What do I need to purchase for 3.5" lift kit for JKU?
06-28-2016, 03:48 AM
#1
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What do I need to purchase for 3.5" lift kit for JKU?
I have been looking around for complete lift kits (preferable under $1,000) and was set to do the 3.5" pro comp lift kit with the es9000s until i found some poor reviews on the kit. I am finding that there is always something bad about each lift kit so thinking about just piecing a kit together. I was thinking fox shocks and steering stabilizer, rock krawler springs, but wasn't exactly sure about every component to a lift i will need.
What all do i need for a 3.5" lift? Is there a complete kit you would suggest for preferably under $1,000? My jeep is my daily driver and will be used off-road every other weekend or so.
Thanks all
What all do i need for a 3.5" lift? Is there a complete kit you would suggest for preferably under $1,000? My jeep is my daily driver and will be used off-road every other weekend or so.
Thanks all
06-28-2016, 03:52 AM
#2
JK Super Freak
Read TheDirtMan's sticky on lifts in this and many other forums. You'll find a lot of useful information in there.
For $1,000 - you'll never buy a "complete" lift that's not a piece of garbage.
For $1,000 - you'll never buy a "complete" lift that's not a piece of garbage.
06-28-2016, 04:20 AM
#4
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Stuff your list is missing:
Front track bar
Rear track bar bracket
Front lower control arms or control arm drop brackets (for caster)
Front and rear swaybar links
New brake lines or brake line drop brackets
Front and rear bumpstops
Would just be easier to buy a complete kit
Front track bar
Rear track bar bracket
Front lower control arms or control arm drop brackets (for caster)
Front and rear swaybar links
New brake lines or brake line drop brackets
Front and rear bumpstops
Would just be easier to buy a complete kit
06-28-2016, 04:22 AM
#5
Super Moderator
Fist off Welcome to JK forum.
Second before you go drop a bunch of dollars on a lift as mentioned by shutterbug read dirtman's write up on lifts. Lift kits are a personal preference because ride in 100% subjective. My recommendation is to find Jeepers in your local area running various lift kits and go for a ride and find what you like best.
For me I am running the EVO 3 inch plush ride coils with Rock Krawler front LCA's, Synergy tie rod and eventually the Synergy draglink flip. I have it just have not taken the time to install it. You can piece a lift together with various manufactures or get a complete kit.
As someone who had the Pro-Comp 2.5 inch lift with the ES9000 shocks, it took me about 6 months to realize why the lift was only $500, it is cheaply made and rough. Remember ride is 100% subjective.
The last thing anyone will tell you is that they wasted money on a purchase.
Good luck.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...-lifts-288269/
Second before you go drop a bunch of dollars on a lift as mentioned by shutterbug read dirtman's write up on lifts. Lift kits are a personal preference because ride in 100% subjective. My recommendation is to find Jeepers in your local area running various lift kits and go for a ride and find what you like best.
For me I am running the EVO 3 inch plush ride coils with Rock Krawler front LCA's, Synergy tie rod and eventually the Synergy draglink flip. I have it just have not taken the time to install it. You can piece a lift together with various manufactures or get a complete kit.
As someone who had the Pro-Comp 2.5 inch lift with the ES9000 shocks, it took me about 6 months to realize why the lift was only $500, it is cheaply made and rough. Remember ride is 100% subjective.
The last thing anyone will tell you is that they wasted money on a purchase.
Good luck.
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/modi...-lifts-288269/
06-28-2016, 04:56 AM
#6
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Some good info here, but I'll add my $.02:
For under $1000 you can pick up a Rock Krawler 2.5" Stock Mod, RK front adjustable track bar, rear track bar bracket, full set of Bilstein 5100 shocks and Crown Stainless brake lines, which you don't necessarily need if you have a 2011+ model Wrangler. Drop brackets will suffice for the rears and the stock fronts are long enough as long as you reroute them from their OEM mounting position that goes through the lower shock mounting point. I've been running this set-up for nearly 5 years now and have no complaints. I have of course added some additional things to it like a Synergy tie rod and drag link, Synergy ball joints, PSC steel flares, rear corners, and BFH rear bumper, GenRight steel carrier, knock of steel front stinger bumper, etc. and still haven't noticed any significant sag in the springs. And I run Nitto 37" tires, too.
So I suppose the first question is this: Why do you "need" a 3.5" lift? And....2dr or 4dr? Makes a difference. Really anything under 3" you should be fine on the driveshaft and pinion angle, so no hurry for replacing the driveshaft or control arms. I have not yet been able to justify replacement of either and I do wheel my Jeep.
First and foremost, though....read Dirtman's thread on lifts and then decide what your ultimate goal is. Then build from there. If you can't do exactly what you want for under $1000....save your pennies and do it when you can. But do yourself a favor and do it right the first time. If you need to buy a piece at a time.....do it that way. But buy something you can build on later, rather than something you'll want to replace.
Again....just my $.02 here.
For under $1000 you can pick up a Rock Krawler 2.5" Stock Mod, RK front adjustable track bar, rear track bar bracket, full set of Bilstein 5100 shocks and Crown Stainless brake lines, which you don't necessarily need if you have a 2011+ model Wrangler. Drop brackets will suffice for the rears and the stock fronts are long enough as long as you reroute them from their OEM mounting position that goes through the lower shock mounting point. I've been running this set-up for nearly 5 years now and have no complaints. I have of course added some additional things to it like a Synergy tie rod and drag link, Synergy ball joints, PSC steel flares, rear corners, and BFH rear bumper, GenRight steel carrier, knock of steel front stinger bumper, etc. and still haven't noticed any significant sag in the springs. And I run Nitto 37" tires, too.
So I suppose the first question is this: Why do you "need" a 3.5" lift? And....2dr or 4dr? Makes a difference. Really anything under 3" you should be fine on the driveshaft and pinion angle, so no hurry for replacing the driveshaft or control arms. I have not yet been able to justify replacement of either and I do wheel my Jeep.
First and foremost, though....read Dirtman's thread on lifts and then decide what your ultimate goal is. Then build from there. If you can't do exactly what you want for under $1000....save your pennies and do it when you can. But do yourself a favor and do it right the first time. If you need to buy a piece at a time.....do it that way. But buy something you can build on later, rather than something you'll want to replace.
Again....just my $.02 here.
06-28-2016, 05:13 AM
#7
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Some good info here, but I'll add my $.02:
For under $1000 you can pick up a Rock Krawler 2.5" Stock Mod, RK front adjustable track bar, rear track bar bracket, full set of Bilstein 5100 shocks and Crown Stainless brake lines, which you don't necessarily need if you have a 2011+ model Wrangler. Drop brackets will suffice for the rears and the stock fronts are long enough as long as you reroute them from their OEM mounting position that goes through the lower shock mounting point. I've been running this set-up for nearly 5 years now and have no complaints. I have of course added some additional things to it like a Synergy tie rod and drag link, Synergy ball joints, PSC steel flares, rear corners, and BFH rear bumper, GenRight steel carrier, knock of steel front stinger bumper, etc. and still haven't noticed any significant sag in the springs. And I run Nitto 37" tires, too.
So I suppose the first question is this: Why do you "need" a 3.5" lift? And....2dr or 4dr? Makes a difference. Really anything under 3" you should be fine on the driveshaft and pinion angle, so no hurry for replacing the driveshaft or control arms. I have not yet been able to justify replacement of either and I do wheel my Jeep.
First and foremost, though....read Dirtman's thread on lifts and then decide what your ultimate goal is. Then build from there. If you can't do exactly what you want for under $1000....save your pennies and do it when you can. But do yourself a favor and do it right the first time. If you need to buy a piece at a time.....do it that way. But buy something you can build on later, rather than something you'll want to replace.
Again....just my $.02 here.
For under $1000 you can pick up a Rock Krawler 2.5" Stock Mod, RK front adjustable track bar, rear track bar bracket, full set of Bilstein 5100 shocks and Crown Stainless brake lines, which you don't necessarily need if you have a 2011+ model Wrangler. Drop brackets will suffice for the rears and the stock fronts are long enough as long as you reroute them from their OEM mounting position that goes through the lower shock mounting point. I've been running this set-up for nearly 5 years now and have no complaints. I have of course added some additional things to it like a Synergy tie rod and drag link, Synergy ball joints, PSC steel flares, rear corners, and BFH rear bumper, GenRight steel carrier, knock of steel front stinger bumper, etc. and still haven't noticed any significant sag in the springs. And I run Nitto 37" tires, too.
So I suppose the first question is this: Why do you "need" a 3.5" lift? And....2dr or 4dr? Makes a difference. Really anything under 3" you should be fine on the driveshaft and pinion angle, so no hurry for replacing the driveshaft or control arms. I have not yet been able to justify replacement of either and I do wheel my Jeep.
First and foremost, though....read Dirtman's thread on lifts and then decide what your ultimate goal is. Then build from there. If you can't do exactly what you want for under $1000....save your pennies and do it when you can. But do yourself a favor and do it right the first time. If you need to buy a piece at a time.....do it that way. But buy something you can build on later, rather than something you'll want to replace.
Again....just my $.02 here.
I'd like to go with a 3.5" lift as I will be throwing 37" tires on. I have a 2016 4 door. I had a 2013 jku with a 3" lift and 35" tires when i was living down in Florida. It was perfect for mudding and such but I'd like to take it more rock crawling here in Maryland. I had to ditch the old rig because while it was Florida legal, it would not pass Maryland inspection and at the time i did not have my stock flares, wheels, bumpers and did not have the money at the time to buy parts just to get it to pass inspection.
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06-28-2016, 07:44 AM
#8
JK Jedi
Sorry you are not going to build a rock crawler on 37's at that height for $1000. Realistically plan on $4-7k. I am not trying to be mean but not sure why you would want to do that to a new vehicle either. Its your vehicle however. A jk locked on 35's will run the Rubicon trail or Moab all day long. Steep ledges and big waterfalls will be an issue on a JKU, and you will always find the steep climb you are not going to be able to do no matter what size tire you have. The risks of body damage and roll over are increase on these type of trails as well. In your area mud and slick rocks are common on the trails where traction or speed is needed to tackle the harder obstacles. Rock crawling 37's on factory axles is just asking for breakdowns on the trail. Good luck
06-29-2016, 05:49 AM
#9
JK Super Freak
To pick up on what TheDirtMan said.
No one is trying to burst your bubble, or come across conceited. Just giving you advice.
My first "lift" was a budget boost and I had a blast on that for a while. I figure out what I wanted and waited until I could afford it. I spent $2000 on my lift. I went with a Rock Krawler X-Factor. And I'm not done yet. I'm on 35's, but if I go to 37s it won't be until after I upgrade the front steering components (tie rod, drag link, hydro-assist).
Of course, that $2K didn't include front axle gussets, a truss, heavy-duty ball joints, drag link flip, etc.
It's a slippery slope. BUT, you can do it a little at a time, just do your research and do it right. On a new vehicle, that's a DD, I would think 37s would suck without a lot of other work (gears, caster correction, etc.)
Wishing you the best of luck. Keep asking questions. You'll get a lot of competing answers, so you'll have to separate the BS from the good ones.
No one is trying to burst your bubble, or come across conceited. Just giving you advice.
My first "lift" was a budget boost and I had a blast on that for a while. I figure out what I wanted and waited until I could afford it. I spent $2000 on my lift. I went with a Rock Krawler X-Factor. And I'm not done yet. I'm on 35's, but if I go to 37s it won't be until after I upgrade the front steering components (tie rod, drag link, hydro-assist).
Of course, that $2K didn't include front axle gussets, a truss, heavy-duty ball joints, drag link flip, etc.
It's a slippery slope. BUT, you can do it a little at a time, just do your research and do it right. On a new vehicle, that's a DD, I would think 37s would suck without a lot of other work (gears, caster correction, etc.)
Wishing you the best of luck. Keep asking questions. You'll get a lot of competing answers, so you'll have to separate the BS from the good ones.
06-29-2016, 06:04 AM
#10
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To pick up on what TheDirtMan said.
No one is trying to burst your bubble, or come across conceited. Just giving you advice.
My first "lift" was a budget boost and I had a blast on that for a while. I figure out what I wanted and waited until I could afford it. I spent $2000 on my lift. I went with a Rock Krawler X-Factor. And I'm not done yet. I'm on 35's, but if I go to 37s it won't be until after I upgrade the front steering components (tie rod, drag link, hydro-assist).
Of course, that $2K didn't include front axle gussets, a truss, heavy-duty ball joints, drag link flip, etc.
It's a slippery slope. BUT, you can do it a little at a time, just do your research and do it right. On a new vehicle, that's a DD, I would think 37s would suck without a lot of other work (gears, caster correction, etc.)
Wishing you the best of luck. Keep asking questions. You'll get a lot of competing answers, so you'll have to separate the BS from the good ones.
No one is trying to burst your bubble, or come across conceited. Just giving you advice.
My first "lift" was a budget boost and I had a blast on that for a while. I figure out what I wanted and waited until I could afford it. I spent $2000 on my lift. I went with a Rock Krawler X-Factor. And I'm not done yet. I'm on 35's, but if I go to 37s it won't be until after I upgrade the front steering components (tie rod, drag link, hydro-assist).
Of course, that $2K didn't include front axle gussets, a truss, heavy-duty ball joints, drag link flip, etc.
It's a slippery slope. BUT, you can do it a little at a time, just do your research and do it right. On a new vehicle, that's a DD, I would think 37s would suck without a lot of other work (gears, caster correction, etc.)
Wishing you the best of luck. Keep asking questions. You'll get a lot of competing answers, so you'll have to separate the BS from the good ones.
Yea, I appreciate everyone's feedback. To be honest just earlier this year I planned to purchase/build an AR-15 due to my state being difficult about everything guns. Originally started with about a $1,000 limit and that I would have the gun complete in a year. One week and $2,500+ later I had the gun complete and I have yet to shoot it!
Like everyone, I would certainly like to spend less but appreciate quality and rarely do I skimp on any purchase I make so I am sure my "$1,000" lift will turn into $$$.
I have settled on Toyo Open Country M/T tires 37x13.5x17 (other finalists were MT and Nitto but found the Toyo to be at a better price point and not any worse in quality).
Not sure on rims yet but was planning on 17x9's. I was thinking about mounting the tires on my stock 17x7's for the time being but need to look up the specs as I am not sure the tires will fit on that narrow of a rim.
BTW, thanks for the suggestion on DirtMan's post. It was a great/informative read.