you could have them shim your front bumper forward a little bit

 

as I posted in his post I think some of his problems with rubbing may be comming from his wheels....not ENOUGH back spacing could be hurting him. he did'nt say how wide his wheels are but with a 4" BS I'd bet if they put something like 4.5 to 5" BS that it would'nt hit the bumper...but then that is just a guess....especialy if his wheel is like a 9" or wider.....

 

Yeah that would help too,
i they recomend 4.5" of backspacing, and that really could solve your problem.

 

I really want to run 37"s. I read somewhere on here a while back about doing a 3" lift with a 1" body lift. Possibly to cut down on some of the mods. Do you think this is a viable solution? or is the 4" lift better and why? (May have been Eddie, WOL talking about a 2" lift with a 1" body lift?....)

 

Yeah, it can be done and it'll get you up on 37's for cheap but whether or not it's a "viable solution" depends a lot on how you would define "viable." I suppose if you were starting off with a very complete 3" lift like a Full Traction Ultimate Kit, it might be. But, if you were gonna try and do it with a basic 3" budget kit... well, let's just say you would also have to be willing to accept some sacrifices in ride quality, handling, flex and overall performace.

 

Does anyone really know if the caster bolts do anything on the Superlift kit? Way, you seem to be pretty knowledgable about the Full Traction kits, do you know anything about this? I would have to think that the 4 inch superlift on an unlimited would be as nice or better to drive than my TJ on a 3.5 rubicon express kit that was really only springs and shocks.

 

I finished installing my 4" superlift this week, the only rub issue is with the front lower dust shield, which is easy to trim. The concentric bolts for your lower arms will allow you to adjust out to around 3.4 caster, but you have to remove the knockouts on the axle. I am running Walker Evans wheels with 4.5" backspacing and Toyo 37" MT's.

Mike

 

What do you mean when you say "knock outs" ??? Are they some sort of sleeve in the control arm bracket? Mine is on order so I have very little to work with, only vague memories of a TJ years ago (not to mention the countless cherokees between).

 

There is a slotted knockout in the mount where your lower trailing arms connect, you have to remove this this allow the axle to move forward. Most alignment shops will take care of this for you, I would install a grade 5 or better bolt in place of the concentrics and let the alignment shop change them out when they align it. The reason for this is, the concentrics are plated and wanted to gald when removed.

Mike

 

That's pretty much what I thought. How does the jeep track? You'll have to let us know how she flexes, and if you experience sagging.