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Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

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Old 01-13-2015, 06:59 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by JacKed 8

so virtually what we are saying is there are no solid ways of strengthening a D44 to withstand this weight? I have a fantastic metal fabricator who is willing to assist on this project. An axle swap has not been completely ruled out. I ran 37's on my D30 on my 2008 JKUS and never had any issues even with some mild wheeling. The additional weight per wheel/tire combo is not overwhelming so just interested to hear the major concerns and components that will likely fail the quickest.

Sam
It may be able to get by not offroad, but by the time you upgrade the stock axles you prolly could have put in even a used d60. If i saw a "show" jeep on 42 and stock axles id go wtf personally and really wonder about the whole build. My skills are not top notch and im still learning. Hell its my first build, but i was still able to do axles for relatively cheap after you figure in the sale of my old rubi axles.

The larger diameter is also a concern. Its like a bigger wrench on the same size bolt. You can get more leverage so to speak. Ive ripped stock link mounts off, bent shocks, axle flanges, worn out bjs, track bars, tie rods and much more on only 35s within a year. Yes that was with wheeling but still 42 is a lot bigger tire.

Last edited by Maertz; 01-13-2015 at 07:06 AM.
Old 01-13-2015, 07:01 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by JacKed 8
so virtually what we are saying is there are no solid ways of strengthening a D44 to withstand this weight? I have a fantastic metal fabricator who is willing to assist on this project. An axle swap has not been completely ruled out. I ran 37's on my D30 on my 2008 JKUS and never had any issues even with some mild wheeling. The additional weight per wheel/tire combo is not overwhelming so just interested to hear the major concerns and components that will likely fail the quickest. Sam
The additional weight is not overwhelming?? You're talking at least twice the weight in terms of wheels and tires. And then the diameter of the wheels and tires create significantly more force. The stock brakes won't be able to slow that beast down. I'd be surprised if the ball joints can even get the thing to safely drive straight. You'd need a supply of front hubs. I wouldn't leave the city lines without a couple spares. That's just the front. You'll eat rear wheel bearings for breakfast.

However, the greater issue here is that you need a crap ton more width than a stock axle if you even hope to be able to make a right or left turn. The further you offset the wheels, the faster everything on the axle blows up. The tires will eat the frame, grill, control arms. Basically everything.
Old 01-13-2015, 07:05 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
The additional weight is not overwhelming?? You're talking at least twice the weight in terms of wheels and tires. And then the diameter of the wheels and tires create significantly more force. The stock brakes won't be able to slow that beast down. I'd be surprised if the ball joints can even get the thing to safely drive straight. You'd need a supply of front hubs. I wouldn't leave the city lines without a couple spares. That's just the front. You'll eat rear wheel bearings for breakfast. However, the greater issue here is that you need a crap ton more width than a stock axle if you even hope to be able to make a right or left turn. The further you offset the wheels, the faster everything on the axle blows up. The tires will eat the frame, grill, control arms. Basically everything.
Sorry to clarify I was speaking weight on 37's vs 42's, not stock wheels/tires. All good info and appreciate the insight being provided. By no means am I looking to cut corners in areas that involve overall road safety. This will be driven quite a bit and I certainly want it to perform well.

Sam
Old 01-13-2015, 07:14 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by JacKed 8
Sorry to clarify I was speaking weight on 37's vs 42's, not stock wheels/tires. All good info and appreciate the insight being provided. By no means am I looking to cut corners in areas that involve overall road safety. This will be driven quite a bit and I certainly want it to perform well.

Sam
We are trying to be helpful - just not so great at the delivery of that insight, haha. Really though, for the price you can sell your stock axles for, you can almost build a set of 1 tons. Artec has a couple really great swap kits out that make it insanely easy to swap Super Duty axles in. You'll have the width and the Beef you need for about $1000 more than you sell your axles for. Sure, there is some work involved, but nothing you can't handle.
Old 01-13-2015, 07:15 AM
  #35  
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Op- just wanted to point out to you that your rubi d44 is only different than your old d30 because the ring and pinion and shafts are bigger. Housing, knuckles, ball joints are all the same as the d30.
Old 01-13-2015, 07:42 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Invest2m4
We are trying to be helpful - just not so great at the delivery of that insight, haha. Really though, for the price you can sell your stock axles for, you can almost build a set of 1 tons. Artec has a couple really great swap kits out that make it insanely easy to swap Super Duty axles in. You'll have the width and the Beef you need for about $1000 more than you sell your axles for. Sure, there is some work involved, but nothing you can't handle.
I've got thick skin especially on forums. I've been a member here for a long time and even with my absence I came back due to the wealth of knowledge that some of the members here provide. All good thoughts mentioned above and products that are worth looking at.

Sam
Old 01-14-2015, 10:30 AM
  #37  
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For the front axle you can:
By a Dynatrac Pro 44 housing (optional)
Sleeve
Truss
C gusset the Cs
RCV Axles
Dynatrac Ball joints
Teraflex 8 lug conversion (soon to be released)

Even then, things like the ball joints and unit bearings will wear and need replacement/rebuilding.

In the rear you can:
Truss
Upgraded shafts like RCV
Teraflex 8 lug full float conversion (soon to be released)


After that you can look into Jantz engineering to install Dana 50 gears into your 44 housing but I don't know the details on how that will work with everything else.

Add up all the money and time and you are getting really close to One ton axle territory.
Old 01-14-2015, 10:43 AM
  #38  
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Four words. Eight inch body lift. Thread closed.

Just buy three 3" body lifts and stack them. Problem solved.

Last edited by RubiKing; 01-14-2015 at 10:48 AM.
Old 01-14-2015, 10:52 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by RubiKing
Four words. Eight inch body lift. Thread closed. Just buy three 3" body lifts and stack them. Problem solved.
I would actually like to see this
Old 01-14-2015, 01:49 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by TreyJK
I would actually like to see this
I'm sure a body lift manufacturer would love to display a rig like that to show off their true capabilities.

Sam


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