tom woods 1310 read drive shaft vibration
12-29-2014, 12:05 PM
#51
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I personally would do uppers Adj CA's
12-29-2014, 12:10 PM
#52
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Uppers will do the job. When you tilt the axle, your spring perches will rotate backwards. They already are rotated a little from the lift. Keep an eye on this, especially on the passenger side where that spring easily bows into your trackbar. Best fix is to cut off perches and weld back on top of repositioned axle.
12-29-2014, 01:46 PM
#53
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A little late, but from way back in post #6...
Which includes a section on vibrations/harmonics, maintenance/greasing, slopes/angles, etc, etc. Here is the diagram of the stock setup to go with the cv diagram that has been posted several times.
For the adjustable arms, they use various types of joints also, so you might want to do a little research before deciding based on one or two replies.
Another thing that hasn't been mentioned is that unlike the stock shafts, you will probably need to drop the it occasionally to grease it. The center balls are kinda hard to get to with them installed.
For the adjustable arms, they use various types of joints also, so you might want to do a little research before deciding based on one or two replies.
Another thing that hasn't been mentioned is that unlike the stock shafts, you will probably need to drop the it occasionally to grease it. The center balls are kinda hard to get to with them installed.
12-30-2014, 12:04 AM
#54
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http://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Lubric...grease+fitting
If you pay someone to lube your Jeep, be sure they know what they are doing with that driveshaft. I can tell you from experience what happens if it doesn't get lubed: It will start to squeak, wearing down the metal on the shaft. Repair is to send it back to Tom Woods and they will fix. In my case, I paid for parts only with free labor. I tried to have repaired locally, but no one would touch it. So, best to not do what I did by overlooking that hidden fitting.
12-30-2014, 08:51 AM
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At least of my front Tom Woods DS (rear is OEM) that grease fitting for the ball is very difficult to see. It is a recessed design that uses a needle grease gun fitting, rather than the Zert fittings that are used on the rest of the driveshaft. Easy to overlook when lubing the DS, which should be done every few thousand miles. Tom Woods recommends every six months or so to lube that ball. If this isn't making sense to anyone reading it who owns one of these shafts, drop the shaft and bend the double Cardin joint so it's open. Rotate around until you see the recessed grease fitting. This is the adapter you need to grease it ...
Amazon.com: Lincoln Lubrication 5803 Grease Needle Nozzle: Automotive
If you pay someone to lube your Jeep, be sure they know what they are doing with that driveshaft. I can tell you from experience what happens if it doesn't get lubed: It will start to squeak, wearing down the metal on the shaft. Repair is to send it back to Tom Woods and they will fix. In my case, I paid for parts only with free labor. I tried to have repaired locally, but no one would touch it. So, best to not do what I did by overlooking that hidden fitting.
Amazon.com: Lincoln Lubrication 5803 Grease Needle Nozzle: Automotive
If you pay someone to lube your Jeep, be sure they know what they are doing with that driveshaft. I can tell you from experience what happens if it doesn't get lubed: It will start to squeak, wearing down the metal on the shaft. Repair is to send it back to Tom Woods and they will fix. In my case, I paid for parts only with free labor. I tried to have repaired locally, but no one would touch it. So, best to not do what I did by overlooking that hidden fitting.
Thanks for the tip.
12-30-2014, 09:30 AM
#56
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You're right, I forgot about that. I have an adapter kit with a bunch of different fittings so just used that one. But now that you mention it, I do recall receiving some plastic tool.
12-30-2014, 10:31 AM
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A good driveshaft maintenance video by the folks at Teraflex. Worth a few minutes when you get a chance
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t65eVJGBgxk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t65eVJGBgxk
01-05-2015, 07:36 AM
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Hey guys i ordered the arms on the 29th and Rock Krawler is giving me an ETA for next week, Is it ok to still drive the Jeep with the pinion angle in the wrong position? I don't want to cause any more damage...
01-05-2015, 10:04 AM
#59
OP: There was a lot of good help and information in this thread but here are some additional thoughts.
You said you snapped the rear shaft. I am going to assume there was either some wheel hop or a big load hit that caused this. In either case, I would open the rear diff and inspect the R&P teeth. It is very likely that whatever force that snapped the DS has done some damage here. I would also jack up the rear-end and spin the rear tires to see if the shaft flanges are bent. Both can cause vibration and have happened when the DS snapped.
Also you mentioned that you went with a 1310 jointed shaft. This is fine, but realize that the 1310 joint is actually far weaker than the stock shaft was. If you drive the same way again I would carry spare joints. (Especially if they are the cheaper and standard ones Tom Woods uses rather than the solid Spicers)
Lastly, I have known several Tom Woods shafts to arrive brand new out of balance. You might want to have this checked at a local DS shop should the problem persist.
You said you snapped the rear shaft. I am going to assume there was either some wheel hop or a big load hit that caused this. In either case, I would open the rear diff and inspect the R&P teeth. It is very likely that whatever force that snapped the DS has done some damage here. I would also jack up the rear-end and spin the rear tires to see if the shaft flanges are bent. Both can cause vibration and have happened when the DS snapped.
Also you mentioned that you went with a 1310 jointed shaft. This is fine, but realize that the 1310 joint is actually far weaker than the stock shaft was. If you drive the same way again I would carry spare joints. (Especially if they are the cheaper and standard ones Tom Woods uses rather than the solid Spicers)
Lastly, I have known several Tom Woods shafts to arrive brand new out of balance. You might want to have this checked at a local DS shop should the problem persist.
02-08-2015, 10:06 AM
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A little late, but from way back in post #6...
Which includes a section on vibrations/harmonics, maintenance/greasing, slopes/angles, etc, etc. Here is the diagram of the stock setup to go with the cv diagram that has been posted several times.
Attachment 589537
Attachment 589538
For the adjustable arms, they use various types of joints also, so you might want to do a little research before deciding based on one or two replies.
Another thing that hasn't been mentioned is that unlike the stock shafts, you will probably need to drop the it occasionally to grease it. The center balls are kinda hard to get to with them installed.
Which includes a section on vibrations/harmonics, maintenance/greasing, slopes/angles, etc, etc. Here is the diagram of the stock setup to go with the cv diagram that has been posted several times.
Attachment 589537
Attachment 589538
For the adjustable arms, they use various types of joints also, so you might want to do a little research before deciding based on one or two replies.
Another thing that hasn't been mentioned is that unlike the stock shafts, you will probably need to drop the it occasionally to grease it. The center balls are kinda hard to get to with them installed.
For what its worth, this isn't purely academic for me. I've got my front driveshaft off right now because the boot on the cv failed. 3.5" aev lift using the aev brackets so my pinion is 6 degrees off of perpendicular to my driveshaft (ie, 91 and 7). So I'm faced with either repairing the stock shaft (no clue when the boot ruptured) or figuring out how to properly cant (cast?) my pinion and buying a double cardan. Is finding someone (woods) to build a shaft with a double cardan on each end a reasonable tactic?
Sorry for the novel.