JKjunkie2009

Got some death wobble issues. After going throughout a couple of inspections, I strongly feel that my issues are due to my upper/lower ball joints. They are still the stock joints and I currently have ~90k on the jeep. Needless to say, it needs to be done anyways but I think this is why I am having issues and have had issues for the past 15k miles.

I am really up in the air as to wether I should try to tackle this myself or pay a mechanic to do it ????

I know I can do it, but I am afraid of not having the proper tools. I am living at my girlfriends house and would be using her dads tools....No telling what is in that garage ....I know I can rent the press from auto zone. What other tools would I need to make sure I have? Also, Is there anything else I should replace while I am down there..... if I decide to tackle this???

karls

It depends on your available time. If you've got time to do it then go for it. I wouldn't hesitate to do mine in your situation. If you've got any hesitation in your mind then check prices at your local shops to see what price you're up against.

kellyII

I just recently replaced my stock jb with synergy. I'm by no means a mechanic but I have above average intelligence level. It's not a rough job though. If you go
To say autozone to rent the press be prepared to take it back without even using it. The one I rented just wouldn't fit my jb no matter what adapter I used.

Lucky that my friend owns a major repair shop and let me use his.
They both press out pretty easy, the
Tops are a pain in the ass to press back in, for me the press was VERY tight against my upper coil spring mount.

No special tools are needed, just be patient, allow plenty of time, ( for me 4-5hrs) and enjoy saving the cash. Yea, shops will charge a shit ton to replace them.

JKjunkie2009

Ya I did some calling around today, and I am deff leaning more toward doing them myself. Like I said, I know I am capable, I did my entire lift suspension by myself but I am afraid of not having proper tools.

From what I have seen online, a steel fork will be use full to knock off the steering knuckle, and a 35mm socket to remove the caliper.......

Probably gonna end up doing it myself. Just curious is there a proper technique when installing the new joints to ensure that they are seated properly? How do you know how far to push them in? Sorry if thats a silly question, just can not really find a straight forward answer.....

karls

The large socket you want is for removing the nut on the end of the axle shaft stub, not the caliper. In theory, you could leave it connected and pull the hub with both axle shafts (inner and outer) out as an assembly but separating it can be easier.

I just checked my socket and I've got a 36mm. Be sure to double check for your application since that single socket is usually fairly expensive. Mine worked for my TJ but I haven't used it on the JK yet.

LeJerk

You did the job in that time? Wow, that's the amount of time shops charge! At around $100 an hour for labor, I'd spend all day doing them myself before paying $500. :(

Mark Doiron

I just did mine a couple weeks ago and, being an avid photographer, shot pictures of it. You can look at them on my public FB album. The captions describe what's going on, so don't view them full screen only. I mention the particular tools needed if they aren't just common handtools, orif they have a particular feature (such as a 13 mm twelve sided socket--must have!). I own a BJ press, along with the adapters for Chrysler's slanted mounting surfaces. However, you can borrow a press from a local parts store and use washers/plates of metal to make up for the gap. Here's a good video showing how one fellow did that ...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bf77O90BwKc And here's my photo album. It includes other work I've been doing this month on my Jeep, but scroll down and you'll find the BJ pictures ...

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10201858211877885.1073741885.1260697505&typ e=1&l=493982bd8c

D_engel

Its not a hard job by any means, just labor intensive. Make sure you have a good breaker bar to crank on the press. And you dont need a pickle fork to break the knuckle loose. Just whack the top of the knuckle with a dead blow and itll pop right off.

Canibeat

I rented all tools from the auto parts store when I replaced mine. You will need a pickle fork and ball joint press. You push them in until they are fully seated. I would say it's about 3/5 difficulty, it's definitely a lot easier the 2nd time around.

Getting them off were a lot easier than getting them in.

Mello03

I just did mine and it wasn't as bad as I anticipated. Mine weren't bad, but I did mine early to avoid the torture when it's got several miles and rust. I rented a very complete press from Advance Auto and didn't even use my pickle fork, just whacked the knuckle. No need to take off the 35-35 mm nut because once the three 12 point 13mm bolts are out, the shaft and unit bearing can come out together. Also, you can unplug the harness for the speed sensor too. It's located behind the frame. Soak stuff down with PB blaster the day before. Save the money and do it yourself.