Want to eliminate or reduce stearing wheel shimmy.
#21
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If the road is smooth there is no problems, if hitting bumps with both fronts at the same time there is no problem.
when hitting bumps and holes with only one front wheel at a time i will get bump steer and the stearing wheel may wobble back and forth a few times at least a 1/2 inch.
when hitting bumps and holes with only one front wheel at a time i will get bump steer and the stearing wheel may wobble back and forth a few times at least a 1/2 inch.
#22
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either there is too much tire psi, or the tires are exposing other issues in the steering and suspension.
One common mistake that installers make with jeeps is that they do not loosen all the trackbar and control arm bolts when installing a lift or leveling kit and wait to retorque all the bolts until the vehicle is on the ground with the tires/wheels on at the new ride height.
The control arm and trackbar end bushings have sleeves in them for the bolts to go through. When these components are torqued, the brackets pinch the sleeves and bushings at the height and angle in which the bolts are torqued.
If they are torqued at the wrong ride height/angle, there is significant pre-loading/binding/twisting of the bushings, sleeves, and brackets.
This will cause weird handling and shimmies as well.
It is kind of like being forced to go running on your tip toes instead of flat footed--you cannot run as solidly, and eventually, your calves will give out.
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One common mistake that installers make with jeeps is that they do not loosen all the trackbar and control arm bolts when installing a lift or leveling kit and wait to retorque all the bolts until the vehicle is on the ground with the tires/wheels on at the new ride height.
The control arm and trackbar end bushings have sleeves in them for the bolts to go through. When these components are torqued, the brackets pinch the sleeves and bushings at the height and angle in which the bolts are torqued.
If they are torqued at the wrong ride height/angle, there is significant pre-loading/binding/twisting of the bushings, sleeves, and brackets.
This will cause weird handling and shimmies as well.
It is kind of like being forced to go running on your tip toes instead of flat footed--you cannot run as solidly, and eventually, your calves will give out.
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#24
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then something is wrong with the tires.
You can run 2.5" net backspaced wheels with 33"-40" tires with no shimmy issues.
Check out mkjeep's posts on running 4" backspaced wheels with 1.5" spidertrax wheel spacers with 35s, then 37s.
Then, check out my posts running 40s on 4.5" backspaced wheels with 1.5" spidertrax wheel spacers.
There is no logical explanation as to why a wider track by itself would cause a shimmy--unless you are getting caught in highway semi truck lane grooves.
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You can run 2.5" net backspaced wheels with 33"-40" tires with no shimmy issues.
Check out mkjeep's posts on running 4" backspaced wheels with 1.5" spidertrax wheel spacers with 35s, then 37s.
Then, check out my posts running 40s on 4.5" backspaced wheels with 1.5" spidertrax wheel spacers.
There is no logical explanation as to why a wider track by itself would cause a shimmy--unless you are getting caught in highway semi truck lane grooves.
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