Rubi-WAC

After adding a Teraflex 2.5 coil lift with 35s Sunday and getting an alignment today, my front passenger side has a -1.1 camber.

If I assume it's a bent C then an adjustable ball joint can fix this. So should I just get the passenger side or do I need both? Will welding on ORE's sleeves and gussets do anything besides causing this to bend further? I'd still need the ball joints which could end up being over $1000 with labor.

Assuming it's a bent tube, is it just worth leaving and tolerating it until it breaks for a Dynatrac ProRock 44 housing? For $1000 more will this be that much better than ball joints and welding? Ideally this would be best, but should I just wheel the stock 44 housing hard until it breaks or would this cause greater problems in the future?

Thanks!

Topkicker1

Your only out of spec by 1/2 degree. You could just have bad ball joints. Had mine replaced under warranty at 36k miles. I can't see it costing a grand to have the ball joints replaced. Jack it up on the front axle and stick a board under the tire. If you get any movement in the tire/wheel when applying pressure upwards on the board, you have a bad ball joint. Camber spec is -.10 to -.60 degrees. Whad did the drivers side read? Just curuious. My passenger side read -1.1 also before I had the ball joints replaced. FWIW, the factory ball joints are shit with their plastic inners. I just had it done w OEM replacements because it was free. I will replace them w Moog BJ's when the OEM pieces of shit fail again.

Rubi-WAC

Thanks, Topkicker.

Passenger is -1.1 Driver is -0.4

I'll try the board test this weekend before I make any more assumptions.

Topkicker1

Ha! My driver's side was the same! Did you get any movement when prying up under the tire? You will definately feel it. Mine had a "click" in it when I pryed upwards.