how necessary is it to use a torque wrench when working on lifts ? ive been one of those backyard mechanics who don't know diddly squat and never used one. is dang tight good enough , are they just so you don't overtighten snapping bolts off the real problem and a concerned professional would use one

 

Dang tight worked for me except where instructed to torque. Did the entire body lift and suspension lift with hand tools. Don't own air tools. Not real fun doing it that way, but when thats all you've got.

 

Dang tight works good on lots of stuff. On something like a body lift though, where there are several points all tied to a common frame, it's pretty DANG important to make sure all of the fasteners are tightened to the same value. Sears sells the old "beam" type torque wrenches for like 20 bucks. They work well.

 

I'll leave my IMHO and run.

If you ever have the wheels off your vehicle you should use a torque wrench to make the last bit of movement of the lugs when you tighten them. If you have an emergency you do the best you can, and then you torque them (loosen first) as soon as possible.

Most suspension stuff can be "tight enough" and be just fine. The "through type" bolts have to have the nut fall off and the bolt fall out before disaster occurs. The failure mode is slower and the failure is easier to find before disaster happens. Nothing wrong with taking the extra 2 minutes to torque them though.

You didn't mention them, but air tools absolutely stink for properly tightening anything. The hammer action means "mostly loose", "just right", and "horribly over tight" feel essentially the same to the user.

You sound like an experienced backyard mechanic that can get thought the job without trouble. I respect that, but I have seen mechanics with years of experience have a "wheel off" because they didn't use a torque wrench on lug nuts a few other critical fasteners.

+2 on the beam type cheapies. They are a little harder to use properly, but they hold calibration great. The clicker type can get messed up easily and cause troubles too.

 

I'd say buy a torque wrench. If you can't go for a high dollar one at least get a beam style. About 30 years ago in invested in SnapOn clicker type torque wrenches; a 1/2", 3/8" and 1/4". They have seen a lot of use over the years and I'm glad I made the investment.

Sometimes you are in a position where you can's see the beam pointer and the clicker saves the day. Bolting my Warn PowerPlant onto my front bumper was one of those situations. And I feel a lot better, when my wife has the Jeep, knowing that the LCA's are at 90, UCA's are at 70, and trackbars at 105 just as RE specified.

 

The problem with "Dang Tight" is that alot depends on what's in your hand when MAKING it dang tight.

If my wrench has a 12" handle...its a long lever arm, which multiplies my leverage.

If I am using a 6" wrench, I might have to but my nuts getting it as tight as a no sweat 12" wrench would get it, etc.

Torque values are typically related to the structural properties of the fastener system...like the type of steel, its strength in the modulus of concern, the threads ability to hold the force, etc....so a particular grade and diameter bolt will typically have a similar torque recommendation, etc.

Getting a bunch of bolts at the SAME torque setting is sometimes more important than what the torque setting IS....as some parts need an even pressure to not warp their shape, etc.

Example, a bud of mine had a wheel vibe that would not go away....We loosened and re-torqued the rim in question, and....whatyahknow....the torques were all a bit different, and it was making the alloy rim just a bit off, causing the vibe....etc.

On engine or tranny work...if the torque is not even, the part is going to have a bit of warp, and there will be trouble, etc.

So - there's not stripping the threads from Too Much Torque, not having parts fall off from too little torque, not having vibes or interference/failure or leaks, from uneven torque...all as potential benefits from actually using a torque wrench.

Some people have a good feel for how tight is about right, and using the same sized tool and applying the same effort to tighten can make the values more even...like having perfect pitch musically, in a mechanical sense....and get away w/o a torque wrench quite often.

Most people though will be more accurate and consistent with torque wrench...and/or prefer the peace of mind it provides: Especially if you are making a warranty claim on a failed part you installed - "Did you torque the bolts on our product to the proper value with a torque wrench?"

etc.

 

Sears has some great torque wrenches that wot break the bank ranging from $20 (as stated earlier, to $250 for the digital gizmo. I bought one for around $100. It doesn't have the digital read out but it is easy to read, set and use. Oh, get 1/2" for mechanical work.

 

I put mine on Dang tight about a year ago and I ain't had any problems since, for what that's worth

 

x3 4 torque wrench

 

Like TeeJ said...If you dont have alot of experience use a torque wrench....only takes couple minutes for the safety of everyone around you!!!