Tow bar recommendations 2008 JK
07-09-2016, 12:50 PM
#1
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Tow bar recommendations 2008 JK
Planning on towing my 2dr JK behind my 32' Class C motorhome...eventually.
Any suggestions on a tow bar, base plate, etc. Thanks in advance.
Any suggestions on a tow bar, base plate, etc. Thanks in advance.
07-27-2016, 07:50 AM
#2
If your gonna tow, even a fair amount, the Mopar harness is CLEAN, no lights to mess with or stick on/scratch paint etc....just ONE plug and for the lights/electrical and you're done!
I like the Mopar Tow Vehicle Harness (P/N 82211156AB)
The Mopar wiring harness is good for any JK 2007-2016
There are other ways to do it (cheaper too) but you'll spend time running more wiring and diodes and nothing will be as clean.
We also use a BlueOx or Road Master articulating (all-terrain) tow bar....
I've bought SEVERAL tow-bars off of CraigsList for 250 bucks or less (even got my base plates, from CraigsList WITH a tow bar for 250).
just remember to follow the mfg towing instructions (transmission in gear if its manual, or in park if automatic) with the transfer case in natural -
I did the magnetic lights BRIEFLY...what a PIA
hiding the cord thru the windows, loop it around the mirror and hope it didn't beat the snot outta the paint
I like the Mopar Tow Vehicle Harness (P/N 82211156AB)
The Mopar wiring harness is good for any JK 2007-2016
There are other ways to do it (cheaper too) but you'll spend time running more wiring and diodes and nothing will be as clean.
We also use a BlueOx or Road Master articulating (all-terrain) tow bar....
I've bought SEVERAL tow-bars off of CraigsList for 250 bucks or less (even got my base plates, from CraigsList WITH a tow bar for 250).
just remember to follow the mfg towing instructions (transmission in gear if its manual, or in park if automatic) with the transfer case in natural -
I did the magnetic lights BRIEFLY...what a PIA
hiding the cord thru the windows, loop it around the mirror and hope it didn't beat the snot outta the paint
Last edited by bushpilot; 07-27-2016 at 08:33 AM.
07-27-2016, 12:18 PM
#3
I will have a lot of info on this real soon... I am setting up my 2013 JKU for flat tow for work.
I have talked to a lot of people on this, from the "cheap" route to the right route.
And as usual the right route is spendy.
I have talked to a lot of people on this, from the "cheap" route to the right route.
And as usual the right route is spendy.
07-28-2016, 08:58 AM
#5
As an example - I bought a BlueOx Aventa (aluminum) articulating / all terrain tow bar WITH baseplates for my JK and only paid 250 bucks.
Even by my own admission getting the baseplates (by themselves) would have been pure luck....those would normally run 400+ by themselves and the tow bar is easily another 600-800.
A few weeks ago i found (and purchased) 2 RoadMaster falcon tow bars off of craigs list - one was $75 & while it was dusty it is intact and working....as long as theyre not bent the seals and nylon bushings/washers are obtainable cheap from the manufactures for nearly all tow bars, allowing them to be refreshed if necessary.
Lots of RV folks sell their RV's and keep their Tow Bar...and then sell them for a lot less than they ever anticipated (quite frankly i think people get tired of seeing the tow bars laying around in their garage).
with the right bumper you don't need base plates, there are bolt on (which is preferred over welding) adapters - BlueOx Bolt-on Adapter
Last edited by bushpilot; 07-28-2016 at 09:10 AM.
07-28-2016, 09:07 AM
#6
How are you stopping your JK?
Where I live you need a brake in that rig by law (CO) and that braking system is not cheap.
https://www.etrailer.com/Tow-Bar-Bra...I/SM99242.html
But yes on the other stuff, a lot of Craigslist finds for sure.
Also this option too:
http://www.rockhard4x4.com/product_p/rh-8000-bo.htm
Where I live you need a brake in that rig by law (CO) and that braking system is not cheap.
https://www.etrailer.com/Tow-Bar-Bra...I/SM99242.html
But yes on the other stuff, a lot of Craigslist finds for sure.
Also this option too:
http://www.rockhard4x4.com/product_p/rh-8000-bo.htm
it really isn't that spendy....ive bought several tow bars off of craigslist.
As an example - I bought a BlueOx Aventa (aluminum) articulating / all terrain tow bar WITH baseplates for my JK and only paid 250 bucks.
Even by my own admission getting the baseplates (by themselves) would have been pure luck....those would normally run 400+ by themselves and the tow bar is easily another 600-800.
A few weeks ago i found (and purchased) 2 RoadMaster falcon tow bars off of craigs list - one was $75 & while it was dusty it is intact and working....as long as theyre not bent the seals and nylon bushings/washers are obtainable cheap from the manufactures for nearly all tow bars, allowing them to be refreshed if necessary.
Lots of RV folks sell their RV's and keep their Tow Bar...and then sell them for a lot less than they ever anticipated (quite frankly i think people get tired of seeing the tow bars laying around in their garage).
with the right bumper you don't need base plates, there are bolt on (which is preferred over welding) adapters - BlueOx Bolt-on Adapter
As an example - I bought a BlueOx Aventa (aluminum) articulating / all terrain tow bar WITH baseplates for my JK and only paid 250 bucks.
Even by my own admission getting the baseplates (by themselves) would have been pure luck....those would normally run 400+ by themselves and the tow bar is easily another 600-800.
A few weeks ago i found (and purchased) 2 RoadMaster falcon tow bars off of craigs list - one was $75 & while it was dusty it is intact and working....as long as theyre not bent the seals and nylon bushings/washers are obtainable cheap from the manufactures for nearly all tow bars, allowing them to be refreshed if necessary.
Lots of RV folks sell their RV's and keep their Tow Bar...and then sell them for a lot less than they ever anticipated (quite frankly i think people get tired of seeing the tow bars laying around in their garage).
with the right bumper you don't need base plates, there are bolt on (which is preferred over welding) adapters - BlueOx Bolt-on Adapter
07-28-2016, 09:22 AM
#7
technically thats not true - the braking issue is specific to TRAILERS, not towed vehicles....its confusing and of course ALL
the supplemental brake manufactures will tell you it's the law...but research says it applies to TRAILERS, not towed vehicles.
THAT SAID....
i use grade 70 safety chains w/ clevis hooks (attached at 3 points - 1. primary mover 2. tow bar hooks 3. jeep frame).
I DO have a BrakeBuddy that i use (rarely). With our coach we don't worry stopping an extra towed 4k lbs or even 10k lbs.
I bought the brake buddy....you guested it, on CraigList for 300 bucks....jsut gotta be patient....all these folks think the stuff is worth more than theyll ever get.
Heres a good example....tow bar & brake buddy for 600 bucks
Heres another example - brake system for 450 (remember this is the asking price, offer less & make it cash today....they come around and eventually sell em for a lot less than they thought they'd get
there is imo NO reason to buy this stuff new....most RV'ers barely ever use their stuff...they own the RV's a few years and then they sit in storage or theyre sold.
Last edited by bushpilot; 07-28-2016 at 09:24 AM.
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07-28-2016, 09:59 AM
#8
More good points!!!
I was fortunate to get all my gear new through one of our sales agency.
So I am in for "Craigslist" pricing but all new.
I am interested in how this goes.
I think I mentioned I am towing my JK on 38's behind our F-150 on 35's...
I usually drive the JK or trailer it behind me F-250 PSD.
I was fortunate to get all my gear new through one of our sales agency.
So I am in for "Craigslist" pricing but all new.
I am interested in how this goes.
I think I mentioned I am towing my JK on 38's behind our F-150 on 35's...
I usually drive the JK or trailer it behind me F-250 PSD.