Notices
Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

PLEASE DO NOT START SHOW & TELL TYPE THREADS IN THIS FORUM

VIOLENT shaking if I hit a big bump at highway speeds.

Thread Tools
 
Old 12-22-2013, 08:44 AM
  #11  
JK Junkie

 
kjeeper10's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: CT
Posts: 3,440
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Check Synergy. Well known and the same price I believe.
Old 12-22-2013, 09:39 AM
  #12  
Forum Tech Advisor
 
planman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 1,208
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Trauma
So I have posted about this problem before, its been going on a for months now and I still cannot locate the source. My specs are 2011 JKU sport 44,000 miles, 30,000 on the lift. Rock Krawler 2.5" stock mod kit Bilstein 5100s Rough country sway discos Also I have NEVER had a professional wheel alignment on the vehicle, (not even after the lift) probably a mistake. So what is happening is not what I believe to be death wobble. It really doesn't happen often but when it does it is pretty terrifying. While driving at highway speeds, if I hit a large bump (usually a sewer grate on the end lane) the jeep goes nuts. It starts violently shaking all over the place to the point that I feel like a tire is going to snap off. It persists for maybe 4-6 seconds and then the jeep steadies itself and carries on as usual. I have no idea what could be causing this, but it did start almost immediately after I messed with the "toe in" to try to align my tires myself. That may be entirely coincidental though I really didn't change that much. I also did check the ball joints and I am assuming I need to replace those too. They have about 1/16" of play in the uppers but would that really cause such violent occurrences? My steering feels fine at all other times so I don't think it would be the stabilizer either? Please help! I know if I go to a mechanic they will try and get me to replace half the front end.
What you describe is exactly what death wobble is.

Most likely, you haven't retorqued your front trackbar bolts at every oil change interval and they have damaged/ovaled your trackbar bracket bolt holes after loosening up.

Or, you didn't retorque your control arm and trackbar bolts after every major wheeling trip, and they are out of spec.

If you did not loosen your trackbar and control arm bolts for your lift install and wait to retorque them until after the full weight of the vehicle was back on the ground at the new ride height to ensure your bushings were not twisted/preloaded/binding to the wrong ride height, this will cause premature failure of the control arm and trackbar bushings.

These types of things may be aggravated by too much to too little toe-in.

Have you watched the videos and read the first posts in my Diagnosing Death Wobble write-up thread linked below in my signature?

Last edited by planman; 12-22-2013 at 10:04 AM.
Old 12-22-2013, 11:54 AM
  #13  
JK Freak
Thread Starter
 
Trauma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 507
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by planman
Have you watched the videos and read the first posts in my Diagnosing Death Wobble write-up thread linked below in my signature?
I actually used your video to determine my ball joints were worn.

My Trackbar isn't ovaled out I actually just replaced the entire heim end on it because it was squeeking. I loosened all bolts when the lift was installed on Trackbar and control arms and have checked them periodically.
Old 12-22-2013, 01:26 PM
  #14  
JK Freak
Thread Starter
 
Trauma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 507
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I ordered the ball joints. Figure I may as well start with the obviously in need of replacement parts and go from there.

Synergy was twice the price I found some good things said about the alloys.
Old 12-22-2013, 04:51 PM
  #15  
JK Newbie
 
Duff75's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Newport news va
Posts: 17
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I used plan mans videos and advice to solve the exact issue you mentioned, what I did was replaced the draglink, tie rod and track bar. Plus ball joints and all bolts in the lower control arms, track bars, plus the sway bar linkage. Plus shocks and steering stabalizer. The only thing that was not showing signs of damage was the sway bar links, and the LCA rear and rear track bar. Lower ball joints trashed. The oval ing in the track bar bracket may not be noticeable to the eye but if you measure you will find you most likely have it starting. I can not thank this site and the help they provided me. You don't have to get it aligned at a shop but for 170 bucks I can take my jeep in every week if needed or desired to ensure I am good Firestone offers lifetime alignments. Which also saved me a lot of time and a record of issues that might be starting before it gets too bad! Just my 2 cents
Old 12-22-2013, 05:11 PM
  #16  
Forum Tech Advisor
 
planman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 1,208
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Duff75
I used plan mans videos and advice to solve the exact issue you mentioned, what I did was replaced the draglink, tie rod and track bar. Plus ball joints and all bolts in the lower control arms, track bars, plus the sway bar linkage. Plus shocks and steering stabalizer. The only thing that was not showing signs of damage was the sway bar links, and the LCA rear and rear track bar. Lower ball joints trashed. The oval ing in the track bar bracket may not be noticeable to the eye but if you measure you will find you most likely have it starting. I can not thank this site and the help they provided me. You don't have to get it aligned at a shop but for 170 bucks I can take my jeep in every week if needed or desired to ensure I am good Firestone offers lifetime alignments. Which also saved me a lot of time and a record of issues that might be starting before it gets too bad! Just my 2 cents
Glad to help. Yours is a great success story.
Old 12-22-2013, 07:58 PM
  #17  
JK Freak
Thread Starter
 
Trauma's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Long Island, NY
Posts: 507
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Duff75
I used plan mans videos and advice to solve the exact issue you mentioned, what I did was replaced the draglink, tie rod and track bar. Plus ball joints and all bolts in the lower control arms, track bars, plus the sway bar linkage. Plus shocks and steering stabalizer. The only thing that was not showing signs of damage was the sway bar links, and the LCA rear and rear track bar. Lower ball joints trashed. The oval ing in the track bar bracket may not be noticeable to the eye but if you measure you will find you most likely have it starting. I can not thank this site and the help they provided me. You don't have to get it aligned at a shop but for 170 bucks I can take my jeep in every week if needed or desired to ensure I am good Firestone offers lifetime alignments. Which also saved me a lot of time and a record of issues that might be starting before it gets too bad! Just my 2 cents
If I have to replace all that, I'm bringing to the nearest dealership and trading in for a new jeep... Thats a solid down payment right there.
Old 12-22-2013, 08:14 PM
  #18  
JK Junkie
 
Jeepstin12's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 2,482
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

Originally Posted by Trauma
If I have to replace all that, I'm bringing to the nearest dealership and trading in for a new jeep... Thats a solid down payment right there.
if you plan on lifting the new one, you'll be reviewing the same components. Choose wisely.
Old 12-22-2013, 09:02 PM
  #19  
Forum Tech Advisor
 
planman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Billings, MT
Posts: 1,208
Likes: 0
Received 7 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Trauma
If I have to replace all that, I'm bringing to the nearest dealership and trading in for a new jeep... Thats a solid down payment right there.
If you destroyed as much as he did:

Synergy ball joints, $200
Synergy drag link, $200
Synergy tie rod, $325
JKS trackbar, $190
quality pair of front shocks, $160
Axle side front upper control arm bushings, $80
quality steering stablizer, $60
weld grade 8 washers over trackbar holes, $100
Old 12-23-2013, 04:37 AM
  #20  
JK Super Freak
 
jeeperjkjeeper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Great Lakes
Posts: 1,891
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes on 5 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by planman
If you destroyed as much as he did:

Synergy ball joints, $200
Synergy drag link, $200
Synergy tie rod, $325
JKS trackbar, $190
quality pair of front shocks, $160
Axle side front upper control arm bushings, $80
quality steering stablizer, $60
weld grade 8 washers over trackbar holes, $100
Planman...is there a reason you prefer the JKS trackbar over the Synergy? I am looking to replace my RK trackbar and have all of the other Synergy components waiting to be installed. I want a trackbar that will be compatible with the Poly sectorshaft/trackbar brace in the future.


Quick Reply: VIOLENT shaking if I hit a big bump at highway speeds.



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 05:30 AM.