What do you guys to to stop the front drive shaft from hitting the skid plate?
#1
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Parksville, British Columbia
Posts: 1,030
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
What do you guys to to stop the front drive shaft from hitting the skid plate?
I just got a 2.5" RK max travel kit with LT shocks and my front drive shaft hits the front of the skid plate. How is this fixed? Cut out part of the skid plate?
Edit: ug, I wish there was a way to fix typos in the title
Edit: ug, I wish there was a way to fix typos in the title
#3
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Parksville, British Columbia
Posts: 1,030
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
#4
JK Enthusiast
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Montgomery,ny
Posts: 363
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I used some washers on my 2012 and teraflex exhaust spacers. No rubbing at all but drive shaft is at max angle just driving they tilted the engine and tranny so much. I need a new shaft but its working for now till next month when i get a shaft. What year do you have If you have a 07-11 you will be fine if its a standard just shim the skid down a little bit. I had the same problem on my 2009 but i had a auto and it hit the tranny skid and ripped my boot i traded it in so never bought a new shaft.
#5
JK Jedi Master
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 0
Received 162 Likes
on
154 Posts
You can add washers to lower the skid.
You can pull the skid off and cut a notch out.
But with a lift and that thick ass stock shaft, you could easily still be rubbing. A thinner aftermarket shaft 'and' cutting a notch may be what you end up with.
You also need to go flex it and crawl underneath to check the clearance at the corner of the tranny pan!! Contact here will rip the boot off, which isn't a huge deal, but it can also bash in the corner of the pan, which is.
You can pull the skid off and cut a notch out.
But with a lift and that thick ass stock shaft, you could easily still be rubbing. A thinner aftermarket shaft 'and' cutting a notch may be what you end up with.
You also need to go flex it and crawl underneath to check the clearance at the corner of the tranny pan!! Contact here will rip the boot off, which isn't a huge deal, but it can also bash in the corner of the pan, which is.
Trending Topics
#8
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Parksville, British Columbia
Posts: 1,030
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
hmmm, mine is an automatic. I never even thought about the tranny pan. Is it an issue even with the 2.5" lifts? I take it to find out I would have to stuff the passenger side tire and let the driver side drop? I can't afford a new drive shaft right now.
Last edited by troyboy; 12-06-2011 at 09:07 PM.
#9
JK Jedi Master
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Austin <--> Colorado Springs
Posts: 11,463
Likes: 0
Received 162 Likes
on
154 Posts
Total lift height? Some 2.5" coils give 2", others are over 3", some are closer to 4".
Shock length? Short shocks won't allow the axle to droop as far. You have long travel shocks, right?
Is the front axle centered, or still offset to the drivers side after the lift?
All street driving? A few light trails? Or do you spend a lot of time at max flex?
Stock driveshaft or thinner aftermarket.
Do you disconnect?
Whatever else I am not remembering...
Too many variables, so no definitive answers. As suggested above, do yourself a favor and find someplace to flex and check. And while you are under there, be sure to check everything, not just driveshaft/tranny pan clearance. In particular, stretched brakelines and rings of grease over the driveshaft joints at the front and rear of the tcase.