anvil_jeep_girl

CORRECTION: 4" LIFT (couldn't figure out how to update thread title)

Hi! Looking for some input. I currently have a Pro Comp 2.5" lift in my 2015 JKU that I got back in 2016 a year after I bought my Jeep. I'm wanting to upgrade to a 3.5 inch and stuck on which way to go. It's my daily driver and doesn't see much offroad action besides sand, gravel and some washboard roads (I live in South Florida what do you expect?). I want it to be capable but don't plan on doing any rock climbing or hard core wheeling. Also want to be good on the pavement. I did mention the Clayton 3.5" Overland Plus to my shop (trusted hard core Jeepers) which is probably overkill for what I need, and this is what they recommended. How does this setup look? I asked about the steering going to a 4 inch (Teraflex doesn't have 3.5" for JK's) and they mentioned flipping the drag link. This added an extra $700. Is the flip necessary or can it be done later if need be?

**Currently running 37s and have already regeared to 4.88




Current Setup - 2.5" lift, 17" Icon Rebound Wheels, Mickey Thompson 37x12.50 Baja Boss A/T, Yukon 4.88 gears.

Jay2013jk

I would watch these 2 youtube videos on lift kits by Trail Recon AEV was rated very good for trails and on road: https://www.aev-conversions.com/prod...sc-suspension/

anvil_jeep_girl

Thank you. I have actually watched this. Been following TrailRecon for years 😊

resharp001

Ok, might not like what I have to say, but it's the reality here. for people that comment "I don't do hardcore off roading" and similar, I will always say that 99% of the issue modifying a jeep like this is keeping pavement comfort and handling. You can actually build a full-time rock crawler for relatively cheap cuz you don't have to worry about most of these things to the same extent when you're rolling 10-20mph off road, or even slower through technical obstacles. The thought that you can get by for cheaper since you're not doing those things is counter-intuitive if that makes sense.

Keep in mind that the higher you go, the higher you are moving your center of gravity, roll center, raising your steering angles and lowering your caster, increasing the angles at which your control arms are running, and increasing the amount of air that is moving underneath you at highway speeds. None of this is good. The biggest issue is the factory front axle that only has 4.2 degrees of caster built in. The higher you lift, the harder it is to raise your caster back up so that the thing steers nicely. There is always a line to balance when you rotate the axle (to increase caster) between achieving an acceptable caster and avoiding driveline vibrations. For us that are lifted that high, we really want caster in that 4.5-5 degree range. Now, you can say "oh, that is why I have adjustable control arms", and I would tell you that technically yes, they allow you to position that axle, BUT the angle at which your control arms run will be pretty steep which will translate into a rougher pavement ride when you hit bumps and potholes as the energy from those road imperfections is transferred into the frame in a more aggressive manner. Look at control arms on a factory jeep and notice how parallel to the road surface they are, then look at yours on your jeep, and imagine them running at an even more steeper angle from axle to frame. If you are hell bent on doing this, going with control arm drop brackets could be a better solution than adjustable arms since you are not doing aggressive offroading. They would keep the control arms a bit flatter, but they would also limit the adjustability you have......meaning the caster can't really be dialed in or likely achieve as high an angle as you'd like.

This is the same problem with the steering angles and the drag link, which is why at 3.5" a flip or "high-steer kit" is highly recommended. You ideally want to keep the angle that the drag link and track bar run from the frame mount to the axle mount as flat as possible. Same in the rear with the rear trackbar.

Are you wanting to lift it higher to go to a larger tire? I'd tell you that the jeep looks really nice as is, and any of these changes you'd make are actually costing a lot of money for absolutely nothing but aesthetics. They are certainly not going to make the jeep more capable. Any offroad benefit you'd get would be so marginal you'd never even notice. So, that is simply food for thought and a few concepts to consider considering the potential capital expenditure it could take. If you don't understand any of what is above, please ask for clarification. at the end of the day just want you to be able to make an informed decision one way or the other.

anvil_jeep_girl

Thank you for taking the time to respond and explaining. I have been trying to educate myself on all this. Yes, this is on the pavement 99% of the time (unfortunately). My reason for wanting a new lift is because I feel like it's sagging a little bit in the back, and any weight added is noticeable. Like I mentioned, it was a budget lift when I got my Jeep over 8 years ago. Plus I would like to be a little taller without sacrificing driveabilty (I do use to travel), which is pretty good now. My husband had a 3.5 inch lift on his Jeep and it was quite noticeable compared to my 2.5".

The shop first quoted me a Teraflex 3" coil spring base lift kit, front control arm relocation kit, with Bilstein 5100s. This was after me explaining how the Jeep is currently being used and possibilities in the future. Teraflex doesn't have 3.5" for JKs. For some reason the shop really seems to like Teraflex since that's all I've been quoted. But maybe that's all I need. We do a lot of camping which would add weight to the back, plus I have a heavy rear bumper, tire carrier, and 37" spare. I feel that a 3" wouldn't really be a 3" and I would be close to where I am now which doesn't make sense for me to spend the money to look the same.

I would like to take it off road more, mild to moderate trails. Not interested or rock crawling (maybe if it wasn't my daily driver). I plan on keeping my Jeep so don't want to have to do upgrades down the line if I can just do them now. I want it to drive good on the road/highway, be a little taller, handle weight in the rear, and be capable of mild to moderate trails. Does that even exist LOL??

anvil_jeep_girl

Plus Teraflex doesn't make 3.5" for JKs

resharp001

When I REALLY think about what they quoted you above, the price is not way off, and I do think they are pretty much on point with what you need in regard to a full set of control arms, new shocks, new springs, and a high steer kit. I am assuming that bumpstops, brake lines, sway bar links and similar smaller items are factored in there as well. The prices they are quoting are not out of line. Teraflex is not my preference, but that is neither here nor there. Realistically you could end up needing a new front driveshaft somewhere down the line as well, so yes, you’re looking at $5k+ to gain that extra height regardless of what brand you went with. That is a tough pill to swallow.

One thing for you to consider is that most of these 3.5" springs are going to be dual or triple rate coils. Most are not going to be rated to handle weight like what our overlanding buddies load in a jeep. I have heavy 37s (~118lbs tire/wheel combo) and had been spareless on the rear forever. This last year I finally decided to start carrying a spare cuz the interior of my jeep changed a bit and I could no longer get that spare in my cargo area, and I do a couple long trips where I need to be 110% self sufficient if something were to happen. Also, my jeep is pretty custom, not in a good way, so nobody else is gonna have a tire/wheel that will fit my axle in a pinch. I say all that cuz putting that spare on the back of my jeep drug that rear end down easily .5". Lot of weight back there on my booty now! That is just going to be a thing for you too if you're carrying around a heavy 37" spare. Not sure if you are bumper mounted or tailgate mounted, but ditching the spare is a real option if it's tailgate mounted (bumper mounted would look odd if you took it off). The odds are you are never going to need it and it's adding weight and decreasing fuel economy. if ever needed to, you could use a .5" or .75" spacer on top of the rear springs to offset some of this spare tire weight.

Are you or your husband capable of doing any of the install on new products? That is where you really save the money. You’re looking at $2k in labor on the quote above. People like myself are happy to help with tips on install for people that want to work on their own rigs. I do understand some people are just physically not capable or don't have the physical space to do so (like living in an apartment). Not having the tools is a different story cuz investing in that stuff is almost always cheaper than someone else's labor. Just a thought.

The reason I was leaning towards control arm brackets in my previous post is that I didn't realize you had 37s. 37s and a 3.5" lift is the point of full control arms. With that height in the rear the tire really creeps forward in the wheel well and starts to look funny. You really need the control arms to push that axle back a bit. When doing this it opens a can of worms. Not saying you WILL, but you COULD then start to interfere with your rear sway bar which could require you to move that back an inch. Not a big deal, but that then starts to interfere with the muffler. LOL, really going down the rabbit hole here on things I dealt with myself.

This stuff always makes me think of this image that someone made along the way -


I guess what I might reinforce is the idea there is not a "cheap" way of really doing this right, so it will come down to if $5-6k is worth the investment for you guys. Cheap spring spacer in the rear will help a little bit with your current issue.

resharp001

disregard.....i looked at that pic in the original post and you're not gonna opt to lose that spare. LOL. that will just be something for you to determine how to address whether with new spring situation or current.

anvil_jeep_girl

Ya, that tire carrier is bolted on. Not an option