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Thinking of upgrading to a 4" lift

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Old 03-27-2012, 06:49 AM
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A of now I have a TF 2.5" coil lift with TF 9550 shocks, a TF front trackbar, and AEV control arm brackets. My long term goal is to run 37's after my 35" Duratracs wear out. What components would I need to upgrade my lift to a TF 4" flex-arm lift? Would my current TF shocks work? Would I have to completely remove/sell my current lift or is this a simple upgrade with just some additional parts needed? My driveshafts are stock if that matters.

08 2dr X 6spd

Last edited by XBlacky08X; 03-27-2012 at 06:53 AM.
Old 03-27-2012, 06:53 AM
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Originally Posted by XBlacky08X
A of now I have a TF 2.5" coil lift with TF 9550 shocks, a TF front trackbar, and AEV control arm brackets. My long term goal is to run 37's after my 35" Duratracs wear out. What components would I need to upgrade my lift to a TF 4" flex-arm lift? Would my current TF shocks work? Would I have to completely remove/sell my current lift or is this a simple upgrade with just some additional parts needed? My driveshafts are stock if that matters.
Easier to just sell off the lift and buy the 4. You will need longer travel shocks anyways unless those are the same length for a 4 inch. (don't think so) You can run stock driveshafts with 4 door manual. Might want to regear and get c gussets shafts for sure assuming d30. D44 front def c gussets and possibly shafts. Axle shafts might need replacing after awhile. Other than that I think that's it.
Old 03-27-2012, 07:16 AM
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My suggestion would be to reach out to Joe if he's lurking I believe that 4" on a 2dr will net almost 5 if not 5 easily. I know I did a 3 inch on a 2dr and it cleared 4" and 37s comfortably. The flex arm kit is quite nice. I have it on my 2.5 and it made a huge difference in itself. You will need both driveshafts if you go 4" on a 2dr. Brake lines and I would also recommend their steering flip. It made a huge difference in the 3" kit I installed. Im sure with 4 it will even moreso.
Old 03-27-2012, 07:54 AM
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How long do lifts typically last? I've had my 2.5" for about 10k miles now. If it is better to sell the 2.5" and buy a complete 4" kit, then I will probably wait a couple yrs.
Old 04-06-2012, 06:11 AM
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Teraflex your input is needed!

My mods are:
TF 2.5 coil lift with 9550 shocks
TF front adj trackbar
TF steering stabilizer
TF rear upper control arms
AEV front control arm brackets

Looking to upgrade to a TF 4" lift on a 2dr
Old 04-06-2012, 06:40 AM
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Man, if I were you knowing what I know know, I'd just add the rest of the control arms , trim your fenders, maybe extend your bumpstops abit and add a one in body lift to clear the 37's. That way you forego alot of other modifications and your driveshafts will last longer. Your handling will stay better at 2.5 than at 4 on a short arm and you won't need steering correction. Get some better shocks( fox, Elka, king) and I think you might be happier than if you were way up in the air and still run 37's .
Old 04-06-2012, 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by mkjeep
Man, if I were you knowing what I know know, I'd just add the rest of the control arms , trim your fenders, maybe extend your bumpstops abit and add a one in body lift to clear the 37's. That way you forego alot of other modifications and your driveshafts will last longer. Your handling will stay better at 2.5 than at 4 on a short arm and you won't need steering correction. Get some better shocks( fox, Elka, king) and I think you might be happier than if you were way up in the air and still run 37's .
^^^^^ This. ^^^^^
Old 04-06-2012, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by mkjeep
Man, if I were you knowing what I know know, I'd just add the rest of the control arms , trim your fenders, maybe extend your bumpstops abit and add a one in body lift to clear the 37's. That way you forego alot of other modifications and your driveshafts will last longer. Your handling will stay better at 2.5 than at 4 on a short arm and you won't need steering correction. Get some better shocks( fox, Elka, king) and I think you might be happier than if you were way up in the air and still run 37's .
I like my Bushwacker pocket flares and would prefer not to cut them. I also have a full front bumper, and heard I would have to get a stubby to clear 37s on my 2.5". Believe me I have thought about going this route, but am leaning towards just lifting the suspension more. I know I will have to get new driveshafts, which is fine because mine are on their way out. To clear 37s on a 2.5, I would need flat clears, a 1" body lift, stubby front bumper, etc, etc, etc.
Old 04-06-2012, 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by XBlacky08X
I like my Bushwacker pocket flares and would prefer not to cut them. I also have a full front bumper, and heard I would have to get a stubby to clear 37s on my 2.5". Believe me I have thought about going this route, but am leaning towards just lifting the suspension more. I know I will have to get new driveshafts, which is fine because mine are on their way out. To clear 37s on a 2.5, I would need flat clears, a 1" body lift, stubby front bumper, etc, etc, etc.
Just a personal opinion, if your gonna do a 4in on a 2dr, do a longarm if this is your DD. A 4dr can be abit more forgiving with a 4in shortarm, 2drs end up being jouncy.
Old 04-06-2012, 04:17 PM
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Originally Posted by mkjeep

Just a personal opinion, if your gonna do a 4in on a 2dr, do a longarm if this is your DD. A 4dr can be abit more forgiving with a 4in shortarm, 2drs end up being jouncy.
I heard the long arms aren't really necessary on the JK until 6" of lift, as the factory arms are long enough. Researched and most people says the flexarm kit rides great on a 2dr. I'm looking to maybe just getting the rest of the arms, as I already have the rear uppers. Was wondering if my AEV front control arm brackets would suffice, because I heard they are good until about 5" of lift.


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