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Traction control kicking on when turning right?

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Old 09-19-2014, 09:29 AM
  #11  
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Sounds to me like the steering wheel is slightly off. Make sure when your wheels are straight the steering wheel is straight. I know you said it was right on but how did you check this? My Procal had too much play, if you problem is only in one direction, adjust the drag link slightly in the opposite direction. In other words (since your problem is to the right) straighten wheel and adjust drag link so the wheel is ever so slightly to the left. Start out in very small increments.

Last edited by Mschneid; 09-19-2014 at 09:37 AM.
Old 09-19-2014, 09:40 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Mschneid
Sounds to me like the steering wheel is slightly off. Make sure when your wheels are straight the steering wheel is straight. I know you said it was right on but how did you check this? My Procal had too much play, if you problem is only in one direction, adjust the drag link slightly in the opposite direction. In other words (since your problem is to the right) straighten wheel and adjust drag link so the wheel is ever so slightly to the left. Start out in very small increments.
That's a good idea. May be something simple like that.

I straightened it by eye, after a few test drives and it's dead center by eye when going straight down the road.

You wouldn't think it'd be sensitive to the mm....but then again it's gotten much bigger than stock so the devil could be in the details

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Old 09-19-2014, 09:41 AM
  #13  
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I'm pretty confident with the tightening on the DL nut. My wheel was centered and my wheels were aligned but when I hit either curvy roads or an on/off ramp, my ABS would come on and stay on until I parked it for awhile. Once I removed the nut and properly torqued it down, my issues were gonzo.
Old 09-19-2014, 09:44 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by AngryRedBird
Well again.. it was a Mud terrain issue with us.. MtraXX might be onto something.. say.. when was the last time you had service done on the diffs?.. did you know that mopar requires an additive.. unsure what.. but Valovline ran through a checklist on this.. if whomever did the diff fluid.. could have used inferior fluids.. or simply did add the additive.. just throwing things out there.. but heh.. sometimes all it needs is a good swift kick.. Just disco the battery clean the terms for a rest, then check..
Well the DL nut is tight to spec so that variable is out..not to mention it's a castle nut with a cotter pin so no way it could even move enough to become actually loose.
Might try the battery disco and swift kick option also..lol

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Last edited by JayswranglerX; 09-19-2014 at 09:46 AM.
Old 09-19-2014, 09:47 AM
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Originally Posted by JayswranglerX
Well the DL nut is tight to spec so that variable is out..not to mention it's a castle nut with a cotter pin so no way it could even move enough to become actually loose.
Might try the battery disco and swift kick option also..lol
Hah!
Old 09-19-2014, 09:52 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by JayswranglerX
Well the DL nut is tight to spec so that variable is out..not to mention it's a castle nut with a cotter pin so no way it could even move enough to become actually loose.
Might try the battery disco and swift kick option also..lol

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Negative on it not being able to move with the castle nut and cotter pin... It wont be able to loosen, correct, but if not tight to spec, it can be loose inside the insert in the knuckle causing the entire ball joint and nut to jiggle around...

Good luck, hope you figure it out.
Old 09-19-2014, 09:57 AM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by AngryRedBird
Hah!
Old 09-19-2014, 12:06 PM
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+1 on the steering being off centered. If it's not centered properly it'll give your ESP issues.
Old 09-19-2014, 12:22 PM
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What about bad ball joints being the issue? Allowing play in turns?
Old 09-19-2014, 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by GunDude
What about bad ball joints being the issue? Allowing play in turns?
Could be also....

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