transfer case exploded
#61
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I would like to hear your thoughts why there is "no freaking way". The transfer case is cast aluminum. The u-joints, R&P, and associated hardware are all hardened. The aftermarker DS is a hollow steel shaft that is extremely rigid. The weak point very well could be the t-case, especially if already cracked. Cracked from casting defect, vibrations, or repeated shock loads it really does not matter. I have seen cast iron differentials break also, but they are harder than cast aluminum.
I would have to physically inspect the parts before I would comment on this exact failure. I'm just saying the transfer case failure is plausible. If any part of the rotating mass locked up it would find the weakest link really quick.
I would have to physically inspect the parts before I would comment on this exact failure. I'm just saying the transfer case failure is plausible. If any part of the rotating mass locked up it would find the weakest link really quick.
What I am trying to state is how the hell could someone possibly know that the u joint caused that. Once that thing broke off the case at that velocity anything could have been deemed the cause. I am not saying a u joint cant cause this, just in this situation, how the hell would you know for sure. I would encourage folks to take their driveshaft they have and have a good ds shop available for installation and adjustment in angles, they have the tools to do this. One thing that has not been mentioned here, or anywhere on this forum is that as the JKs velocity increased the front pinion angle changes. Driveshaft shops know this and can adjust. This angle can change by 1-2 degrees. I am willing to bet this has an effect on this issue also. You could be sitting pretty at 0.5 degrees at 20mph, but go to 80 and you angle is 2.5 and then kaboom. This was not mentioned in the ds writeup on this forum and should have. The rzeppa can adjust and maintain "constant velocity". I ask again, how many rzeppa joints have exploded. NONE. Coast, Reel etc are great driveshafts. Just like gears, have a professional install them.
Last edited by Ryanc; 02-06-2011 at 06:25 AM.
#62
Now on to having a "professional" install DS. Once again I assure you there is no magic involved to minimizing angle at a U-joint. While driving down the road the angle between transfer case and diff is always changing as the suspension is cycled. On flat ground and curb weight the pinion/DS angle needs to be zero because this is dead center for the suspension cycle. The front is a compromise between this and steering linkage geometry. If you are just referring to the joint at the T-case then it is what it is, period. They only way to change that is to change the trans or motor mounts. (as was common on TJs to help on the short rear DS)
The factory style joints are better EXCEPT for being able to take the increased angles of a lifted jeep. In the case the pros of an old school DS make up for the cons. The joints work great in their range of motion i.e. factory front wheel drive car or factory (low a$$) jeep.
If a person feels better if a profession does it then great, people do it everyday with oil changes. But there ain't no mystery to it.
Last edited by toymaster; 02-06-2011 at 07:21 AM.
#63
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The rzeppa can adjust and maintain "constant velocity". I ask again, how many rzeppa joints have exploded. NONE.
I think this is because they don't last enough to explode. My stock rear driveshaft is dying at 40k and I'll be putting in an aftermarket DS next week. I could keep driving it until dirt gets in there and it seizes up and blows things up, but I don't want to.
I think this is because they don't last enough to explode. My stock rear driveshaft is dying at 40k and I'll be putting in an aftermarket DS next week. I could keep driving it until dirt gets in there and it seizes up and blows things up, but I don't want to.
#64
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#65
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Take the stock one, 5000miles, not going to blow up.
I'm pretty confident that if I wanted to, I could blow up a stock ds in just 5000 miles. All I would need is a lot of lift and a lot of offroading. The boot would break, the grease would come out, sand would get in, and it would blow up.
It's not fair comparison when you compare a stock ds on a stock vehicle and an aftermarket DS on a modded vehicle that sees a lot of use.
I'm pretty confident that if I wanted to, I could blow up a stock ds in just 5000 miles. All I would need is a lot of lift and a lot of offroading. The boot would break, the grease would come out, sand would get in, and it would blow up.
It's not fair comparison when you compare a stock ds on a stock vehicle and an aftermarket DS on a modded vehicle that sees a lot of use.
#66
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yeah, they've only been working on it since sema 2009 along with adjustable upper control arms...
sorry, but not only is this old news but it's practically vaporware.
please note that we are talking about an rzeppa joint here and you CANNOT use them at "extreme" angles for very long as doing so would cause the cv boot to fail. this is a fact and there's no way around it. the only point to making this shaft is to be skinnier and clear the auto transmission. it will not addess steeper angles and, cannot be used in the rear.
sorry, but not only is this old news but it's practically vaporware.
please note that we are talking about an rzeppa joint here and you CANNOT use them at "extreme" angles for very long as doing so would cause the cv boot to fail. this is a fact and there's no way around it. the only point to making this shaft is to be skinnier and clear the auto transmission. it will not addess steeper angles and, cannot be used in the rear.
#67
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I am not understanding something here.
WOL mentioned to use yokes. But why is this?
I have Rubicon Express driveshafts front and rear on a 4.5" lift. the frnt has a replacement yoke and the rear has a replacement flange adapter. are you suppose to be able to run a yoke on the rear also? well either way, I have now run these shafts with zero issues on and offroad for nearly 3 years over 60,000 miles. for whatever reason I never hear anything about RE driveshafts. they are 1310 and 1311 with Spicer parts
WOL mentioned to use yokes. But why is this?
I have Rubicon Express driveshafts front and rear on a 4.5" lift. the frnt has a replacement yoke and the rear has a replacement flange adapter. are you suppose to be able to run a yoke on the rear also? well either way, I have now run these shafts with zero issues on and offroad for nearly 3 years over 60,000 miles. for whatever reason I never hear anything about RE driveshafts. they are 1310 and 1311 with Spicer parts
Last edited by wayoflife; 02-06-2011 at 03:56 PM.
#68
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I am not saying a u joint cant cause this, just in this situation, how the hell would you know for sure.
I would encourage folks to take their driveshaft they have and have a good ds shop available for installation and adjustment in angles, they have the tools to do this. One thing that has not been mentioned here, or anywhere on this forum is that as the JKs velocity increased the front pinion angle changes. Driveshaft shops know this and can adjust. This angle can change by 1-2 degrees. I am willing to bet this has an effect on this issue also. You could be sitting pretty at 0.5 degrees at 20mph, but go to 80 and you angle is 2.5 and then kaboom. This was not mentioned in the ds writeup on this forum and should have.
The rzeppa can adjust and maintain "constant velocity". I ask again, how many rzeppa joints have exploded. NONE. Coast, Reel etc are great driveshafts. Just like gears, have a professional install them.
well, that's news to me. still, it doesn't change the fact that on a 4" lifted jk, the cv boot will be in a constant state of pinch and that will cause it to fail prematurely. of course, there is no way to maintain an rzeppa joint and i'd really like to see how much it costs to replace a bad one. being that you don't seem to care about any of this trivial stuff, i would encourage you to buy one
Last edited by wayoflife; 02-06-2011 at 06:10 PM.
#69
JK Freak
Thanks WOL, yes you did explain that and I understand the concept of the yoke and how you get better angles but what I'm not understanding is why would they have me install a yoke up front and the adapter flange on the rear? To me it would make sense to have installed yokes on both but because of the way the rear ds is designed, I don't think I can use a yoke on the rear.
#70
JK Jedi Master
Thanks WOL, yes you did explain that and I understand the concept of the yoke and how you get better angles but what I'm not understanding is why would they have me install a yoke up front and the adapter flange on the rear? To me it would make sense to have installed yokes on both but because of the way the rear ds is designed, I don't think I can use a yoke on the rear.
Last edited by mkjeep; 02-06-2011 at 04:51 PM.