What gears for Rubicon and 35s?
#11
The house finally sold. But I am waiting on being more stable in my job before I do it. The 07 gets me from point a to b, however, the two previous owners (females that I know of) did nothing for maintenance. I keep having to fix things that shouldn’t need to be.
I will likely wait for a little while to get the ripp and gears though.
I am shooting for next summer, but that may be pushed up, depending on various things.
#12
For pricing, it varies wildly. The Northeast corner of the country seems to be quite a bit higher for the most part, especially when compared to the Midwest/Southwest states. Got my first regear in Texas for $800 (total get-what-you-pay-for crap job), second regear in Colorado for $1500. Around the same time, reports of $3k+ were not uncommon from people out around New York/Jersey. So base the pricing off of what other local shops are charging, not necessarily from quotes you are seeing from the other side of the country...
#13
Yeah, Ripp recommends regearing for the tire size before adding their superchargers. They used to be fairly active here, so you can find plenty of old posts from them suggesting it.
For pricing, it varies wildly. The Northeast corner of the country seems to be quite a bit higher for the most part, especially when compared to the Midwest/Southwest states. Got my first regear in Texas for $800 (total get-what-you-pay-for crap job), second regear in Colorado for $1500. Around the same time, reports of $3k+ were not uncommon from people out around New York/Jersey. So base the pricing off of what other local shops are charging, not necessarily from quotes you are seeing from the other side of the country...
For pricing, it varies wildly. The Northeast corner of the country seems to be quite a bit higher for the most part, especially when compared to the Midwest/Southwest states. Got my first regear in Texas for $800 (total get-what-you-pay-for crap job), second regear in Colorado for $1500. Around the same time, reports of $3k+ were not uncommon from people out around New York/Jersey. So base the pricing off of what other local shops are charging, not necessarily from quotes you are seeing from the other side of the country...
I’m in Southern Oregon. So I will have to check around. I don’t trust some of the local shops here though.
#14
#15
Just to further elaborate on what Resharp touched on. If you're doing a re-gear, with the intent of building for offroad capability and currently rolling with open differentials.....then it is often recommended to add traction devices such as lockers or LSDs at the same time as the re-gear. Essentially, the labor to re-gear or add a traction device into the axle is the same amount of work/labor. So it's better to add the traction devices at the same time as the re-gear to save some $ on paying for the labor twice doing it separately.
#16
Aftermarket lockers are arguably the better traction devices. But assuming you aren't interested in upgrading to expensive aftermarket axles at some point, a rubicon with stock 44's is a good choice. Nice upgrade when compared to the open front d30 and option of rear clutch-based limited.
#18
I've got a 2015 2dr; I just added 4.88's with yukon grizzly lockers front and rear still running 33's while my new tires are ordered.......with the 6 speed manual it feels like a little sports car......almost 3000 rpm at 70 mph....but it's a blast to drive.......I'm glad I went with the 4.88's....
#19
I have had 3 jk rubicons all with 4.10's and 35's and been happy with all and no desire to regear. I do a lot of miles and have never felt the need to regear. I go to Moab 2X a year (drive 750 miles each way from Montana) Idaho, colorado, oregon, washington, California etc I travel the speed limits so any where from 80mph down to 65mph and going 80mph probably get 13-14mpg and 65mph get 18mpg or so.