transfer case exploded
#41
JK Jedi
J reel has a shaft they have been testing that uses the cv from RCV, last I heard, the orange dome thing was not withstanding the heat. I think eventually they will fix this minor issue. At least I hope so. I think those that are wary like me to use the current aftermarket driveshafts out there, prolonging the stock by yanking it out when not needing 4wd is a viable option. It only takes a few minutes to take on and off, unfotunately not as fast as lockouts.
#42
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there is a reason why they haven't been able to figure it out and it's because it can't be done or, at least, not in the way they are trying to go about it with the rcv joint. unlike an axle shaft, a drive shaft spins much faster and depending on what gear ratio you are running, significantly so. in the case of 5.13 or 5.38 gears, this spinning will be more than 5x as fast. this is the reason why the factory shafts have CV joints that are encased in metal with a rubber boot recessed inside - the metal housing is the only thing that can withstand the extreme forces being placed on it and be able to keep the grease inside. even if this could be figured out, the question that needs to be asked is at what cost? certainly, i can't image it would be cheap and neither would servicing it. also, coming from a guy like me who has blown drive shaft joints in the past, i'm not sure i'd want a joint this strong as i'd hate to think what would blow if it didn't. but hey, that's just me.
#43
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there is a reason why they haven't been able to figure it out and it's because it can't be done or, at least, not in the way they are trying to go about it with the rcv joint. unlike an axle shaft, a drive shaft spins much faster and depending on what gear ratio you are running, significantly so. in the case of 5.13 or 5.38 gears, this spinning will be more than 5x as fast. this is the reason why the factory shafts have CV joints that are encased in metal with a rubber boot recessed inside - the metal housing is the only thing that can withstand the extreme forces being placed on it and be able to keep the grease inside. even if this could be figured out, the question that needs to be asked is at what cost? certainly, i can't image it would be cheap and neither would servicing it. also, coming from a guy like me who has blown drive shaft joints in the past, i'm not sure i'd want a joint this strong as i'd hate to think what would blow if it didn't. but hey, that's just me.
#44
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ummm, 5x as fast as your "axle shaft" - that is what an rcv joint is made for. for every one revolution of your axle, your drive shaft spins 5.13 times. the rcv joint with it's plastic cover is not capable of withstanding drive shaft speeds.
#45
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Misread your statement, sorry.
#46
Got an update for transfer case breakage. center joint in front double cardan driveshaft that takes the needle fitting for grease never got serviced. When it failed, it locked up the joint and broke the front out of the transfer case. Expensive lesson learned, but not the equipments fault. My fault for lack of appropriate maintenance. Anyway, i'll be greasing those at 1,000 mile intervals from here on out. thanks for the input.
#47
Got an update for transfer case breakage. center joint in front double cardan driveshaft that takes the needle fitting for grease never got serviced. When it failed, it locked up the joint and broke the front out of the transfer case. Expensive lesson learned, but not the equipments fault. My fault for lack of appropriate maintenance. Anyway, i'll be greasing those at 1,000 mile intervals from here on out. thanks for the input.
Last edited by Alaska-HWY JK; 02-05-2011 at 09:12 AM.
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#49
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Originally Posted by bajajeeper
Got an update for transfer case breakage. center joint in front double cardan driveshaft that takes the needle fitting for grease never got serviced. When it failed, it locked up the joint and broke the front out of the transfer case. Expensive lesson learned, but not the equipments fault. My fault for lack of appropriate maintenance. Anyway, i'll be greasing those at 1,000 mile intervals from here on out. thanks for the input.
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all this talk is what worries me...I've been to Moab the last 3 yrs and each year I rip my front DS boot..(keep getting DS replaced under warranty). I want to buy a Coast DS with new yokes but am worried about vibrations with my 4" lift and 5.13's....I don't want to have to buy front lower control arms to adjust pinion angles..I also am worried one of these times my stock front shaft will peel the tranny pan off in the middle of a trail.
So WOL do you think I'm pretty safe to just get a coast shaft with yokes and stick it on and be all ok without having to buy new adjust. arms???
So WOL do you think I'm pretty safe to just get a coast shaft with yokes and stick it on and be all ok without having to buy new adjust. arms???