Notices
Modified JK Tech Tech related bulletin board forum regarding subjects such as suspension, tires & wheels, steering, bumpers, skid plates, drive train, cages, on-board air and other useful modifications that will help improve the performance and protection of your Jeep JK Wrangler (Rubicon, Sahara, Unlimited and X) on the trail.

PLEASE DO NOT START SHOW & TELL TYPE THREADS IN THIS FORUM

Is there anything I'm missing or haven't thought of?

Thread Tools
 
Old 02-26-2010, 07:31 AM
  #11  
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
 
nclehmann's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,095
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by m(a)ce
I'm sure you've seen the TF write-up - definitely a good read.
Thanks. I've had it bookmarked from Day 1.

Originally Posted by m(a)ce
Have you looked at AEV Pro Cal vs. Pro Comp? I'm not too familiar with the Pro Comp but AEV has been solid for me for what it is. Superchips offers even more & might be worth waiting/saving for. Look here to read more positive praise for the Superchips.
I've heard of it and I'll look into it - it was either of the two and I think they are similarly priced. Thanks.

Originally Posted by m(a)ce
I have 'em and love 'em. They yield about 11.5" of travel.
I like OME products. I had their shocks on my TJ and was very happy with them.

Originally Posted by m(a)ce
I'm not sure how much travel the TF shocks have that come with this kit but it might be less. With that said two things to think about if the OME LT are noteably longer:

a. your brake lines. TF kit comes with brackets to drop the lines. This may or may not be enough for the OME LT shocks. You can test them as joe002 did in the write up to simulate flex. If its too close you can obviously add brakelines before you wheel it hard.
I'd rather not install longer brake lines - I don't want to bleed the lines and go through all that. I've never done it and would rather not. If I can get away with longer drop brackets or maybe get the standard OME shocks, it may be better. I'll have to look into that. Thanks again.

Originally Posted by m(a)ce
b. coil retention: TF comes with lower rear spring retainers. If you look @ the PDF instructions on the TF site they caution that if you add shocks that are a longer then 25" (full extended length) you should add a 1/2" rear upper spring guide. Maybe David @ Northridge or ARBSeth can confirm the length.
I can't imagine that they would be very expensive - aren't they poly or rubber? I can probably pick up a set of upper spring guides when I place the order.

Originally Posted by m(a)ce
3. control arms: . You'll be happy you budgeted the front lowers. Noticeable difference on the road. You might consider skipping the rear uppers (at least for now) and save that $ towards a tire carrier or put it to the programmer. From my understanding (which is limited! ) the rear uppers won't be necessary at this lift height on an unlimited.
Never thought of that. I was always focused with the 3" TF lift that never considered NOT getting the rear upper arms. If that's the case, I can easily save for a rear bumper - I'm looking at the Smittybilt XRC rear with tire carrier which is like $800.

Originally Posted by m(a)ce
Good luck on the build.
Thanks!
Old 02-26-2010, 07:47 AM
  #12  
JK Super Freak
 
m(a)ce's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Central NJ
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

You're welcome

Originally Posted by nclehmann
I'd rather not install longer brake lines - I don't want to bleed the lines and go through all that. I've never done it and would rather not. If I can get away with longer drop brackets or maybe get the standard OME shocks, it may be better. I'll have to look into that. Thanks again.
Depending on your use I'd also think about the TF shocks. I think they have a little more travel and allow for more flex I believe. BUT the OME ride sooo nice. Tough call.


Originally Posted by nclehmann
I can't imagine that they would be very expensive - aren't they poly or rubber? I can probably pick up a set of upper spring guides when I place the order.
Yeah they're pretty cheap. Maybe add a front spacer too if you see a front bumper/winch in your future. It will save you the hassle of dropping the coils out again.



Originally Posted by nclehmann
Never thought of that. I was always focused with the 3" TF lift that never considered NOT getting the rear upper arms. If that's the case, I can easily save for a rear bumper - I'm looking at the Smittybilt XRC rear with tire carrier which is like $800.

Check out this Smitty thread. Seems like they're fixing the issue. An alternative is the Or-Fab carrier, mine has been great so far. No bumper but prevents tailgate damage & runs like $530 bucks.
Old 02-26-2010, 07:51 AM
  #13  
JTG
JK Enthusiast
 
JTG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Orlando, Florida
Posts: 136
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

You can get away with the stock rear trackbar also, if that helps your case.
Old 02-26-2010, 08:35 AM
  #14  
JK Freak
 
JAM85's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Narcoossee Florida
Posts: 624
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I have that same lift and since I was on a budget I went with the kit with shocks and decided to use the rear track bar bracket that came with the kit and re used the stock rear trackbar, instead of replacing it with an adjustable one from tf. However, getting that bracket to line up perfectly took some serious finagling to get in to place and using a brand new track bar would of been much easier. Im also still running stock control arms with no problems at all. She feels a little loose at times but its nothing horrible. Nothing that any past jeep owners haven't experienced. If I ever add spacers or higher springs I will definitely go out and buy new tf control arms and a front track bar, but for now everything is great how it is. Just letting you know in case you might want to use some of that cash towards something else.
Old 02-26-2010, 09:33 AM
  #15  
JK Freak
 
phljeeper's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Philly Suburbs
Posts: 950
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes on 4 Posts
Default

You could go without the rear adjustable control arms and save a few dollars. The fronts are critical, but have not heard anyone have complaints about the rear. The 2.5" should be plenty for the 35's.
Old 02-26-2010, 09:34 AM
  #16  
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
 
nclehmann's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,095
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by m(a)ce
Check out this Smitty thread. Seems like they're fixing the issue. An alternative is the Or-Fab carrier, mine has been great so far. No bumper but prevents tailgate damage & runs like $530 bucks.
I've been following that thread too and was a little concerned about it. I looked at the Or-Fab carrier (was my first choice all along), but then started reading about rust problems. How has yours held up? It just seems a little flimsy on the hinge side - those stacked washers just don't give me the confidence I'm looking for in a $500+ product. I wish the tolerances were a bit tighter than that.

I've read the TF shocks are a bit harsher on the road than the OMEs. If I go with TF shocks, I can probably go with the 3" lift with the 2 flexarms, since TF gives them almost free as part of the package deal. But I think I'd rather have the OMEs for the ride comfort.
Old 02-26-2010, 09:35 AM
  #17  
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
 
nclehmann's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,095
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by chip80
If you are going to run 35s I hope you have at least 4.88 gears installed all ready. If not, you are going to need to regear.
4.10s with a 6-speed are fine for 35s. I've driven one and feels just fine. My daily commute is only 4 miles and I'm not on the highway for long stretches of time.

Thanks.
Old 02-26-2010, 09:38 AM
  #18  
JK Enthusiast
 
dgore2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Kearney, MO
Posts: 328
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Default

One thing I didn't see mentioned that you may want also...adjustable sway bar links. I'd buy a set for the rear and put the original rears on the front.
Old 02-26-2010, 09:44 AM
  #19  
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
 
nclehmann's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,095
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by dgore2
One thing I didn't see mentioned that you may want also...adjustable sway bar links. I'd buy a set for the rear and put the original rears on the front.
I think the TF 2.5" kit comes with longer rear links. The stock rears would go up front like you stated.
Old 02-26-2010, 09:47 AM
  #20  
JK Super Freak
Thread Starter
 
nclehmann's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Raleigh, NC
Posts: 1,095
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by phljeeper
You could go without the rear adjustable control arms and save a few dollars. The fronts are critical, but have not heard anyone have complaints about the rear. The 2.5" should be plenty for the 35's.
I think I'm going to do that! It'll save me $300. If I'm able to get all 5 tires mounted for $1200 like GoodysGotaCuda stated, I may be able to get both front and rear bumpers!!


Quick Reply: Is there anything I'm missing or haven't thought of?



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 12:05 AM.