"Unlimited" or "standard" ProRock 44
#1
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"Unlimited" or "standard" ProRock 44
I have a Rock Krawler 1.5 max travel kit on my JKU, which was about 3 inches of lift in the front from stock...
I will be ordering a PR 44 front axle and need some help determining if I should be getting the unlimited housing or a stock housing....
Thoughts?
I will be ordering a PR 44 front axle and need some help determining if I should be getting the unlimited housing or a stock housing....
Thoughts?
#2
From what I have read, the Unlimited has more caster built into the axle. I would only go that route if you had a specific suspension build in mind that needed it. Go for the Standard
#3
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's what I'm thinking too. This jeep won't ever go much taller. My caster is right where it should be and my adjustable arms are almost at their shortest. So plenty of room to adjust. My driveshaft is at 4 degrees if memory serves.
#7
Go unlimited. If I had a dollar for every thread I have read where the OP said exactly what you are saying I would be rich.
Trending Topics
#8
JK Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Louisville, KY
Posts: 111
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I know, never say never, and even if I lift it 5 years from now an axle is an expensive piece of to to have to mess with again.
I guess I need someone who understands the measurements of the two axles to help me decide based on my current numbers.
Should I just all ProRock?
I guess I need someone who understands the measurements of the two axles to help me decide based on my current numbers.
Should I just all ProRock?
#9
JK Jedi
What the caster correcction axle has the pinion pointed up higher so it is more in line with the transfer case causing less bind in the driveshaft. The more in line your pinion and output flange on the transfer case the more droop you can get out the the suspension and you greatly reduce the chance you get vibrations from too much u-joint angle at the pinion.
You say you have room in the arms to dial in more caster on your standards axle but at the increase chance of vibrations and limited droop.
At 3 inches this is no brainer and really not to be mean anyone that tells you at 3" of lift not to run a caster corrected axle does not know what they talking about in terms of how the performance and geometry is affected.
You say you have room in the arms to dial in more caster on your standards axle but at the increase chance of vibrations and limited droop.
At 3 inches this is no brainer and really not to be mean anyone that tells you at 3" of lift not to run a caster corrected axle does not know what they talking about in terms of how the performance and geometry is affected.
#10
JK Super Freak
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Thunder Bay, Ontario
Posts: 1,267
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
I have 4" lift and went with uncorrected housing because I like how the control arm geometry brackets work. Adjustable control arms do not correct geometry.. This is my personal feeling. My rig handled beautifully before the diff swap and I didn't want to loose that. Thousands of rigs out there that are lifted without caster corrected housings. If I were going 5-6" lift I would go definitely go with a correct housing but we all know that is whole other can of worms.
Longer adjustable control arms are not an option up here on a DD. Winter road salt and calcium on the roads will kill flex joints and the threaded portion of the control arms in a season.
Longer adjustable control arms are not an option up here on a DD. Winter road salt and calcium on the roads will kill flex joints and the threaded portion of the control arms in a season.