MD5

After lot's of search, research, reading and questions I finally made some do-it-yourself maintenance and mod's

In the past days a professional welder had made some MIG made axle gusseting:
- JKS rear Trackbar brace
- ORE C2-Gusset
- Rock Krawler Weld On Front Trackbar Gusset Kit

Taday I made/installed the following:
- Transfer unit oil change
- D44 front and rear oil change + internal cleaning
- Riddler differential covers
- TeraFlex 2.5" with coils and shocks
- JKS Rear Trackbar

I was alone, started working at 8:15am
Except a quick lunch, I made a non stop job.
At 05pm I was too tired, I then stopped working.

To finish I need to install:
- TF front lower FlexArms
- JKS front Trackbar

And perform the required axle alignment and finishing touch like Diff breather extension etc.

During lift install I was confused about some steps, in the past I read zillion of discussion, notes and write-up about TF lift install. I was sure that everything required for a perfect install was learned but I made the mistake to leave the lift box closed without giving a look at the various components.

Now I'm looking for help and suggestion:


Image 1: Are the bolt, washers and nut inserted correctly ?



Image 2: Are the bolt, washers and nut inserted correctly ?



Is the Brake tube extension bracket installed correctly ?



I'm confused about the install sequence of the rubber bushing and metal washers in the upper front VS9550 shock, also the rubber bushing side are different.



Some rubbing between the brake tube and the shock

In the rear, I disconnected the two plastic clips that hold the ABS cable near the brake, do I need to reconnect them ? I really appreciate a photo with ABS cable routing near the brake.

And again, I kindly ask some photo of the front brake line from the bracket on frame to the caliper because with axle fully extended the tube seem a little short.

Thanking in advance for any help you can give.

Littlejon

On the rear upper sway bar mount you are going to want to install the bolt from the inside closest to the frame rail, and have your nut on the outside closest to the tire. I made the mistake of installing like you did originally, and the bolt will rub the frame and squeak like crazy under articulation.

On the lower mount I just reused the stock hardware, and didn't add any sort of extra washer since the factory nuts are designed with them built in.

The rear brake line extentions look good.

I used schick spacers with mine, so I am not 100% on the bushing situation, but I would assume you would use the metal washer on the shock, bushing, frame, bushing, second metal washer.

The front brake line does have some sort of foam like tube over it. I am not sure if it is for an abbrasion purpose, or what exactly, but that is normal.

MD5

Thanks for trying to help me!

REAR LINK:
Ok, I will reverse the upper mount bolt to leave the nut outside close to the tire.
About the washer, it's ok to use only one between the nut and the link ?

FRONT SHOCK
The washers+bushing install sequence is like you wrote
The following two pics come handy:
http://www.project-jk.com/wpg2?g2_itemId=105650
http://www.project-jk.com/wpg2?g2_itemId=105653

FRONT BRAKE LINE:
It seem that some front brake line stretch occour when the axle fully extend, I read the TF 2.5" install manual and no modification are required. Do you leave it as is ?

REAR RUBBER SPRING ISOLATOR:
The manual say the following:

"NOTE: Don’t forget to reuse the factory spring isolator. If the isolator is left out your ride height will be about a 1/2” lower in the rear. The isolator also helps dampen noise."

The TeraFlex kit include two 1/2" coil spacers, do I need to use it instead the factory one or use both like the following image ?
http://www.project-jk.com/wpg2?g2_itemId=105746

I suspect the my install manual is old, where to get the latest version since it appear not available on TF website ?

Littlejon

I would use the washer against the bolt to help spread the force over the bushing since that will be the part touching the bushing once you flip the bolt around.

On the front brake line I would bend the line downwards where it has the 90 degree angle right before the large padding. If you bend it down to about a 45 degree angle you should get enough out of it that your lines should be fine.

For the rear spring isolator, you should have the teraflex spacer, followed by the stock isolator, followed by the spring.

MD5

Thanks for your advice.

Just to be sure about bending downwards the brake line, you mean something like the green line in the following image ?

Littlejon

Exactly like the picture will get you enough slack in your lines.

MD5

Thanks for the information, really appreciated!