transfer case exploded
02-06-2011 | 06:06 PM
#71
JK Freak
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 632
Likes: 1
From: pensacola, florida
I think RE designed them that way for ease of installation by kit installers. And yes you can use yokes all around, I do. Your ds would have to be re-built though(ends re-done.). Unless u can get a yoke match up. Seems like you could take off the flanges and do a yolk match up. But your ds may be too short then possibly.
02-06-2011 | 06:07 PM
#72
JK Super Freak
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,934
Likes: 0
From: Middle of no where
of course, you talk like you know what you are talking about and yet, you have never personally seen one of these things seize up and blow a t-case. i have personally seen two.
you don't know how the hell it could cause this because you have never talked to someone as it was in the process of seizing up and you have never seen one in person after the fact. honestly, i don't know why you are wanting to fight this one so hard but really, if you don't want to trust my experience in this matter, i would encourage you to get some first hand experience of your own. certainly, it would help you to make a better case then just adamantly believing whatever it is you want to believe.
easy - when you look at the centering ball of the double cardin, you can easily see and feel that it has seized up. most of the times, it will even have a welded look to it from all the heat it saw. the spinning force of your drive shaft has to go somewhere and if the joints are moving, something will break - in this case, it'll be the weakest link and that will be your t-case housing.
ummm, you can be willing to bet this but, you would be wrong yet again. this is definitly true of the rear drive shaft but only because of the torque the axle sees when accelerating.
if i recall correctly, i believe the OP did have a professional install his shafts about 3 years ago. i don't know how many miles he put on it since that time but even the best professional installer cannot ensure the owner of the vehicle will maintain the parts as is required. regarding rzeppa joints, what i can tell you is that i have personally seen MANY that have had compromised cv boots and still more with bearing that were going bad. in every case, the OP did what was needed and installed a new aftermarket u-joint style double cardin shaft to fix the problem. had they kept running the rzeppa joint till it failed, i can only guess what would have happen.
well, that's news to me. still, it doesn't change the fact that on a 4" lifted jk, the cv boot will be in a constant state of pinch and that will cause it to fail prematurely. of course, there is no way to maintain an rzeppa joint and i'd really like to see how much it costs to replace a bad one. being that you don't seem to care about any of this trivial stuff, i would encourage you to buy one
you don't know how the hell it could cause this because you have never talked to someone as it was in the process of seizing up and you have never seen one in person after the fact. honestly, i don't know why you are wanting to fight this one so hard but really, if you don't want to trust my experience in this matter, i would encourage you to get some first hand experience of your own. certainly, it would help you to make a better case then just adamantly believing whatever it is you want to believe.
easy - when you look at the centering ball of the double cardin, you can easily see and feel that it has seized up. most of the times, it will even have a welded look to it from all the heat it saw. the spinning force of your drive shaft has to go somewhere and if the joints are moving, something will break - in this case, it'll be the weakest link and that will be your t-case housing.
ummm, you can be willing to bet this but, you would be wrong yet again. this is definitly true of the rear drive shaft but only because of the torque the axle sees when accelerating.
if i recall correctly, i believe the OP did have a professional install his shafts about 3 years ago. i don't know how many miles he put on it since that time but even the best professional installer cannot ensure the owner of the vehicle will maintain the parts as is required. regarding rzeppa joints, what i can tell you is that i have personally seen MANY that have had compromised cv boots and still more with bearing that were going bad. in every case, the OP did what was needed and installed a new aftermarket u-joint style double cardin shaft to fix the problem. had they kept running the rzeppa joint till it failed, i can only guess what would have happen.
well, that's news to me. still, it doesn't change the fact that on a 4" lifted jk, the cv boot will be in a constant state of pinch and that will cause it to fail prematurely. of course, there is no way to maintain an rzeppa joint and i'd really like to see how much it costs to replace a bad one. being that you don't seem to care about any of this trivial stuff, i would encourage you to buy one
Maybe you should learn a little about ethics instead of padding your pocket promoting sponsors. You ever heard of Glenn Thompson, and the Thompson coupling. Yeah, I assisted in the design. Something tells me I know more than you. Maybe you should allow discussions on this forum instead of being a condescending asshole all the time.
02-06-2011 | 06:24 PM
#73
JK Jedi Master
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 15,665
Likes: 3
From: Hammond Louisiana
Yeah, if they're doing good, I wouldn't mess with them either. It seems like having the adapterr flange at the t-case on the front is the main concern and RE addresses that with a new yolk there.
02-06-2011 | 06:28 PM
#74
JK Freak
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 894
Likes: 0
From: Kirkland, WA
"Maybe you should learn a little about ethics instead of padding your pocket promoting sponsors. You ever heard of Glenn Thompson, and the Thompson coupling. Yeah, I assisted in the design. Something tells me I know more than you. Maybe you should allow discussions on this forum instead of being a condescending asshole all the time. "
@Ryanc
didn't think I would contribute to this thread, but after reading all of it this agitated me enough...
1. We wouldn't be able to have conversations at all if that asshole hadn't dumped a considerable amount of time, money, and networking into this website...If you were in his place you're telling me that you wouldn't accept promotional ad's for your website? Every website on the internet sells ad space to stay afloat-get real.
2. I've never had the unfortunate privilege of owning a stock rzeppa style ds as I got my JK used. However it did have JE Reel flange adapters front and rear, both failed (yes I greased and serviced every 3k miles, with professional alignment every 10k mi with my tire rotation). The bottom line is that both flange and rzeppa style shafts operate at reasonably extreme angles, something will inevitably fail. Now just because you decide to swap out the stockers every time they rip a boot doesn't mean everyone should do so. If you want to, that's your business. However if you're going to defend that point of view, realize that 80+% of JK owners who have a lift over 3" decide against rzeppa and flanges. Swapping rzeppa's and flanges over and over again doesn't resolve the problem of running the ds at an extreme angle. Put on yokes, adjust angles, and service your parts...keep said parts for the life of your vehicle... Seems like a much better option than breaking things repeatedly...yeah you're not surprised by the results by why suffer through the hassle?
@Ryanc
didn't think I would contribute to this thread, but after reading all of it this agitated me enough...
1. We wouldn't be able to have conversations at all if that asshole hadn't dumped a considerable amount of time, money, and networking into this website...If you were in his place you're telling me that you wouldn't accept promotional ad's for your website? Every website on the internet sells ad space to stay afloat-get real.
2. I've never had the unfortunate privilege of owning a stock rzeppa style ds as I got my JK used. However it did have JE Reel flange adapters front and rear, both failed (yes I greased and serviced every 3k miles, with professional alignment every 10k mi with my tire rotation). The bottom line is that both flange and rzeppa style shafts operate at reasonably extreme angles, something will inevitably fail. Now just because you decide to swap out the stockers every time they rip a boot doesn't mean everyone should do so. If you want to, that's your business. However if you're going to defend that point of view, realize that 80+% of JK owners who have a lift over 3" decide against rzeppa and flanges. Swapping rzeppa's and flanges over and over again doesn't resolve the problem of running the ds at an extreme angle. Put on yokes, adjust angles, and service your parts...keep said parts for the life of your vehicle... Seems like a much better option than breaking things repeatedly...yeah you're not surprised by the results by why suffer through the hassle?
02-13-2011 | 10:30 AM
#76
JK Enthusiast
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 213
Likes: 0
From: Dubai
i blow my transfer case toooo,hooorrry
the problem was when i went to 4.88 and 4inch lift kit.
i had vibration on 60-70 but thought its from tires and rims.the dealer say wrong angle with drive shift and transfer case.
now iam fine running smothly no vibration and shaking ass
so guys be carful of the angle
the problem was when i went to 4.88 and 4inch lift kit.
i had vibration on 60-70 but thought its from tires and rims.the dealer say wrong angle with drive shift and transfer case.
now iam fine running smothly no vibration and shaking ass
so guys be carful of the angle
05-05-2022 | 10:04 PM
#77
JK Newbie
Joined: May 2022
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Pahrump, NV
2014 Rubicon issues of overheating
I bought my 2014 Rubicon 2dr in 2018, in Nevada. Summer comes I'm heading to Colorado. I started overheating on the big climbs, but not much, just enough. I got a superchips device and found that my gear ratio was set at 3:72. My dad has a 2016 at 4:10. SO I started playing around, and over time found if I set it at 4:10 no overheating. Finally found something listing the 2014 Rubicon 2dr is a 4:10. But when Carmax did their reset.. it was to a jeep wrangler standard. Also, in low 4, it would leap from 1st to 2nd. Once I set it to 4:10 not a problem.