideal welder to buy for welding c gussets. Trusses control arm brackets? Any advice is appreciated

crazybones340

Waiting on 2.5 AEV lift I have 35s dana 30

MotoJeeper

Any thing will work, really. It's better to have a 220v welder to get more penetration (hehe...penetration). 120v doesn't have as much amperage to really burn them in, but not every house has 220v ports. Lincoln and Miller are good companies. SMAW (stick) is probably the easiest to learn on, but GMAW (MIG) is better for doing actual work with it. GTAW (TIG) is best left to the pros for the pretty blue, purple and gold welds. If you're welding a truss, you'll have to preheat the cast iron center section and wrap it in welding blankets to slow the cooling down, and get special wire for cast. Welding on an axle is tricky business for a newbie though. I would practice puddles first, then beads, then fusing two pieces of steel together, then try to break it to see how good of a job you did.

crazybones340

Thank you for the quick response. I guess I will stay away from the truss for now. Guess I will use a 110 and practice weld until it looks decent. Do you know what type of metal the c's are? This is a learning experience. I'm gonna weld on scrap and hit with a sledge. Lol thanks man

nthinuf

A while back I was looking at an Intro to Welding course at the local community college. Might be worth considering if you have the free time.

crazybones340

I was thinking about classes also. I don't want anymore debt though. I'm still trying to pay off student loans from back in the day

MotoJeeper

The inner Cs are just forged steel. They're thick, so you got to find the right amp level to get it to stick (this is where 220 helps a lot). You can use a 110, but it's on you if it's not deep enough. It's been a while since I've welded on thick stock, or any welding really since I joined the military 4 years ago. I would definitely look at taking a class at a community college or tech school to learn the science behind a good bead like the other guy said, or at least find someone to help you.

Jonathan_JK

I'm a certified Aeronautical welder. 90% of our welds are TIG welds. They all have to be NDI "X-rayed" for proper penetration and to detect impurities. If a tube spar weld on a vertical stabilizer breaks usually it will result in several deaths so all welds are Non Destructive Inspected and Inspected again.

TIG welds are pretty but honestly for a Jeep application MIG wire fed with flux core would be fine just make sure you get good penetration or it will not bond correctly and you will have weak welds.

You can have a weld that looks like a stack of dimes but if there are not enough amps for penetration you could be able to break the weld with your bare hands.

Consistant penetration is key in any welding application no matter what style.

Jonathan_JK

I like Miller welders. All the pro's have their favorite I'm a Miller man.

It's Miller time after welding

Also Metal prep is 90% of welding. Dirty metal= Impurities = Weak welds

a Wire brush is going to be your best friend.

TweakJK

Dont waste your time on a 110v mig.

A. Most home breakers cant handle a 110v mig anyways, so you are going to have to do work. Might as well spend $20 installing a 220v outlet 2 feet below your garage breaker panel.

B. a 110v mig lacks the penetration needed to do 90% of the things you will be doing to a jeep, welding to the axle, welding to the frame, and building a cage.

C. It is so much nicer running a 220v at 50%, than a 110v at 100% and hoping it holds.

I did all my work with a Hobart 210MVP and built my bumper with an older hobart 175. Worked great and I never doubted the strength of my welds.