Wanting to Join the 37's Club ;)
08-07-2016, 07:29 PM
#21
JK Freak
G2 has a rear http://www.quadratec.com/products/52467_103X_PG.htm
Everyone thinks they need 60s & 40 but smart wheeling and 35s will do most people good. I've seen guys come out with built jeeps and then pick easy lines or take 10 times as long on an obstacle because they can't wheel. Run what you brought and enjoy!
Last edited by Joe_B; 08-07-2016 at 07:32 PM.
08-07-2016, 07:48 PM
#22
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I run a 30/44 combo on 37s both are locked, front has c gussets and a truss. Axleshafts are spicer with the 1350 u-joint since I blew the stock ones. I've been in these ones for about a year with no problems. I also have 4.88 gears. I've blew up 2 front/1 rear set of 3.73s when I was on 35s. As far as what everyone is always concerned about (R/P, axleshafts) I'm not too worried. The real downside I've had with stock axles is extreme premature wear of unit bearings and balljoints. Those aren't upgraded when you go to a aftermarket 44. I've done all my own work and am running a $150 Aussie up front so I feel it's been a solid approach for me. I'll eventually build 1-tons but this has gotten me by great so far. I wheel my jeep pretty hard but I will say I'm on the east coast. I've never been out west so I can't say for certain, but I've heard the traction on rocks is much greater out there. Maybe that's why my 30 survives, idk.
Nice valid points. I think i am gonna decided to buy my axles, it would probably be about 8k for HD dana 44s front and rear already custom build with chromo shafts, lockers, gearing and thicker tubing as well as the housing. Just personal preference of not having to take my JK to a shop for regearing/locker install because the cost would probably be the same in the end. I would say I am mechanically inclined, but by no means do I know everything. Based of what you are saying I will probably have to upgrade the Aftermarket HD D44s axles off with HD ball joints. I will still probably upgrade to HD steering Knuckles and putting C's on them just for insurance. Did you have to change out your driveshafts? what kind of lift you are running w/ 37s? How about steering components?
Any Pics????
08-07-2016, 07:58 PM
#23
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Replacing the rear 44 with an aftermarket 44 is useless. Some have spun the tubes but that's a simple fix a welder will take care of. The rear 44 is a decent axle. The aftermarket front 44s would be nice if they didn't cost so much. The housings are built like a rock but you still have stock outers which is not worth the $5K upgrade. Run what you have and you'll realize what you need. You might be just fine or you might break on your first run. No one knows how you wheel or what you wheel.
Everyone thinks they need 60s & 40 but smart wheeling and 35s will do most people good. I've seen guys come out with built jeeps and then pick easy lines or take 10 times as long on an obstacle because they can't wheel. Run what you brought and enjoy!
Everyone thinks they need 60s & 40 but smart wheeling and 35s will do most people good. I've seen guys come out with built jeeps and then pick easy lines or take 10 times as long on an obstacle because they can't wheel. Run what you brought and enjoy!
08-08-2016, 02:09 AM
#24
I'm running an Adams rear double cardan and the stock driveshaft up front. It's a RK 3.5", steering components I'm running teraflex balljoints, 1.5" Dom tie rod with ruff stuff 1-ton ends (same as on their website except I already had the Dom) a drag link flip with artec trackbar mount and a homemade drag link I built by cutting up 2 stock bars, the stock adjuster, sleeving them, and then using moog ends.
Last edited by Chuck-The-Ripper; 08-08-2016 at 02:13 AM.
08-08-2016, 06:54 AM
#25
JK Jedi
If you drop $8k on dana 44 axles you are going to regret it dow the line as you will keep the weakest points the factory axles have. Just like the mistake a lot of people make going with 33's thinking they will never go bigger then that but want the look of a bigger tire. They tend to get tire envy when they see 35's or 37' on other people rigs and feel inadequate. On the front the weak points are the unit bearings and ball joints on the rear it is the semi float and shaft that you are going to bend with the weight of the JKU and the leverage you are going to put on them with extra width. Width is another thing people ignore (or don't understand) and going with wider axles and less back spacing on the wheels will take some of the stress off the ball joints, unit bearings, and rear flanges. If you end up going with after market axles make sure they are caster corrected for the lift height you are running as well. I don't think anyone has mentioned that either.
You say you want to run trails and not break anything, so does everyone else but if you run trails you should expect to break things and 37's on semi float dana 44's are just a ticking time bomb not a bullet proof solution. Chuck is right about wheeling differences, in the dessert south west rocks are rougher and you typically get more traction, I would say you do more technical driving out here. While the traction is better not he rocks, the rocks tend to move on you while you are climbing them. In Moab the ground is like sandpaper and you have tons of traction and a simple set up, properly gear does most trails with ease. In the midwest and east coast you have to deal with slick rocks and mud where tires are key and gearing and lockers should be added depending on the level of trails you are running
Most people break stuff on the trail because they one, don't know how to drive off road, and two, don't have their rig set up properly with things like gearing and lockers and try too hard of a trail where they have to ramp up speed to get momentum to get over the obstacle or get on a steep incline and bounce the jeep. Do people wheel on 37's and the stock axles? Sure they do and most will tell you how they never break then, until they do. I saw a guy once post up that 40's on a dana 30 with 3.21 gearing was not that bad. He only had limited steering because he had to add quite a bit to the steering stops and ended up trading in that jeep for a new one about a month later.
There are also dozen of threads on this and other JK forums that go over just what you are asking and the conversations go about the same way. You might want to do a search of some of these older threads and see where these people are at now with their builds. I typically give the advise that running 37's on a daily driver is dumb and upgrading the dana 30 and even the 44's are generally a waste of money. And yes I feel the same about the pro rock 44. The best thing you get out of it is the caster correction but never recommend anyone actually doing a pro rock 44 upgrade. If you must run 37's for looks just bolt them on and get AAA so you can take advantage of that free tow and budget for more maintenance and the drop in fuel economy. Fix the stuff you break when you break it.
Good luck.
You say you want to run trails and not break anything, so does everyone else but if you run trails you should expect to break things and 37's on semi float dana 44's are just a ticking time bomb not a bullet proof solution. Chuck is right about wheeling differences, in the dessert south west rocks are rougher and you typically get more traction, I would say you do more technical driving out here. While the traction is better not he rocks, the rocks tend to move on you while you are climbing them. In Moab the ground is like sandpaper and you have tons of traction and a simple set up, properly gear does most trails with ease. In the midwest and east coast you have to deal with slick rocks and mud where tires are key and gearing and lockers should be added depending on the level of trails you are running
Most people break stuff on the trail because they one, don't know how to drive off road, and two, don't have their rig set up properly with things like gearing and lockers and try too hard of a trail where they have to ramp up speed to get momentum to get over the obstacle or get on a steep incline and bounce the jeep. Do people wheel on 37's and the stock axles? Sure they do and most will tell you how they never break then, until they do. I saw a guy once post up that 40's on a dana 30 with 3.21 gearing was not that bad. He only had limited steering because he had to add quite a bit to the steering stops and ended up trading in that jeep for a new one about a month later.
There are also dozen of threads on this and other JK forums that go over just what you are asking and the conversations go about the same way. You might want to do a search of some of these older threads and see where these people are at now with their builds. I typically give the advise that running 37's on a daily driver is dumb and upgrading the dana 30 and even the 44's are generally a waste of money. And yes I feel the same about the pro rock 44. The best thing you get out of it is the caster correction but never recommend anyone actually doing a pro rock 44 upgrade. If you must run 37's for looks just bolt them on and get AAA so you can take advantage of that free tow and budget for more maintenance and the drop in fuel economy. Fix the stuff you break when you break it.
Good luck.
08-08-2016, 06:58 AM
#26
JK Freak
Chuck, those pictures can't be yours! They aren't all covered in mud while being worked on!
I would say that with a $16,000 to $20,000 budget, you can put something together nicely for a "high reliability" 37" tire rig.
High Steer flip, ProRock (or similar, maybe 1-tons) 44/60 axle housings with added caster, Eaton E-Lockers, RCV front shafts, RCV or Ten Factory rear shafts, ram assist, Synergy (or similar) steering parts including ball joints, adjustable (stronger) arms, 3.5" offset wheels, 4.88 gears (for a 3.6L), drive shafts front and rear... that should get you into the realm I hope.
I would say that with a $16,000 to $20,000 budget, you can put something together nicely for a "high reliability" 37" tire rig.
High Steer flip, ProRock (or similar, maybe 1-tons) 44/60 axle housings with added caster, Eaton E-Lockers, RCV front shafts, RCV or Ten Factory rear shafts, ram assist, Synergy (or similar) steering parts including ball joints, adjustable (stronger) arms, 3.5" offset wheels, 4.88 gears (for a 3.6L), drive shafts front and rear... that should get you into the realm I hope.
08-08-2016, 07:15 AM
#27
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Chuck, those pictures can't be yours! They aren't all covered in mud while being worked on!
I would say that with a $16,000 to $20,000 budget, you can put something together nicely for a "high reliability" 37" tire rig.
High Steer flip, ProRock (or similar, maybe 1-tons) 44/60 axle housings with added caster, Eaton E-Lockers, RCV front shafts, RCV or Ten Factory rear shafts, ram assist, Synergy (or similar) steering parts including ball joints, adjustable (stronger) arms, 3.5" offset wheels, 4.88 gears (for a 3.6L), drive shafts front and rear... that should get you into the realm I hope.
I would say that with a $16,000 to $20,000 budget, you can put something together nicely for a "high reliability" 37" tire rig.
High Steer flip, ProRock (or similar, maybe 1-tons) 44/60 axle housings with added caster, Eaton E-Lockers, RCV front shafts, RCV or Ten Factory rear shafts, ram assist, Synergy (or similar) steering parts including ball joints, adjustable (stronger) arms, 3.5" offset wheels, 4.88 gears (for a 3.6L), drive shafts front and rear... that should get you into the realm I hope.
08-08-2016, 07:35 AM
#28
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If you drop $8k on dana 44 axles you are going to regret it dow the line as you will keep the weakest points the factory axles have. Just like the mistake a lot of people make going with 33's thinking they will never go bigger then that but want the look of a bigger tire. They tend to get tire envy when they see 35's or 37' on other people rigs and feel inadequate. On the front the weak points are the unit bearings and ball joints on the rear it is the semi float and shaft that you are going to bend with the weight of the JKU and the leverage you are going to put on them with extra width. Width is another thing people ignore (or don't understand) and going with wider axles and less back spacing on the wheels will take some of the stress off the ball joints, unit bearings, and rear flanges. If you end up going with after market axles make sure they are caster corrected for the lift height you are running as well. I don't think anyone has mentioned that either.
You say you want to run trails and not break anything, so does everyone else but if you run trails you should expect to break things and 37's on semi float dana 44's are just a ticking time bomb not a bullet proof solution. Chuck is right about wheeling differences, in the dessert south west rocks are rougher and you typically get more traction, I would say you do more technical driving out here. While the traction is better not he rocks, the rocks tend to move on you while you are climbing them. In Moab the ground is like sandpaper and you have tons of traction and a simple set up, properly gear does most trails with ease. In the midwest and east coast you have to deal with slick rocks and mud where tires are key and gearing and lockers should be added depending on the level of trails you are running
Most people break stuff on the trail because they one, don't know how to drive off road, and two, don't have their rig set up properly with things like gearing and lockers and try too hard of a trail where they have to ramp up speed to get momentum to get over the obstacle or get on a steep incline and bounce the jeep. Do people wheel on 37's and the stock axles? Sure they do and most will tell you how they never break then, until they do. I saw a guy once post up that 40's on a dana 30 with 3.21 gearing was not that bad. He only had limited steering because he had to add quite a bit to the steering stops and ended up trading in that jeep for a new one about a month later.
There are also dozen of threads on this and other JK forums that go over just what you are asking and the conversations go about the same way. You might want to do a search of some of these older threads and see where these people are at now with their builds. I typically give the advise that running 37's on a daily driver is dumb and upgrading the dana 30 and even the 44's are generally a waste of money. And yes I feel the same about the pro rock 44. The best thing you get out of it is the caster correction but never recommend anyone actually doing a pro rock 44 upgrade. If you must run 37's for looks just bolt them on and get AAA so you can take advantage of that free tow and budget for more maintenance and the drop in fuel economy. Fix the stuff you break when you break it.
Good luck.
You say you want to run trails and not break anything, so does everyone else but if you run trails you should expect to break things and 37's on semi float dana 44's are just a ticking time bomb not a bullet proof solution. Chuck is right about wheeling differences, in the dessert south west rocks are rougher and you typically get more traction, I would say you do more technical driving out here. While the traction is better not he rocks, the rocks tend to move on you while you are climbing them. In Moab the ground is like sandpaper and you have tons of traction and a simple set up, properly gear does most trails with ease. In the midwest and east coast you have to deal with slick rocks and mud where tires are key and gearing and lockers should be added depending on the level of trails you are running
Most people break stuff on the trail because they one, don't know how to drive off road, and two, don't have their rig set up properly with things like gearing and lockers and try too hard of a trail where they have to ramp up speed to get momentum to get over the obstacle or get on a steep incline and bounce the jeep. Do people wheel on 37's and the stock axles? Sure they do and most will tell you how they never break then, until they do. I saw a guy once post up that 40's on a dana 30 with 3.21 gearing was not that bad. He only had limited steering because he had to add quite a bit to the steering stops and ended up trading in that jeep for a new one about a month later.
There are also dozen of threads on this and other JK forums that go over just what you are asking and the conversations go about the same way. You might want to do a search of some of these older threads and see where these people are at now with their builds. I typically give the advise that running 37's on a daily driver is dumb and upgrading the dana 30 and even the 44's are generally a waste of money. And yes I feel the same about the pro rock 44. The best thing you get out of it is the caster correction but never recommend anyone actually doing a pro rock 44 upgrade. If you must run 37's for looks just bolt them on and get AAA so you can take advantage of that free tow and budget for more maintenance and the drop in fuel economy. Fix the stuff you break when you break it.
Good luck.
Ok I respect your opinion, but the 8k on axles is front and rear HD/D44s thicker than tubing, housing, trac-bar bracket and C's than OEM. also included (at least what they claim) 5.13 Gears, E-Lockers and has options for the correct caster angle for a 4' lift. By all means I love my JK and how it sits now, but I like upgrading that why I am stretching this project out and doing my homework
. me personally I dont like the look of 35's I have seen pictures and up close. Far as you comments about weakness, G2 Front Dana 44 claims to address the weak points of the axle, and I have already decided to replace those shitty ball joints with HD ones as well as HD Knuckles. with the Rear weakness being semi-float, do you think the set up of HD D44/60FF would fix that issue? Also I restate my comment about being bulletproof, its more so the benefits of one axle vs another axle. My goal for 37's is functionality when I need it and looks 
. My JK is only 9 months old, (November 2015) who know what trails or events I will travel to later down the road. The entire point of this thread is to have 37's on my JK where is would last, without destroying itself without hard wheeling. Thanks for you input though
08-08-2016, 08:00 AM
#29
JK Jedi
Seems like you think know what you are doing, really don't know why you even stated this post. A full float rear would solve the issue of bend flanges but with a factory style front 44 unit bearing you will be running two different bolt patterns on the wheels but I am sure you know that already. You can believe all the marketing hype on the Made in China G2 axles but they still use the same unit bearings and same size ball joints. Replacement HD ball have proven over time not to help and most have come to the conclusion that they are just going to have to replace every year or two.
08-08-2016, 08:25 AM
#30
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Seems like you think know what you are doing, really don't know why you even stated this post. A full float rear would solve the issue of bend flanges but with a factory style front 44 unit bearing you will be running two different bolt patterns on the wheels but I am sure you know that already. You can believe all the marketing hype on the Made in China G2 axles but they still use the same unit bearings and same size ball joints. Replacement HD ball have proven over time not to help and most have come to the conclusion that they are just going to have to replace every year or two.
That's why I am doing research on what would work best, and I know some companies talk out of their asses that is the scary part about it. I started this post for what you and everyone else has been saying about going to 37's and it has helped me because I don t know everything. I needed to know what I could do far as going to 37's and the upgrades I would need to accommodate the tires.