tom woods 1310 read drive shaft vibration
12-27-2014, 02:58 PM
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12-27-2014, 03:15 PM
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12-27-2014, 03:30 PM
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TeraFlex Monster Rear Upper FlexArms | Jeep Parts and Accessories | Quadratec
Is this what I want? Also can I still drive the Jeep or will I do more damage?
Is this what I want? Also can I still drive the Jeep or will I do more damage?
12-27-2014, 04:29 PM
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TeraFlex Monster Rear Upper FlexArms | Jeep Parts and Accessories | Quadratec
Is this what I want? Also can I still drive the Jeep or will I do more damage?
Is this what I want? Also can I still drive the Jeep or will I do more damage?
12-27-2014, 05:22 PM
#15
I run the 2.5 AEV currently with the stock f/r drive shafts and no problems. Slap your OEM driveshaft back in without making any other adjustments and see if you still get the vibration. My
...... ** oops, didn't see your post about snapping the OEM one. ...and/or what nthinuf said....."Also, if you want to confirm/eliminate the shaft as the source, just pull if off and go for a drive in 4wd"
Last edited by DJ1; 12-27-2014 at 05:27 PM.
12-27-2014, 05:30 PM
#16
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The stock shaft literally snapped clean, I had the rear end I'm some pretty thick $h*% and snap!
You broke the stock shaft and replaced with an aftermarket that uses different joints. Looking at the diagrams on Woods website, you can easily see the types of angles that each joint likes to run at, right? For the rear, you want the pinion pointed up at the tcase. (Up front it is harder, since you have to balance between good pinion angle and good caster.) If you don't want to mess with the pinion, see if you can find a take-off stock shaft for cheap, there are plenty of them floating around.
12-27-2014, 06:22 PM
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And this doesn't explain the problem?
The issue you are mentioning relates to the steeper angles that the stock joints have to run at, the rubber boots get pinched and wear through and then spit out all the grease.
You broke the stock shaft and replaced with an aftermarket that uses different joints. Looking at the diagrams on Woods website, you can easily see the types of angles that each joint likes to run at, right? For the rear, you want the pinion pointed up at the tcase. (Up front it is harder, since you have to balance between good pinion angle and good caster.) If you don't want to mess with the pinion, see if you can find a take-off stock shaft for cheap, there are plenty of them floating around.
The issue you are mentioning relates to the steeper angles that the stock joints have to run at, the rubber boots get pinched and wear through and then spit out all the grease.
You broke the stock shaft and replaced with an aftermarket that uses different joints. Looking at the diagrams on Woods website, you can easily see the types of angles that each joint likes to run at, right? For the rear, you want the pinion pointed up at the tcase. (Up front it is harder, since you have to balance between good pinion angle and good caster.) If you don't want to mess with the pinion, see if you can find a take-off stock shaft for cheap, there are plenty of them floating around.
12-27-2014, 06:58 PM
#18
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No, my suggestion is to understand the problem before indiscriminately throwing money at it.
Start by pulling the rear shaft and going for a drive. Does the vibration go away? If you find that the new shaft is causing the vibes, check the balance. If the balance is good, and you decide to adjust the pinion angle, then add a set of arms. Or start with new arms and hope that was the fix.
Or, since you did not have vibes with the stock shaft, you have the option of going with another stocker. It wasn't the lift height or the angles that broke it, it was whatever you were stuck in...
Start by pulling the rear shaft and going for a drive. Does the vibration go away? If you find that the new shaft is causing the vibes, check the balance. If the balance is good, and you decide to adjust the pinion angle, then add a set of arms. Or start with new arms and hope that was the fix.
Or, since you did not have vibes with the stock shaft, you have the option of going with another stocker. It wasn't the lift height or the angles that broke it, it was whatever you were stuck in...
12-27-2014, 07:25 PM
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No, my suggestion is to understand the problem before indiscriminately throwing money at it.
Start by pulling the rear shaft and going for a drive. Does the vibration go away? If you find that the new shaft is causing the vibes, check the balance. If the balance is good, and you decide to adjust the pinion angle, then add a set of arms. Or start with new arms and hope that was the fix.
Or, since you did not have vibes with the stock shaft, you have the option of going with another stocker. It wasn't the lift height or the angles that broke it, it was whatever you were stuck in...
Start by pulling the rear shaft and going for a drive. Does the vibration go away? If you find that the new shaft is causing the vibes, check the balance. If the balance is good, and you decide to adjust the pinion angle, then add a set of arms. Or start with new arms and hope that was the fix.
Or, since you did not have vibes with the stock shaft, you have the option of going with another stocker. It wasn't the lift height or the angles that broke it, it was whatever you were stuck in...
12-28-2014, 03:43 AM
#20
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Couple different things going on here. The advice about 3-3.5" was for the 3.8s. When the 3.6s came out, I was advised (helping a friend) to install the TF exhaust spacers to keep the DS from contacting the crossover on a 2.5" TF cool lift. Yet, I have a number of friends with 3.6s and 2.5" AEV lifts who never installed those spacers. Their rigs run fine. But we're into overlanding, not rock crawling. I'm trying to sort out if the exhaust spacers are needed at all, or maybe just for those who really get the rear axle drooped. And the answer may prove informative to you. Thoughts?