The real question here is what is your intended usage of your rig?

If you plan on doing any serious wheeling I highly recommend saving up a bit more and getting the X-Factor system. Granted you can always upgrade however it is cheaper in the long run to purchase the full kit as you do have a cost savings. I am not a fan of doing things twice so it is much better to think about what you want to use the rig for and then decide what is the right kit for you.

 

Extended brake lines.

 

Thanks all. I honestly don't know how I'll be using the rig just yet. I'll definitely be doing (and have done) some light wheeling and would LOVE to take a longer back-country trip (like the WABDR or other Pac NW "expedition")...and maybe down to MOAB or other for some of the less extreme wheeling there . I'd rather have more capability than less but I really was not hoping to go larger than 2.5" on the 2DR since that nets to 3"-4" depending on the overall weight of the vehicle. I use this 90% on the road and maybe 10% off so daily driveablity is a big factor too.

Here is my revised list (UCAs are currently listed as potentially optional*):

• Rock Krawler 2.5 Flex Kit
• Fox 2.0 bumpstops
• Rear extended brake lines
• 9/16" Grade 8 Bolt upgrade
• Upper Control Arms*
• Spring retainer clips

Oh man, I think more and more $ signs keeps showing up...

 

Fox bumpstops? Do you mean shocks?

 

Actually, no. I already have the Fox 2.0 2"-4" shocks. Was looking to get the Fox 2.0 bumpstops to go along with them (that's assuming that the sizing is correct for the RK 2.5" Kit)

 

Ahhh, ok... thought you were talking about traditional bump stops, like these:
http://www.rockkrawler.com/pages/cat...p?r_itemID=356
And these:
http://www.rockkrawler.com/pages/cat...p?r_itemID=355

 

You, like me, have a 2012 2 door. You would be looking for adjustable rear upper control arms. RK has them. You will need this to ensure your rear pinion is in alignment with the driveshaft correctly. If not, you may end up with severe vibration issues. Further, if bad enough, you could end up damaging the drive shaft, pinion, or the output from the transmission.

When I did my lift, which was a Teraflex 2.5 inch coil lift, plus 1/2 inch front spacers, and 1 inch rear spacers, not only did I do the rear upper adjustable control arms and front lower adjustable control arms, but I also replaced front and rear driveshafts with 1310, double cardan units. At some point, you will need to do this as well, as the 2 door is more susceptible to issues when lifted than the 4 door.

If you use the search function, you can see a lot of good info on what to look for and what to include to ensure your rig is built correctly from the get go, and does not have any issues. Some folks claim they have no issues when they do these lifts and dont do adjustable control arms, but if you look at the driveshaft angles after your lift, especially on a 2 door, you will see that the angles are extreme when flexed out, and if you dont have the right set up, its a matter of time before you end up stranded. Hopefully its not on the trail somewhere.

Good luck with your build.

 

Im not sure if your alignment shop set the toe in or not, but 1/8 inch toe in is the spec when running a lift and 35's. You may want to ask if they did a toe in adjustment and what they set it at.

 

Ok, thanks, I'll definitely ask! I actually got my alignment from my dealership, so hopefully they knew about the required Toe In. (They included a free post-lift alignment as one of the incentives to buy the Jeep even though I installed the lift myself )