MAG00

Looking a couple of different PR44 configurations and would like your input. Which configuration would you go with and why (note gearing too please)? First here is info on my rig and uses:

- 2013 Jeep Wrangler Unlimited D30 front axle with 3:73 gears and factory limited slip differential
- 2.5 Rock Krawler Max Travel Kit with Rancho 9000 shocks. Kit includes their lower control arms (front & Back) and rear trac bar bracket
- Synergy front trac bar with their sector shaft brace kit
- Synergy steer stabilizer relocation kit (bracket that goes over factory axle side trac bar bracket along with clam on tie rod). Allows steering stabilizer to be up higher.
- Currently running Goodear Duratrac 315/70R17. May go to Nitto Trail Grapplers 35x12.50 in the future (heavier tire).
- My rig is my daily drive and see a lot of and mostly pavement time. Mostly day to day in town driving and a few road trips from time to time. However, I would like to get it where it's good for that but can handle some decent off-roading as well. Terrain around here is mostly rolling hills, muddy trails with ruts, however, we do have an off-road park about 2hrs away that offers some rocks.
- My rig does have some weight to it with front bumper & winch, rear bumper, Ace Sliders with Rubi rails, and skids.

Option A
PR44 set up to use factory knuckles, brakes, factory track bar location, and connect to factory front drive shaft
New ball joints (either Synergy or dynatrac thru the free with purchase of housing offer)
4:56 or 4:88 ...thoughts on gearing?
RCV shafts
ARB locker with twin compressor
Rear to get gears and new axle shafts (ten factory)

Option B
PR44 set up to use factory knuckles, brakes, factory track bar location, and connect to factory front drive shaft
New ball joints (either Synergy or dynatrac thru the free with purchase of housing offer)
4:56 or 4:88 ...thoughts on gearing?
RCV shafts
Detroit Truetrac
New front drive shaft with cost savings from not getting ARB with compressor.
Rear to get gears and new axle shafts (ten factory)

Option C
PR44 set up to use factory knuckles, brakes, factory track bar location, and connect to factory front drive shaft
New ball joints (either Synergy or dynatrac thru the free with purchase of housing offer)
4:56 or 4:88 ...thoughts on gearing?
RCV shafts
Eaton E-Locker
Maybe new front drive shaft with cost savings from not getting ARB with compressor.
Rear to get gears and new axle shafts (ten factory)

Invest2m4

Option D: regear and toss a truss on. Save your money. Or, buy a used rubicon axle. If you keep an eye out, you'll find one with the gears you want.

I doubt I'd ever break a trussed stock housing. On my D44 I did blow up the ring and pinion, numerous front hubs, expensive ball joints, etc. You know, all the stuff that is weak and that the $5k PR44 doesn't address.

Rebar-7

I'd go with A or C . But the axle kinda loose's its luster after the Dynatrac emblem falls off. Lol

Biginboca

I'd go with option c.

Supposedly the dynatrac housing is less likely to have gears grenade than a juiced up rubicon housing because there is less deflection of the housing under load which keeps the gears properly meshed. I have always wanted to read a post from someone who grenades gears in a PR44 to see if it's true but I don't remember ever reading one, so maybe it is true?

But then supposedly the ARB cover for the 44 housing has those 2 lateral reinforcements that ARB says significantly reduces deflection also when used on a stock housing.

All I know is the grenading gears in a 44 posts seem to always be stock housings and it makes me wish I had a pr44 instead of a juiced up Rubi axle, lol

MAG00

May I ask why you would choose option C with the E-locker?

Biginboca

The new Eatons are 4 pin same as ARB. Running 35's I doubt you will be able to kill it.

I'm partial to the elocker, just seems like less chances for a failure. I don't mean the locker but the system used to operate it. Compressors require electricity to run, then have mechanical parts, then run air lines to the locker. Elocker only has the first part of this system, the electric wires.

Simple = Less Things to Fail, IMO.

You know TJ Rubicons had air lockers. Then jeep realized what I just said and switched to elocker for the JK. Now who wants to go back to tech Jeep abandoned 10 years ago? Lol

TheDirtman

For your set up I would not waste the money on a PR44.

MAG00

I know that it is somewhat overkill for me and that I would probably be ok with just re-gearing and such. But I tend to lean to going for quality the first time with a little overkill. Which I also know tends to run me more money. At this point I'm still analyzing what I want to do.

Can you elaborate on your comment some more please? Thanks.

TheDirtman

People on the forums make too much a deal over the axles, running 35's is fine for the 30. I am really not a fan of the 44 housing swaps due to the cost and the fact in the end you have an axle that still uses the factory unit bearings, brakes, and has no lock out hubs. Most will spend $5k + on a built PR44 and I just don't see the value of it.

AirJordan613

Agreed. 35's, eaton e locker and 4.88s in my Dana 30. I don't abuse it and it hasn't abused me yet. I'm on stock axle shafts, no gussets, no sleeves. I usually try locking up the rear and if that doesn't get me through alone, I'll lock up the front as well