What do I need to purchase for 3.5" lift kit for JKU?
07-01-2016, 08:29 AM
#32
JK Super Freak
In order to correct for this, the track bar bracket on the axle is raised and the drag link is flipped to the top of the knuckle. This does two things. One, it returns the track bar and drag link to a position more parallel to the ground, reducing or eliminating bump steer. Since the upward movement of the wheel will not cause a more pronounced movement in the drag link. And two, it raises the roll center of the Jeep. This is why a raised REAR track bar bracket is almost always included as part of any decent lift.
When you look at it from a geometry and mechanics perspective, it makes quite a bit of sense.
07-01-2016, 08:34 AM
#33
JK Super Freak
However, drop brackets reduce clearance, which makes them less desirable for me, since I prefer rocks over mud any day of the week. It doesn't mean you can't crawl rocks with drop brackets, just like you CAN crawl on rocks with 33s. My puny 35s won't make it over everything as someone on 40s, but it just means I need to put a little more thought into my lines, or take the bypass.
I've known guys that have bent their drop brackets. And AEV wouldn't warranty them because they will tell you they aren't meant for rock crawling. (Their claim, I just happen to agree).
07-01-2016, 08:37 AM
#34
JK Junkie
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Rancho's drop brackets cost a little more but are boxed and 1 PIECE unlike AEV, RE, ETC
next month the new Rancho Brackets will have 3 additional holes for caster adjustment WIN
Screw cam bolts
next month the new Rancho Brackets will have 3 additional holes for caster adjustment WIN
Screw cam bolts
07-01-2016, 09:15 AM
#35
Super Moderator
Thanks for all the further details. Most of this I already understood except for the purpose of the drag link flip and track bar bracket. Thanks for those details ShutterBug, that makes a lot of sense. I understood the re-centering of the axle purpose of needing a track bar or adjustable TB but hadn't considering the need to correct the horizontal positioning when going above 3in. or drag link interference. That makes a lot of sense, now that you explained it.
This is also one part of the major reasons I decided to stay below a 3.5" lift.
1. I knew there were extra expenses needed due to needing to properly address everything.
2. I didn't need to go above 3.5" because I'm going with and sticking with 35's.
3. I prefer to keep my Jeep as low to ground as needed, going higher just means less stability. I would prefer to avoid rolling my JKU on it's side over gaining that "look at me, I'm high up in the air factor."
I'm going with 35's and decided the Mopar 2in lift was best for my needs. While the Mopar 2in lift is a pretty complete kit, like all kits out there, there was some room for further improvement. It came with CAM bolts and I don't like them as well, where I'm sure Geo correction brackets would work fine instead for my purposes, but I decided to add front adjustable Lower control arms instead. I also added the TF front adjustable Track Bar. I also got a set of Spyder trax 1.5in wheel spacers for just in case purposes. I'm not sure if I'll need/use the wheel spacers but I found a good set used for just in case purposes. Once I get this all installed, I'm going to be getting some front sway bar link quick disconnects. I won't have lockers for awhile and figured those are an inexspensive mod to better help keep both front wheels on the ground.
This is also one part of the major reasons I decided to stay below a 3.5" lift.
1. I knew there were extra expenses needed due to needing to properly address everything.
2. I didn't need to go above 3.5" because I'm going with and sticking with 35's.
3. I prefer to keep my Jeep as low to ground as needed, going higher just means less stability. I would prefer to avoid rolling my JKU on it's side over gaining that "look at me, I'm high up in the air factor."
I'm going with 35's and decided the Mopar 2in lift was best for my needs. While the Mopar 2in lift is a pretty complete kit, like all kits out there, there was some room for further improvement. It came with CAM bolts and I don't like them as well, where I'm sure Geo correction brackets would work fine instead for my purposes, but I decided to add front adjustable Lower control arms instead. I also added the TF front adjustable Track Bar. I also got a set of Spyder trax 1.5in wheel spacers for just in case purposes. I'm not sure if I'll need/use the wheel spacers but I found a good set used for just in case purposes. Once I get this all installed, I'm going to be getting some front sway bar link quick disconnects. I won't have lockers for awhile and figured those are an inexspensive mod to better help keep both front wheels on the ground.
Last edited by Rednroll; 07-01-2016 at 09:25 AM.
07-01-2016, 09:24 AM
#36
Super Moderator
With those Racho brackets, it doesn't look like you lose the 1.5 inches of clearance space everyone seems to complain about with drop brackets. Is that correct? I looked at those previously, when they didn't have the adjustment holes. Nice, of them to add some adjustability.
Last edited by Rednroll; 07-01-2016 at 09:28 AM.
07-01-2016, 11:36 AM
#37
JK Newbie
Very different. The track bar in the kit is likely longer, and adjustable, so you would be able to recenter the axle once the Jeep is lifted - necessary no matter what. However, at 3-4", this puts the track bar and drag link at a significant enough angle that it will cause bump steer - when you hit a bump, the upward travel of the passenger wheel will cause movement in the drag link and thus the steering wheel.
In order to correct for this, the track bar bracket on the axle is raised and the drag link is flipped to the top of the knuckle. This does two things. One, it returns the track bar and drag link to a position more parallel to the ground, reducing or eliminating bump steer. Since the upward movement of the wheel will not cause a more pronounced movement in the drag link. And two, it raises the roll center of the Jeep. This is why a raised REAR track bar bracket is almost always included as part of any decent lift.
When you look at it from a geometry and mechanics perspective, it makes quite a bit of sense.
In order to correct for this, the track bar bracket on the axle is raised and the drag link is flipped to the top of the knuckle. This does two things. One, it returns the track bar and drag link to a position more parallel to the ground, reducing or eliminating bump steer. Since the upward movement of the wheel will not cause a more pronounced movement in the drag link. And two, it raises the roll center of the Jeep. This is why a raised REAR track bar bracket is almost always included as part of any decent lift.
When you look at it from a geometry and mechanics perspective, it makes quite a bit of sense.
"The MetalCloak JK Drag Link Flip Bracket is designed to be used with MetalCloak's Heavy Duty Drag Link when lifting your vehicle 4.5 inches or above. This bracket is sold as an option for those who have changed out for taller springs and need to correct steering geometry.
Note: All of MetalCloak's JK 4.5" Game Changing Suspension Systems comes with this bracket included. "
Just to clarify their description elsewhere on the same bracket says:
"Raises track bar to correct steering geometry in conjunction with the Drag-link flip hi-steer for use when lifting a Jeep JK over 4.5 inches, this bracket also incorporates a raised mount for the steering stabilizer for added protection!"
Last edited by TacticalTankJKUR; 07-01-2016 at 11:42 AM.
07-01-2016, 01:35 PM
#39
JK Jedi Master
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Just to add another viewpoint to the draglink flip debate - I was a bit over 4" actual lift for several years with no steering correction. Stock components. Steep angles. No bumpsteer. When I finally got around to a raised bracket and flip, what I noticed was a smoother, less jarring ride. No change in handling.
One of the benefits noted for the CA drop brackets is that running the ca's at flatter angles prevents road shocks from travelling up those bars into the frame. I imagine that is the same thing I experienced with the flip - bumps and road imperfections were travelling up the steeply angled trackbar and draglink instead of being absorbed through the coils/shocks. (don't think I have ever read anyone else comment on that, so just a hypothesis...)
One of the benefits noted for the CA drop brackets is that running the ca's at flatter angles prevents road shocks from travelling up those bars into the frame. I imagine that is the same thing I experienced with the flip - bumps and road imperfections were travelling up the steeply angled trackbar and draglink instead of being absorbed through the coils/shocks. (don't think I have ever read anyone else comment on that, so just a hypothesis...)
07-01-2016, 04:24 PM
#40
JK Super Freak
The thing to remember, is if you do a drag link flip, you have to either add bump stops to prevent the drag link from hitting the frame, or notch the frame. Currently, I am running extended bump stops. Hope to get the frame notch some time, though. I want the up travel. 35" tires and flat fenders, I have room to spare.