kflash

After weeks of messing with my front driveshaft thinking it was the source of my 50 -60 mph rubble strip vibration, swapped out the rear for the stock driveshaft and WOW, smooooooth. No more vibration.

The shafts are JE Reels OE replacement 1310 shafts and only had about 1000 miles on them. I am currently running a 3 inch teraflex lift with full control arms and have the rear pinion set in line with the driveshaft. This adjustment was set before the JE Reels went on, so there wasn't a period of time where the angle was not set correctly.

After pulling the shaft, I noticed that the universal joint at the one end had what looked like little bearings (needle bearings?) poking out from under the rubber ring on one of the joint ears. That is what is in the picture below.

So, what do you all think? If my angles are set right, was this probably only a bad universal? Has anyone had this problem before?

JE Reel has asked me to send back the shaft which I did ($45) via UPS. Hoping to haggle with them on that return charge. Other than that, they state they fully support their projucts and will do a total overhaul and rebalance.

rocknredrubi

Can say the shafts I got from reel were crap - vibrate at 60+. I went to a local drive line shop and got proper shafts for about 30% less. Reel told me the same thing - send them back and they will decide what is fair. Do a search. Lots of people are having problems with reel shafts.

kflash

I guess I didn't get the same feelings about the JE Reel shafts when searching the forums.

With the stock shaft back on now and a day of driving, I am still not sure whether I have hit the mark with the source of vibration. Although the stock shaft is providing a really smooth ride when accelerating up though the 50 - 60 mph range, if I let off the gas in that speed range and then press back on, I get the slight osscillatory vibration.

I am just wondering whether the style of the stock shaft is masking another issue.

I put the rear up on jack stands (with front wheels chocked!) an put the jeep in drive. Though you can't hit the gas with the wheels off the ground (computer won't let you), it was enough to spin the tires. I was looking for anything that seemed to not be spinning straight. The only thing I noticed was a minor eliptical spin of the transfer case flange. I only continue to speculate, but could that be the cause, and why would it all of a sudden start to do it?

Sorry for continuing to post, but I just can't seem to get this thing right and am getting frustrated. My JE Reel shaft is currently back to the company for an overhaul.

blazer4949

I just had the Full Flex 3" Teraflex installed with a new Rubicon front driveshaft added.
I, too, have the vibration. Had change in the holder just in front of the transmission
shifter, and WoW, the coins made so much noise I had to remove all the coins.
So.....also very frustrated.
Does the front driveshaft rotate, when driving normal??
Could the problem be my rear driveshaft which is still stock??
Any ideas??
Thanks

kflash

I am waiting for my rear driveshaft to come back from JE Reel. I currently have the stock shaft on and with a week of driving, I still have the vibration between 50 - 60mph. When the shaft returns, I plan to pull the stock rear and drive the jeep in 4wd just long enough to see if the vibration changes. If it is still there I am back to either the tires or something higher in the driveline. I agree it is a little frustrating...but short of going back to stock (which isn't an option) we'll just have to keep working on it.

The front driveshaft does spin, but only due to its attachment to the front diff. It is only under torque from the xfer case when in 4wd.

rocknredrubi

On another forum there is someone that had a "difficult to isolate" vibration that finally got fixed by balancing the drive shafts with the yokes attached. My local 4x4 shop said they have had to do that a couple times on TJs. If you eliminate everything else, might be worth a shot.

blazer4949

Took my JK to 4 WheelParts so they could work on the vibration. I have the Rubicon Express
brand, they sent it out to be balanced, still have the vibration. They said to drive a few days
then bring back. Said they would chedk the yokes, but reading the above post, I will ask
them to balacne again with the yokes attached. They did remove the front DS and it did not
cause any vibrations. So.....could it be a bad Rubicon Express DS???

whtIwrk4

FWIW, if the rear pinion angle is set in line with the driveshaft (pointed at the t-case), you need a CV or double cardan joint at the t-case end. If you do not have a CV joint and your pinion angle is set this way it will vibrate and eat u-joints. The pinion angle must me set so that the u-joints are running at the same angle (or very close to it, with in a degree or 2) so they cancel out eachothers vibrations. Make sense?

09rubicon

Just my , It has been my experience that vibrations in the driveline tend to happen arround certain RPMs and vibrations in the tires (unbalanced?) tend to happen around certain MPH. Yes I know the argument and the math that the driveshafts continually increase speed as you do etc, etc and I am not trying to get flamed, but I have built several rigs over the last 10 years (albiet this is my first Wrangler) and all at some point have had vibrations/noises. The pattern has held true for me, Vibration based on speed was always a wheel/brake/tire issue, vibrations based on RPMs was always a driveline issue.

kflash

Well.....After a month driving on the rebalanced JR Reel rear OE replacement shaft, the vibrations between 50-60 are no better.* I initially thought they were, but think I was trying wish them away.After a long conversation with Jim at JE Reel (awesome guy!), he has agreed to take back the shaft and using some of the parts from my current shaft, will be building a 1310 HD with replacement flanges for me (only a minor charge).He stressed that the OE replacement shafts really aren't designed for over 3 inches of* lift and 35" tires - especially the rear of a 2 door!.* He will be stressing with his suppliers that they really need to steer lifted jeeps (> 3 inch lifts) toward one of the HD versions because they move the CV joint closer to the transfer case and make the angle less severe.Again, with the stock shaft back, it is vibration free!JE Reel = Customer Service!!!!!!!!!!!!I am just hoping that once the HD version is installed I don't create another problem with the crush sleeve!