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torque wrench

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Old 07-23-2008 | 09:15 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by SH0RTBUS
Congrats on the new torque wrench. Don't use your torque wrench to break bolts loose!
X2 They are heavier than a breaker bar, but you should only use it to tighten bolts.

When you rotate your wheels you should always use your torque wrench for the final tightening. A hot brake rotor will warp if the torque is not the same on all of the lugs. I had this happen on an F150 once & have always used a torque wrench since. I even loosen the lug nuts & re-torque myself after I get tires rotated or changed.
Old 07-23-2008 | 09:45 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by SH0RTBUS
Congrats on the new torque wrench. Don't use your torque wrench to break bolts loose!
I wont but the cool thing is this thing acts as a ratchet in both directions so I can set it either way.
Old 07-23-2008 | 10:47 PM
  #23  
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Unless its mission critical stuff like lug nuts and any bolt on an engine (especially cylinder heads) or transmissions I wouldn't get too carried away with the torque wrench. Just tighten snugly small fasteners like M5 with a normal length 1/4 hand ratchet, M6-M7 with a normal length 3/8 hand ratchet and anything above that with a normal length 1/2 hand ratchet. You'll know that you did it wrong when you use a 10mm socket on a 1/2 ratchet to tighten a M5 bolt and the head snaps off...

Also just from my limited 30+ years of experience fooling with automobiles, motorcycles, tractors, chainsaws etc. I'd say stay away from the Loctite too unless you never want to remove it again. Loctite is evil garbage, use Anti-Seize with nylok crush nuts, lock washers or bolts that have holes for safety wire or cotter pins...

BTW, always use anti-seize on lug nuts, check torque and then have a friend re-check it for you. Nice thing about this is flats usually happen at the worst time and having to deal with a frozen lug nut in the cold wet mud is no fun...
Old 07-23-2008 | 11:02 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by JulietKilo
I wont but the cool thing is this thing acts as a ratchet in both directions so I can set it either way.
I love it! Gotta make sure you have the right torque when you loosen those nuts.
Old 07-23-2008 | 11:04 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Zylfrax791
Unless its mission critical stuff like lug nuts and any bolt on an engine (especially cylinder heads) or transmissions I wouldn't get too carried away with the torque wrench. Just tighten snugly small fasteners like M5 with a normal length 1/4 hand ratchet, M6-M7 with a normal length 3/8 hand ratchet and anything above that with a normal length 1/2 hand ratchet. You'll know that you did it wrong when you use a 10mm socket on a 1/2 ratchet to tighten a M5 bolt and the head snaps off...
So setting a torque wrench to 30 ft-lbs to install the torx bolts on my hard top is overkill?
Old 07-24-2008 | 05:40 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by JulietKilo
Mine is brand new but how and where should I get it calibrated. I have wanted one for years and decided to get one cause I was tired of guessing. I saw an inch/lb wrench next to the one I just bought and I plan on going to buy that one too. They arent that expensive, suprisingly. However they are beefier then any breaker bar I have owned.
I get all mine calibrated/checked every three years. They usually don't need anything. But then, all of my click types are Snap On.
Old 07-24-2008 | 06:04 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by YellowToy
I love it! Gotta make sure you have the right torque when you loosen those nuts.
You know that they make reverse threaded bolts and nuts right? Not everything is righty tighty lefty loosey.
Old 07-24-2008 | 06:16 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by RedneckJeep
I get all mine calibrated/checked every three years. They usually don't need anything. But then, all of my click types are Snap On.
Yeah but where? With Snap-on. Great stuff by the way. My garage is filled with Craftsman. I love love their stuff.

Never broke one, I tried once... tried to use a 3/8 inch drive ratchet as a kick start and I beat on that thing like people beat a dead horse on this forum but it never broke.
Old 07-24-2008 | 06:25 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Zylfrax791
Unless its mission critical stuff like lug nuts and any bolt on an engine (especially cylinder heads) or transmissions I wouldn't get too carried away with the torque wrench. Just tighten snugly small fasteners like M5 with a normal length 1/4 hand ratchet, M6-M7 with a normal length 3/8 hand ratchet and anything above that with a normal length 1/2 hand ratchet. You'll know that you did it wrong when you use a 10mm socket on a 1/2 ratchet to tighten a M5 bolt and the head snaps off...

Also just from my limited 30+ years of experience fooling with automobiles, motorcycles, tractors, chainsaws etc. I'd say stay away from the Loctite too unless you never want to remove it again. Loctite is evil garbage, use Anti-Seize with nylok crush nuts, lock washers or bolts that have holes for safety wire or cotter pins...

BTW, always use anti-seize on lug nuts, check torque and then have a friend re-check it for you. Nice thing about this is flats usually happen at the worst time and having to deal with a frozen lug nut in the cold wet mud is no fun...

This post is wrong in so many ways.
Old 07-24-2008 | 06:35 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by JulietKilo
Yeah but where? With Snap-on. Great stuff by the way. My garage is filled with Craftsman. I love love their stuff.

Never broke one, I tried once... tried to use a 3/8 inch drive ratchet as a kick start and I beat on that thing like people beat a dead horse on this forum but it never broke.
With Snap On, that service is free. All you have to do is find a Snap On Dealer. I have a good friend in the area who is one. They can also send off other makes, but charge for those of course. You can also purchase torque wrench calibrators from the Snap On Tools Corporation. They are some of the most expensive tools that snap On sells. Example:

hxxp://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=66768&group_ID=2903 &store=snapon-store&dir=catalog


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