Towboater2847

Think I'm going to be buying a new JKU in the next couple weeks, not sure if I should go ahead and get a rubicon so I can start with Dana 44's and the tru-lok. Or just get the sport and wait for things to brake before putting the Dana 44's or 60's in it. I already have a 2012 jk, just don't have enough cargo space for me anymore.

Ajkaz

All depends on what size tires you intend on running and where/what your wheeling. I have a JKR, but because of the trails I run now, if I were to get a new Jeep I would get a optioned out sport and put that +/-$9k into axles and a xfer case.

Towboater2847

I plan on running 35's or 37's. not doing to serious of off-roading at least nothing crazy. But still will be having some fun from time to time.

sea bass

I had an X on 35's and now I have a rubicon and 37's. You can do a lot with open diffs and 35's. I feel like I could do 95% of what I could do in my rubicon - if not more. Proper suspension is key. Keeping all 4 wheels on the ground make for traction with open diffs

Are you able to run the trails you want to run with your current jeep?

Ajkaz

Based on that I would buy a sport and get an aftermarket front 44 housing with caster correction if you must have 37's (I think they would be a waste.) Regear and add a locker to the rear once you receive the front. Don't cheap out on the parts for your axles and they should be fine on 37s with the wheeling you described.

dahreno

It's not just a front 44 you get with a Rubicon, I couldn't live without the 4 to 1 transfer case. I also love the electronic sway bar disco. If you wheel, you can't really go wrong with the Rubicon. Plus it comes with a warranty. I do understand why people just buy a new Jeep, I did it but, you can build an old Jeep to be beyond a Rubicon for about half the money and end up with something very unique that no one else has.

Ryan0260

Me personally, I would get the Rubicon and swap in a ProRock 44 Unlimited housing. It will allow you swap the factory E-lockers, and will be plenty strong for the way you will be using it, even with 37's. Obviously, you would want to regear, and I would probably go ahead and upgrade the front axle shafts while you have everything apart.

Mike H.

If your idea of 37's is Pit Bulls, or comp compound rubber, then get a sport and upgrade to aftermarket axle housings/internals.
If you plan to beat on the rig, then get a sport and upgrade to aftermarket axle housings/internals.
If your idea of 37's is KM2's, KO2's and comparable dual purpose tires, and your wheeling with finesse and skill, get the Rubi, get aftermarket axle shafts and truss and C the front and carry on.
Way too many JK Rubies in our club running 35/37's with factory 44 housings (on some very tough "rock crawling type" trails) without issues for me to be convinced aftermarket axle housings are needed.
I'm not sure what lift height castor corrected axles become a necessity, but t 3.5" lift, running adjustable control arms and a double cardan driveshafts I have no wandering/flighty steering, and no vibrations.

For what it's worth, I broke/bent a full float dana 60 in a 69 F250 on 8.25" wide street radials. Sometimes "stuff" just happens, doesn't mean I needed to upgrade to a dana 10million.
I'm certain I could go out and blow up a dana 60 on some of the trails I've ran my Rubi 44's on if I wanted to ignore bind and undercuts and let it bounce while spinning up waterfalls with 8psi in the tires etc etc. Matter of fact, a local did just blow up a D60 on a trail that I would feel quite comfortable wheeling with a D30... because for 12 years I did just that in my XJ with a D30/8.25 setup... Same guy says it's a crazy trail and to never go there alone, but I have no issues doing just that.

My personal opinion is that the whole axle scare thing is over emphasized...
I think that people get a Rubi who have little to no experience actually wheeling, and the vehicle is so capable stock that these inexperienced folks get into situations that are over their head/skill level/understanding... then they abuse the rig (unknowingly, not on purpose) and blame the failure of x part on "weakness". While some one with some AIS time could idle the same obstacle. You see it time and time again if you are out running the trails.

Off of soap box.
Flame suit zipped up.

dahreno

So Mike, you have a rubi., does that mean you have little to no experience wheeling ? You don't feel like you have more control over rocks with the 4:1 rubi transfer case ? You would rather go and manually disc. your sway bar ? What a bunch of Balony.

up4rox

If you can live with a 35" tire, the Rubicon makes sense. Get the 4:10 gear option and install a quality 2.5"-3" lift and you are good. The factory axles/driveline are reliable at this lift/tire size, the gearing is adequate and you will avoid many of the costly upgrades and increased maintenance that comes with 37's. You also are less likely to have issues with dealers if you do have the need for warranty work. A Rubicon on 35's is a very balanced and capable Jeep both on/off road.