Dirtman, how do you find the patience for these posts ? LOL I saw pics. of your new home and shop, exellent ! What does it take to get into that shop of yours and have you work wonders on my wagons suspension ? oh, and I have a pair of ARBs in the garage, and skid plates ?, and a bunch of other stuff ? lol

 

This is different for everyone. Some of the components in the stock axle just aren't designed for that load. Some people will blow through the tiny ball joints in less than a year and others will upgrade once and be done. It's not a matter of not wheeling hard and your good, it is a different formula for every jeep and every driving style (on road and off). Just know that moving to 38x14.5s open a whole new can of worms than the 35x12.5s would ever cause.

 

You don't need to wheel at all. One pothole or curb can be all it takes, as many previous posts here have indicated. (Not saying it's a huge widespread problem, but it happens.)

Stock tires, running up onto a curb at low speed to avoid an accident. And ... snap.

https://www.jk-forum.com/forums/stoc...e-help-161915/

Read through a few of the hundreds of threads on beefing up the front housing. Whether or not you put money into it is up to you, just a suggestion to at least have that research in your mind when you are deciding on your build, instead of 'nothing will happen if I stay on pavement...'

 

One of the biggest issues is that unless you are running 6"+ of lift you are going to need around a 3" bs wheel plus 1.5" adapter in order to half enough room to steer the rig. Its not a question of wheeling it is a simple matter of fitment. Ditto makes a 38x13.5 that is easier to fit and you will find people running 38's will run that tire because it is easier to fit.

 

Feel free to stop by, I still want a ride in that wagon. I am just off Timberline.

 

Thanks for the info! I continued to do some more reading last night and decided that if I'm. Going todo something like this I need to go the right way this time... Also didn't find a real good reason to run 38's (40's at this width) instead of just a 37/12.50. There is still beefing up I need to do for a 37 but I won't get me into the weird backspacing and spacers. I think I'm going ton stick with my 35's for now and get it geared properly. Then I'll go to a 37 so time in ten next year or so.

 

Gear for 37's since you plan to go there in the next year. 4.88

 

You don't see people running those tires for a reason, if you are going to do the work to fit 40's why not run 40's. The only advantage to run those tires is if you need the wide footprint for mud or snow flotation and you don't need as much gearing. 40's push the gearing on JK with the stock drivetrain.