T&ERun

Want some opinions here. I'll explain what I had and what I have now and what the Jeep is doing:

Had: PR44 front, built stock housing Dana 44 with 37 inch tires and stock steering (no assist)

Have now: Dana Ultimate 60s front and rear with 40" Toyos and hydro assist steering

During this axle and tire swap I screwed up and let my 3 year old in the Jeep and he turning the steering wheel without the steering box in place; which f'ed up the clock spring. I had that replaced by a reputable mechanic.



What it's doing (and been doing basically since the new mods and new clockspring):

When I'm driving on a curvy road and go around left or right curves at decent speeds (say 35-45mph) the traction control will kick it. I can feel the ABS kicking in and the traction control light flashes. Once straight again everything is fine. I have no air bag light, and for that matter no lights until the traction control kicks in. It doesn't do it all the time and I can't really pin it down to a certain speed or severity of a curve.

Do you think it's something with the new clockspring, the axles, or just the Jeep sitting up higher with the 40s? Does the traction control pick up body sway or lean or only work with wheel speeds? Does anyone else have this issue?

ronjenx

Is the steering wheel straight? Not just by eye, but verified through the OBDII port?

The system takes yaw data, and steering wheel position data, and determines if you might be in a skid. If the steering wheel is in a position that doesn't agree with what the vehicle is doing in the yaw axis, it will apply the appropriate brake to help bring the vehicle back to a stable position. The light will illuminate during each episode.

T&ERun

I will get it checked again but I'm pretty sure we discussed it when I dropped it off to have the clock spring replaced. I have another shop that can check it for me for free. If it were not straight, I would think it would act up more turning one way or the other. Maybe not. It's doing it pretty much the same for right or left turns. I'll check the steering wheel angle first and report back in. Thanks

14Sport

I agree the steering wheel not straight being the most likely cause. If it turns out not to be the problem, I have also read of people having a similar problem when not reprogramming tire size.

Jonathan_JK

What kinda Tuner/Cal tool are you using? It would suck to have to flash your PCM at the dealer and reprogram.

T&ERun

Huh, could be this too. I didn't recalibrate because my speedo was almost dead on (I went from 37s and 5.13 gears to 40s with 5.38s). Interesting 14Sport. That's an easier one to fix. I'm using Flashpaq. I'll update the software and go for a spin tomorrow sometime. Tried to have the steering wheel angle checked today but the shop was pretty busy and I didn't want to sit there for an hour. If the tire recal doesn't work I'll be checking the steering wheel during the week next week.

Thanks for the tips guys. I'll let you know what I find.

dshmed

Any update? I have the exact same issue. Just got PSC installed and everything is great except the traction control coming on when the wheel is turned past 10 or 2 o clock and am driving around 25-35 mph. Did it end up just needing the recal?

thanks!

SoK66

Some good info and a lot you can do yourself without taking it to a shop. First, calibrate for your new gear ratio and ACTUAL tire diameter. Measure your tires rolling diameter at street pressures. Lay a straight edge, ruler, etc across the very top of the tread of your tire. Measure from the ground to the bottom of your straightedge. That's the diameter to plug into the calibrator. It won't be 40". Those settings will get your PCM calibrated.

Next, measure the axle centering of your new axles under the frame. Use a tape measure. Measure from common points on either side of the frame to the inside sidewall of your front tires. The measurement should be within 1/4". Adjust your track bar to move center the rig if needed. Repeat in the rear, double check the front if the rear had to be moved significantly. Now you have the frame centered over the axles.

Next, get the rig on as close to a perfectly flat & level surface as possible. Garage floor, etc will do. Drive the rig back & forth until it's rolling dead straight. Look at the steering wheel spokes. If they aren't close to dead level, loosen and adjust the drag link sleeve, etc. until they are and tighten it back down.

Theses steps will get rid of your issue and the rig will drive like a slot car.

T&ERun

No. I never got it fixed. I just deal with it. I played with the tire size (went up a little from where I had it set) and it didn't change so I put it back to the tire size I originally had stored, and yeah, it was not 40. It never is what the tire size is. Mine will do it on left and right "curves" in the road doing 25-40 just like you mentioned dshmed.

T&ERun

Using Flashpaq. The red one. I've had it for about 5 years. I didn't have the problem with 37s and my PR44 front and stock rear. I now have Ultimate 60s and the 40s. Maybe it's something with the tone rings. I've learned to deal with it. It doesn't happen every time, and it's only on certain curves on the road.