What does it take to PROPERLY run 37's?
#1
What does it take to PROPERLY run 37's?
I would like to get all of your guys' inputs on what it takes to properly run 37's on a JK. I know there are many people on here who run 37in tires, but who has really taken the different factors acting on the various JK systems from the addition of these large meats into consideration before throwing them on? And, what does it take so you aren't just bolting on a ticking timebomb?
From my knowledge, the systems that are affected when putting these large tires on our Jeeps are pretty much just the axles. The differential gearing negates any effect on the drivetrain from added stressors from the larger tires, and since the wheels are unsprung weight, you don't need to worry about the suspension...am I missing anything?
With that, however, there are different choices to make with the axles...stay with the Dana 44's (assuming you have a Rubicon, or upgraded to 44's), or move up to Dana 60's? If you were to stay with the 44's, one would need to upgrade gears and axleshafts in addition to bracing at the c's to compensate for the added stress from the larger tires. That bracing is what clues me in to that 37's might not be such a good choice for the 44's...that they are simply just not designed for such big of a tire. With some of the freak failures of the axle housings just snapping in half I've seen on here, that persuades me even more that the 44's are not such a good choice.
Dana 60's, on the other hand, are admittedly pretty costly, however they are pretty much guaranteed to be able to handle 37in tires with ease and could run larger without any second thoughts. I'm not all that familiar with Dana 60's, so this is where I need help also. Do you need to upgrade to a new suspension, driveshafts, and steering components? I've seen the Currie Rock Jock 60's and the Dynatrac Pro Rock 60's, and from what I can tell, they have JK bracketry, but does that mean I can bolt my current suspension right up into the same exact places they're at on my 44's? How will the JK's electronics fair with the Dana 60's? What kind of work is involved in setting up Dana 60's?
Yes, I have read Eddie's write-up on axle basics, but what my question boils down to is if the Dana 60 is the proper way to run 37's?...if running a Dana 44, even with those upgraded parts (gears, axleshafts, bracing), is just a ticking bomb waiting to go?
Thanks for all your help.
From my knowledge, the systems that are affected when putting these large tires on our Jeeps are pretty much just the axles. The differential gearing negates any effect on the drivetrain from added stressors from the larger tires, and since the wheels are unsprung weight, you don't need to worry about the suspension...am I missing anything?
With that, however, there are different choices to make with the axles...stay with the Dana 44's (assuming you have a Rubicon, or upgraded to 44's), or move up to Dana 60's? If you were to stay with the 44's, one would need to upgrade gears and axleshafts in addition to bracing at the c's to compensate for the added stress from the larger tires. That bracing is what clues me in to that 37's might not be such a good choice for the 44's...that they are simply just not designed for such big of a tire. With some of the freak failures of the axle housings just snapping in half I've seen on here, that persuades me even more that the 44's are not such a good choice.
Dana 60's, on the other hand, are admittedly pretty costly, however they are pretty much guaranteed to be able to handle 37in tires with ease and could run larger without any second thoughts. I'm not all that familiar with Dana 60's, so this is where I need help also. Do you need to upgrade to a new suspension, driveshafts, and steering components? I've seen the Currie Rock Jock 60's and the Dynatrac Pro Rock 60's, and from what I can tell, they have JK bracketry, but does that mean I can bolt my current suspension right up into the same exact places they're at on my 44's? How will the JK's electronics fair with the Dana 60's? What kind of work is involved in setting up Dana 60's?
Yes, I have read Eddie's write-up on axle basics, but what my question boils down to is if the Dana 60 is the proper way to run 37's?...if running a Dana 44, even with those upgraded parts (gears, axleshafts, bracing), is just a ticking bomb waiting to go?
Thanks for all your help.
#2
5.13 gears, strengthen the c section of the front axles, (Superior) - chrome-molly axles, upgraded drive shafts. I haven't heard anyone describe the Dana 44 with these type of upgrades as a ticking timebomb. A Dana 60 would be the hoss on the trail but you are right that they are very costly. I am interested in what others think about this question.
write up on the c section gussets for the axles:
http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...cement-gussets
write up on the c section gussets for the axles:
http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...cement-gussets
Last edited by Geeper4x4; 07-10-2008 at 07:57 PM.
#4
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#5
First let me say that the Currie Rock Jock 60 is a direct bolt on front and rear, drive shafts must be replaced.
How long will the stock axles last with 37's?
Too many variables to really say, see below.
If you are a concrete cruiser, probably never have a problem.
Stock axles will be just fine.
If you use it off road, many factors to consider!!!
Do you drive to and from the trail or tow (flat or trailer)?
If you are a family man and reliability is a major factor, get the 60's.
Are you a throttle jockey?
60's
How much experience do you have off road?
If you are a seasoned off road guy that can pic good lines and keep tire spin to a minimum, you can run the stock axles with upgraded shafts, gears, etc.
Type of terrain do you run?
Mud, 60's
Rocks, 44 or 60's (see above)
Sand, 44 as long as you keep all tires on the ground. The 2.5" x 1/4" wall tube of the front axle will bend.
Do you enjoy jumping your vehicle ocationally?
60's
Hope this helps!!!!!
How long will the stock axles last with 37's?
Too many variables to really say, see below.
If you are a concrete cruiser, probably never have a problem.
Stock axles will be just fine.
If you use it off road, many factors to consider!!!
Do you drive to and from the trail or tow (flat or trailer)?
If you are a family man and reliability is a major factor, get the 60's.
Are you a throttle jockey?
60's
How much experience do you have off road?
If you are a seasoned off road guy that can pic good lines and keep tire spin to a minimum, you can run the stock axles with upgraded shafts, gears, etc.
Type of terrain do you run?
Mud, 60's
Rocks, 44 or 60's (see above)
Sand, 44 as long as you keep all tires on the ground. The 2.5" x 1/4" wall tube of the front axle will bend.
Do you enjoy jumping your vehicle ocationally?
60's
Hope this helps!!!!!
#7
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5.13 gears, strengthen the c section of the front axles, (Superior) - chrome-molly axles, upgraded drive shafts. I haven't heard anyone describe the Dana 44 with these type of upgrades as a ticking timebomb. A Dana 60 would be the hoss on the trail but you are right that they are very costly. I am interested in what others think about this question.
write up on the c section gussets for the axles:
http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...cement-gussets
write up on the c section gussets for the axles:
http://project-jk.com/jeep-jk-write-...cement-gussets
it was only a about a couple of hundred difference between the mopar jk rubicon d44, so that is why i will go for the powerwagon axles even beefier... yes i could buy other modifide axles that bolt it, but i love the fact that when people ask who did your work i can say i did and watch ther
yes axle is a bit wider, but hey fender flares, or and wheel backspace will help with that.........
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#9
60's are in my plans if I break 44 molly's...
Do Rock Jocks work with all the JK ESP crap?
Do Rock Jocks use factory brakes, or is modification required?
Do Rock Jocks work with the JK track bars?
Do you recommend robbing a bank alone to finance the Rock Jocks or will a combination of armed robbery and embezzlement be required?
BTW.. I run a Currie 9" in my Pro Touring 68 Mustang.
Do Rock Jocks work with all the JK ESP crap?
Do Rock Jocks use factory brakes, or is modification required?
Do Rock Jocks work with the JK track bars?
Do you recommend robbing a bank alone to finance the Rock Jocks or will a combination of armed robbery and embezzlement be required?
BTW.. I run a Currie 9" in my Pro Touring 68 Mustang.
I'm not sure I would start with a bank, I would start with a 7-11 and work your way up to the bank!!!
x2, on ticking timebomb, i am running 37s with a dana 30, but i do not have a heavy right foot, i do wheel, so far the only problem was the drive shaft, but that was do to lift hight....when it breaks i will upgrade to the mopar i believe it is 10.5 or 60axles,the same as the powerwagon axles, and even has wheel sensors....i have the stuff at work... i believe the rear was $1400 and had .456 gears, and lsd, and front was something like 1700-1800.......but you have to add the price of brackets, and labor for someone to weld unless you can weld....is it coste effective????
it was only a about a couple of hundred difference between the mopar jk rubicon d44, so that is why i will go for the powerwagon axles even beefier... yes i could buy other modifide axles that bolt it, but i love the fact that when people ask who did your work i can say i did and watch ther
yes axle is a bit wider, but hey fender flares, or and wheel backspace will help with that.........
it was only a about a couple of hundred difference between the mopar jk rubicon d44, so that is why i will go for the powerwagon axles even beefier... yes i could buy other modifide axles that bolt it, but i love the fact that when people ask who did your work i can say i did and watch ther
yes axle is a bit wider, but hey fender flares, or and wheel backspace will help with that.........
Something to keep in mind, it is my understanding that the Mopar rear 60 is a "c-clip" axle, not good for off road. By the time you buy the axle, add brackets, have the axle straighten due to welding brackets, install locker and gears of choice....... is it worth it??? Do the math!!!
Last edited by David @ Currie Ent.; 07-11-2008 at 10:20 AM.
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Yes, they work with all the ESP "crap". The rear Rock Jock re-uses the factory brakes, the front only re-uses the caliper. The Currie adjustable track bars work with the 60's.
I'm not sure I would start with a bank, I would start with a 7-11 and work your way up to the bank!!!
The only lift in question would be the RE radius arm long arm, on the front, have not tested.
The rear is 1899.95 + gears, locker and bearings, 1600.00 for ARB or 1250.00 for Detroit for a grand total of 3,500.00 w/ARB and 3,150.00 w/Detroit.
Something to keep in mind, it is my understanding that the Mopar rear 60 is a "c-clip" axle, not good for off road. By the time you buy the axle, add brackets, have the axle straighten due to welding brackets, install locker and gears of choice....... is it worth it??? Do the math!!!
I'm not sure I would start with a bank, I would start with a 7-11 and work your way up to the bank!!!
The only lift in question would be the RE radius arm long arm, on the front, have not tested.
The rear is 1899.95 + gears, locker and bearings, 1600.00 for ARB or 1250.00 for Detroit for a grand total of 3,500.00 w/ARB and 3,150.00 w/Detroit.
Something to keep in mind, it is my understanding that the Mopar rear 60 is a "c-clip" axle, not good for off road. By the time you buy the axle, add brackets, have the axle straighten due to welding brackets, install locker and gears of choice....... is it worth it??? Do the math!!!
Your are right it is worth it ya'll have a quality product, and is awsome...and didn't mean anything bad or negitive.....I was going the route that i was going for my own personal reasons I like to build stuff, and get a great satisfaction from it....some people like to buy stuff built or build it.... nothing negitive ment.....sorry