So now the dilemma is if to build one 44 or two 60's.

 

Go for the 60s you'll be better off in the long run especially since you have a thought of going to 40s down the road.

 

400hp and 37s on a D30?? Your axle will spontaneously combust upon hearing the idea.


Here's my front D44 with a 275hp engine and 37s. In six months this year, I went through one set of Synergy ball joints, one front hub, two rear wheel bearings, one drag link, and one front ring and pinion. Forget the tubes and C's, the rest is what will cost you. Going to a D44 doesn't solve anything except get you a larger ring gear that will still fail.

 

you can go much lower, even without beadlocks.

 

But didn't you even say you thought the breakage was more so from an improper gear set up that a failure in another thread?

 

There's no way all the Rubi's with D44's are upgrading to 60's before running 37's. Tons of people run 37's on 44's.

 

I have no way of knowing. The rear was done by the same shop and it was all good - back lash, etc. all checked out. The front was a mess, but I drove on a blown ring for at least 500 miles. Regardless, the fact is that a D44 R&P can be blown and they are not nearly as invincible as people make them out to be. Especially with the weight of JKUs today. 37s and 400hp could shred a D44. As noted though, even if that doesn't happen, you will be chasing issues and worn parts on either a D44 or D30. Plus, companies like Artec are making it stupid easy and affordable to upgrade to D60s.

 

They do and you can. You asked if stuff will break and the answer is absolutely. I ran 37s on D44s and regret every part of that decision. You will definitely smoke ball joints and wheel bearings. If you haven't, you'll need a drag link with 1 ton GM ends. An upgraded tie rod should be on the list. Wheel offset will play a roll in bearings life, but you're looking at heavy tires. Expect it to be a regular event like changing oil. It will be one at a time. I made a habit of pulling my rear shafts every couple months to inspect the bearings. A lot cheaper to catch them before they implode.

If you have stock axle shafts, they won't last long if you go offroad. Question is, do you upgrade and make the R&P the weak point?

 

I'm debating a 60/14b upgrade by the spring, may have a prorock 44 hub to hub available with 4.56's, rcv's ,and an arb if you don't upgrade sooner.

 

With 18 psi in Toyo's you won't even be able to tell that you aired down. The load range E will pretty much carry the Jeep with minimal air in the tire.