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Track bar adjustment ??

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Old 10-27-2007 | 12:53 PM
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vyper's Avatar
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Default Track bar adjustment ??

I am installing a FT premium lift, How do I set my front track bar ? Do I need to put the wheels & tires on then adjust the Heim Joint till it will reach the mounting holes on the axle ?. I read the Ultimate write up and set it the same as that said, but it's not even close.
Old 10-27-2007 | 02:30 PM
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It doesn't, matter if the tires are on. What you are experiencing is normal. Leave the heim for now where it is set at. Have someone go in the Jeep and turn the wheel back and forth lock to lock. That should get the holes to line up.
If that doesn't work, you may need to physically push or pull the azle til' the holes align. For that you will need either a friend or a ratchet strap to pull the axle over.
Old 10-27-2007 | 03:19 PM
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Thanks BLKRuby, That works. Man !!! This thing is starting to look much better. I don't know how they are installing the front springs without unhooking the brake lines. My brake lines were at least 4" too short to get the springs in without unhooking.
Old 10-27-2007 | 03:48 PM
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I agree, the brakes really need to come off to make it easier. This last week i swapped my springs for HD and this time i took the brakes off and then the axle would droop far enough, i still had to used compressors though. I took the calipers right off so i wouldn't have to mess with bleeding the lines.
Old 10-29-2007 | 08:21 AM
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BlkRuby,
You said the axle would droop enough if you pulled the brakes, but what about the ESP sensors. Did you have enough play in those lines to get the droop you needed?

TIA.
Old 10-29-2007 | 01:51 PM
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Yeah, those sensors have plent of slack if you dislodge them from their little holder behind the caliper, frees them up a bit. The axle only drooped so much and the springs still wouldn't come. The trick i used was if i was working on the drivers side, i would put the jack on the passenger side and crank it up until it wouldn't go further. And if that wasn't enough, have someone push down on the side your looking to get a few extra inches.
Old 10-29-2007 | 03:04 PM
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Yep everything else has enough slack, but you "WILL" remove the front brake lines from the calipers or the calipers from the roters. I can't believe that is not mentioned it the directions. Just a few more be ready fors that I faced..... The nuts had different size threads than the bolts (had to buy new nuts & bolts) some nuts and bolts were not even in there. The Track bar relocation brackets on the rear were laughable at best ! The holes in them weren't off by a
1/16" or 1/8"... two were off by a 1/4" and four were off by almost 1/2". The mounting holes in the bump stops also had to be redrilled to fit. It took me longer to fix their screw-up's than it did to install the rest of the kit. I'm not trying to steer anyone away from Full Traction, but... this type of quality assurance is sad at best !
I will break out the tourch and make my own relocation bracket, because I don't trust the one on it now after having to "waller" it out so much to get it to mount. I hope this helps others by at least pointing out some of problems before they blind-side you.
Old 10-29-2007 | 03:22 PM
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Looks like you're in the middle of the job already, but have you seen the relocation bracket on the Clayton lift?
https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/show...hlight=clayton
Old 10-29-2007 | 03:28 PM
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After you let your axle droop put the jack on the opposite end of the axle and crank it up, that will drive the other side down. It helps to have some one step on the hub while you pop the spring in. I didn't disconnect my brakes or sensors though.
Old 10-29-2007 | 03:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Rubimon
After you let your axle droop put the jack on the opposite end of the axle and crank it up, that will drive the other side down. It helps to have some one step on the hub while you pop the spring in. I didn't disconnect my brakes or sensors though.
I already said that


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