speedy64vw

I have a 2011 sport with stock 3.73 gears and no upgrades to the axles yet. Im running Toyo 37s and ready to re-gear and start welding some gussets, etc.



Focusing on the rear axle for the time being...

Good used Rubi axle from unknown year and unknown mileage-



My questions are:

Should I regear and sleeve (or) truss this used rubi axle?
OR

Sell the used axle and go with an ARB with 35 spline shafts and regear my axle with only 10k miles?


Should I do sleeves or go with a truss or dont even worry about the rear axle mods? I like the homemade truss setup this guy did and would be easy for me to make and cheap... Opinions?




This is our only vehicle right now and wondering if I should go with 5.13s or take the jump and do the 5.38s? Currently stationed in west texas, but dont know for how long... Not much crawling yet, but once I get both axles addressed- roadtrips and camping will be our main use.

Thanks for any helpful input,

Tristan

SinsterJK

Ever thought about skipping the sleeves and just getting Chrome molly axles?

Grognard

I have a 2010 JKU Sport. When I faced the same decision, I went with a PR44 up front, and since I could not afford a D60 rear, went with 35spline rear shafts. I went with an ARB locker, and as that would act as my carrier, chose to go 35 spline. The shaft is noticeably beefier than 32 spline shafts. If you are adding a locker, I think this is something to really consider as you are changing the carrier anyway.

I went with 5.13s and really think that is a good setup for 35s on an auto after Moab this year. Think 5.38s would have been too low, and WOL may chime in and say the pinion on the 5.38s is smaller and a point of weakness.

nthinuf

See what you can get for selling them both and compare to the cost of a 60. (Both axles + the regear shouldn't be all that far off, if you get a 60 that let's you keep the 5x5 pattern.)

For the gears, are you planning on getting rid of the front 30 anytime soon? Last I heard, d30 5.38's aren't an option anymore, so unless you want to run 2wd for a while, 5.13's are it. (if they have gone back into production, and assuming this will only be a 'roadtrips and camping' rig and not a crawler, go for the 5.38's.)

speedy64vw

I want to be reasonable with my short/long term goals for the JK and a 60 for the rear isnt in the picture yet...I have a long list of other priorities before taking that jump.

What do you guys think about the truss pic? I like how its on the bottom and acts as a small skid...

I wish i could just swap the rubi locker and shafts over to my sport axle already in the jeep and run it like that for awhile!

nthinuf

The reason I mentioned the rear 60 is that I see them listed for around $3500 for the base models, which includes the gears and locker already set up. Haven't priced used JK rears, but maybe around $2000 for the pair? ($500 for yours and $1500 for the rubi?). Then add the cost of the rear regear you won't be paying for ($500-$1000 depending on your area?), and the cost of the truss/sleeves/whatever else -- and you could easily be in the 60 range...

Beefing your current housing? $1500+ for the 35sp locker/shafts, plus the gears, plus the truss, and I'd guess you are pushing the $2500 range?

Just suggesting a bit more research on the options before making the decision.

speedy64vw

Yeah, I will look in to them and see what I can find... Just like everybody else, it's hard to come up with a lump some of cash rather than just doing them in little bits.
Truck Fest is next weekend in Dallas!